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Savage 12 - Rebarreling

lazyMlazyK

Silver $$ Contributor
I removed the .22-250 barrel from my Savage 12 action, and noticed that the action seems to be staked where the action is recessed to mate with the recoil lug. I'll be getting a precision-ground lug from NSS in the next couple of weeks. Should I file this high spot on the action down? Wait to see how it fits with the aftermarket recoil lug first?
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My Savage 10 has no recess, but a drilled hole and a roll pin through the recoil lug to hold it in place during fitting.
 
when you get your new lug you’ll see that no modification is needed . You will need to have a fixture to align the lug . The new lug is flat with no projection to align it . Hope this makes sense , no coffee yet .
 
if the stake pushes on the lug causing it to not go flush, be sure to file, or just go ahead and remove it and be done with it,,, file it off and be done with it, it serves no purpose
 
If the lug you're getting has the locator tab, just make sure it fits flush and the tab doesn't bottom out in the receiver notch.
On Savages with a replacement Remington-style lug, I fill the notch with JB Weld and sand it to match the receiver contour. Works well and eliminates a problem area when bedding. -Al
 
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I’ve rebarreled quite a few Savage model 12s and I have never saw one staked like that. All had the slot.
 
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The alignment pin on the lug may not bottom out on the staked area. I'd wait until you get your new lug and go from there. If it does, a few light passes with a jeweler's file and you should be good to go.
 
Thanks guys. I think I'll wait to do anything until the new lug comes in, then see if I need to file it. Would it pay to square the face of the action?
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It might help (that photo looks pretty bad), but my experience with Savages is that there's no good reference datum from which to base any "squaring up" process. With the floating-head bolt, the raceway is no good, and there is usually considerable run-out between the outer body of the action and the threads. If it were me, I'd just clean up those chatter marks with a granite plate and start with 320 grit wet-or-dry or so, working up to whatever grit your're willing to put the effort into.

With Savage, I've found that just adding a decent barrel and letting the nut/barrel/lug system take up the slack usually results in a decent shooter.
 
I replace the stamped recoil lug with an aftermarket ground recoil lug.
I replace the old barrel nut headspace system with a shoulder I cut on the new barrel.
 

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Thanks guys. I think I'll wait to do anything until the new lug comes in, then see if I need to file it. Would it pay to square the face of the action?

Just my opinion here. I can't see spending the money to square up the face. When you start getting into machine work on a Savage, it's money you'll never get back. I'd rather start out with something like a Bighorn Origin (for $875) and go from there.

I tore apart a 12FV 8-10 years ago and re-barreled it into a .260 Rem using a Criterion bull barrel w/ lug. This was my budget build to learn bedding and barrel swaps. I bedding the barreled action in a B&C Varmint/Tactical stock. It was a hammer. The weak link on Savages are the triggers and extraction.
 

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