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Savage 12 pillar bedding

Putting together a Savage 12 target action, factory 4.4" br stock. Bought the stock off the classifieds here (great transaction) and noticed the pillars are approximately .030 lower than the wood laminated stock. It hasn't been previously bedded, so it has me confused. I was under the impression that the action should rest on the pillars even if only a fractional amount. Should I relieve the action area so that I can bed it with the action resting on the pillars, or just set it in, torque it and try it? Thanks for any help..rsbhunter
 
Most guys bed on top of the pillars since the epoxy will shrink and leave your action on pillars only. Of course there are those thats never seen this so there is that
 
Well, I was of the belief that the purpose of the pillars was for a contact point that wouldn't "crush" or compress, there by giving a stable and repeatedly solid point....so I would need to relieve the stock to make the pillars the high point by maybe .030- .050 to provide that contact point....rsbhunter
 
With out doing a whole lot of dremel work on your stock why not try to epoxy a couple of washers to the top of the pillar to raise it up.
I would think JB weld would hold them in place while also provide the support you are looking to achieve.
Back yard mechanics I know but you will never know unless you try.
 
True, I use Devcon steel to bed, so I could use that also..I'm going to try it plain after barrel work is done. If it needs, then I'll look into bedding....rsbhunter
 
Can the pillars be "moved" in the stock? Like with a punch and hammer?
Action should be bolted SOLID on the pillars.
Best to remove or move the pillars "up" so metal to metal contact between the pillar and action.
 
Torque on the action screws can make a huge of difference how one of these stocks shoot
 
I know people that actually make their pillars only 1/4” or so then pour the rest in place with their bedding compound making one solid pillar from the screw/floorplate to the bottom of the action that never shrinks leaving the action sitting only on the pillars after a year or so. Some of that trick bedding that results from testing your work over time not just for a week.
 
Been there, done this before.
More or less what Dusty said.
The epoxy on top of the pillar will serve as an "extension" on the top and it'll be the same as if the pillars were the correct height.
.030 should be thick enough so that it won't just crack away.

Difference is while you'd normall use release agent on top of and inside the pillars, you need to rough up the top of the pillar, and degrease it because you WANT it to adhere.

Same thing goes with the bottom metal if the pillar is short on the bottom as well.
 

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