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Sandbag ski ideas?

I have come to realize that one of the major limitations in my F-open set up is the sandbag ski that came with the PDC stock that I use. Right now it is a .6 inch wide piece of aluminaum that is very awkward shaped. I have never been able to get it to track consistently. A buddy of mine offered to machine a new one up for me so I was wondering what you guys would do for an F-open rifle. I was either thinking a 1",1.5", or 2" wide flat plate as the ski. I also plan to order a custom bag from Protektor to fit the ski. Here is a picture of the skeleton of the stock for reference. The stock has a tendency to sit quite high on rest and bags so I am trying to low pro it as much as possible. As an added note, my friend doing the work has access to machines to pretty much produce any design simple or radical. So if you have a radical idea please do share it!
Thanks,
Justin
 
Are you shooting free recoil or do you have some shoulder into the hold?
My reason for asking is that it appears to me that moving the "ski" forward a couple of inches so that you eliminate any chance for rear bag interference with the butt plate might help some.
A stiffer/firmer well lubricated rear bag might also help.
 
I use very light shoulder. Ive tried using it at every position and it is just not working for me. I just figure its time for something more optimum since my friend can make it. Its also makes the rifle ride much higher than I would like.
 
OK, plan B ....
Mill the "ski" down to achieve the height you'd like, then install a thin sheet of UHMW material on the bottom of the "ski". You could use these screws http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/231108267272?lpid=82 to mount the UHMW - just gotta make sure the piece you use to cover the bottom of the "ski" is thick enough to handle the counter sink heads on the metal screws.
I'm told that you can also get UHMW in tape form, but I haven't used that myself.
 
Do they make a completely different buttstock? There isnt much room to alter anything.If you remove the ski make one out of nylon or some other exotic plastic.How is the cheekweld on that type of stock?
 
The cheek weld is good as the cheek piece is completely adjustable I just don't have it installed in the picture. I was thinking of either having the bottom of the butt plate cut off to allow clearance of a new ski or just having the new ski double the length or so and extend much further forward. Do you guys have any suggestions on width?
 
I would use Delrin (Acetal) as it is very stiff and has good lubricity. I have no experience with UHMW, only acetal. Steer clear of nylon as it is very hygroscopic and will warp easily.

Remove the existing ski block and cut off the bottom of the adjustable butt plate so it won't be in the way. Could have your buddy make a thin stainless plate to provide a little extra support to the acetal bar of your choosing - thus making it easily replaceable should want to change thicknesses.

Good luck!
 
dmoran, that is what I was thinking.

smoooth, I'm not sure on the cost of Delrin but I am definitely going to look into it. I have plenty of scrap steel and a big enough piece of aluminum for the job as well. I know my friend works with Delrin at work a lot so he is no stranger to it. I will run it by him. Also, should I just go for a flat plate or have him make a wedge so that it contacts the bag ears? IE to help with torque and tracking?
 
eric32 said:
Give Craig a call and ask him to make you a new piece
Well that would make it wayyy to easy. haha. I considered that as Craig is great to work with but I already have material and a friend willing to make any piece free of charge.
 
Cool best of luck I would try a circlular piece of aluminum and make it have a slight tilt for fine elevation adjustments
 
Delrin is more expensive than acetal but essentially the same product, the name is what you are paying for. Acetal is fairly inexpensive and easy to come by, it comes in black or white (natural/neutral) and many shapes.

As to the style, you could easily make a flat and a wedge type to fit your bag better and be able to switch them out with just a couple screws. Heck, you could make a full round bar or 1/2 round bar, too, and do serious performance testing.

Good luck!
 
I think that's what we're going to do. He has one prototype finished and we're going to test that and go from there.
 

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