Savage Barrel Swap?

[strut64]

I have started to do a project to convert a savage to 6MM BR. I have written a list and need to review what tools are needed. So far my list includes a 1) wheeler nut wrench, 2) wheeler action wrench 3) Wheeler barrel vise. Do I need all three tools? I have seen but can't find the reference that indicated you can do it with just the nut wrench and barrel vise. Also, how tightly are the parts tightened at the factory or in other words how difficult will it be to get the old parts off. Conversely how tightly do they need to be remounted. My original purchase will be a barrel. I have put a Shilen stainless varmint on back order through Midway but the wait time on back order seems impossibly long. May be I should just by a factory 6BR I have not spent a dime yet. Hey, thanks in advance for the input for this newbee. My budget for this project is about 900 +or-.

 

[Terry]

You need the barrel vice and the nut wrench most of the time. I had one that required the action wrench as well.
Most come off easily. I torque mine to 50lb. You could do less.

 

[strut64]

Terry,
Thanks. I think what you note agrees with what I previously read. If need be an action wrench can be easily obtained, they are readily available. I am looking forward to building an accurate paper puncher and varminter. Most people recommend a 6 BR highly. I debated with myself about options such a 6 PPC or a 6.5 x 47. The next option will be twist. The barrel I have back ordered is an 8 twist.

 

[placek59]

I have never had a need for the action wrench. Just make sure that you don't put any force on the action as to not twist it. Clamp the barrel (wrapped with some drywall tape/paper is what I use) in the vise and a couple raps on the barrel nut wrench with a engineers hammer usually does it. Some barrels have been more stubborn than others and the blued ones are usually worse. The way I understand it is they are blued after assembly and the bluing can act as a 'loctite' of sorts. When reassembling, I torque mine to 35 ft lbs on the torque wrench which is actually closer to 50 when taking into account the distance of the force being applied from the point of rotation... You can google it and find much better explanation and calculator -- here's one
http://www.cncexpo.com/TorqueAdapter.aspx

As for twist rate- I would say the 8 twist is the way to go. You can shoot the heavies for paper and lighter weights for varmints too. I have a Lothar Walther barrel on mine and it shoots great! I don't think you can go wrong with a 6 br.

 

[Erik Cortina]

Don't forget the chamber gauges.

 

[Nomad47]

Don't forget the chamber gauges.

Yes, go gauges are a necessity for me although I have heard of guys using brass as a go gauge. I swap barrels 3 or 4 times every year using the barrel nut wrench and an action wrench. I also torque to 35 ft/lbs which is closer to 50 due to leverage as stated earlier.

 

[DogBuster]

Right tools for the job.........you will eventually need the action wrench...the barrel vise & nut wrench are a must..when you get these CM actions & barrels....they can be very stubborn..having a dremel and spare nut will be very helpful....along with a hair blow dryer to warm up the nut...soak the tough ones with Kroil over night...some of the newer nuts are knurl (less)...so a newer $50 wrench is required...OR...the Dremel & new nut...SS actions & barrels are always somewhat easier to take apart... a good solid bench is also a must either way.......Go gauges.?..brass is a more simple solution and less costly...FL size 3-4 pcs of your brass in your dies and use them to set headspace..in our varmint table guns we will also use a milled down shellholder...around 12-13 thousands under standard holder...but keep this modified SH separate from non milled SH for your factory guns...I bought my first Savage rifle on a dare 15 years or so ago...been screwing barrels on & off since then...latest two projects have been a 20 Practical & 20-222..rechambered tubes on Savage target actions....machined recoil lugs and machined nuts will also be a more complete job...or at least true the factory nut face up...

 

[strut64]

I had not talked about my complete list of tools and accessories but understand the need for headspace gauges, reloading dies, etc, etc, etc. I am probably several weeks/months away and will be getting stuff piecemeal as needed. The bif delay seems to be the barrel I have selected. I thank you all for the feedback. This should be fun but preplanning and knowledge should assure a successful result.

 

[MGYSGT]

Why didn't you look at Northland for a Critierion barrel?

Tom

 

[DogBuster]

Why didn't you look at Northland for a Critierion barrel?

Tom

Briggs @ Northland Shooters has a pretty good selection of tubes...

If not...its a 12-16 week wait to get a special order in...same as building

 

[strut64]

Notified that Midway shipped the Shilen barrel today. If you check the Midway site the part is still out of stock, but they must have gotten enough in the fill orders up to and including mine. Placed back order on 1/26 and shipped on 2/5. Less than 2 weeks. Maybe I just lucked out but the first piece is now on the way.

 

[missed]

They hired him to put the barrel nuts on at the factory. At least my last two savages took more to get the barrel nut off than I would have liked to use. I ended up with the action and barrel in the vice and beating on the pipe wrench to get it off. I was almost going to cut the barrel nut off when it broke loose. This was also after a soaking in Kroil and heating the barrel nut. My last two had loctite.

 

[5spd]

I have done at least 12 swaps using my just the barrel wrench and a standard bench vice w/homemade oak wood blocks cut to fit the barrels, electrical tape for protection and a rubber mallet & or 2lb peen hammer on some of them.
They have a few 328 lb Russian woman that tighten them. Spray some wd40 or like wise stuff on the nut & let soak then go to work.
When I bought my last CBI from NSS I did get his action wrench (sale) & have made my own barrel vice.

 

[DogBuster]

They hired him to put the barrel nuts on at the factory. At least my last two savages took more to get the barrel nut off than I would have liked to use. I ended up with the action and barrel in the vice and beating on the pipe wrench to get it off. I was almost going to cut the barrel nut off when it broke loose. This was also after a soaking in Kroil and heating the barrel nut. My last two had loctite.

No...that guy ain't big enough....Try breaking a nut loose on a 1964 CM Savage 110....yept....used a Dremel.........

 

[Nomad47]

I guess I got lucky. KMart & I broke my 12 BVSS nut loose for the first time with just the action wrench and a torque wrench attached to the barrel nut wrench.
I just did two barrel swaps last week. Did them on my portable shooting bench with just the action & barrel nut wrenches.
By the way, I cut a notch in my action wrench so I don't have to remove my 20MOA pic rails when swapping barrels.

 

[Hover Sniper]

I'm having my Savage rebarreled with a Krieger and my smithy used a barrel vise and a Remington action wrench (fit perfectly), didn't have to mess with the nut at all, came right off. We were both surprised, but Savage doesn't lock tight their action like Remington does.