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Same reamer for chamber and dies?

mattri

Silver $$ Contributor
Sorry for the rudimentary question but is a full length sizing die cut with the same reamer used to cut the chamber?

Have read that the die needs to be slightly (.02ish) undersized in all dimensions, is that accurate?

Have also read that ppl ask their smith to cut a die with the chamber reamer.

If using the chamber reamer where does one source the die blank?

Thanks, Matt.
 
My reamer sets have included rough/finish/sizing reamers.
But, the only reamers used for chambering and Wilson dies so far have been the finish reamers.
My guess is they have drilled beforehand.

For body/bump sizing: redding body dies, or custom, either JLC precision made to my fired cases.
JLC has not used my reamers, and I don't know how they make dies, but they've been perfect so far.
 
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Could you make a sizing die with a chambering reamer by cooling the reamer in a refridgerator and warming the die blank? The reamer has shrunk a bit and the die blank has expanded a bit and once they die is back to room temp and smaller, maybe it might work.
 
When you order dies from someone like JGS you would order both a sizing reamer and a finish/chamber reamer. There's more than just 'shrinking it' that needs to occur when making a sizing reamer. It's not always a proportional reduction. Some angles and dimension need to be taken down more or less and people like JGS and Manson are experts in knowing which are which.

The downside is normal you only need to use the sizing reamer once so it can be expensive which is why it usually makes more sense to either check with some gunsmiths to see if they already have one that will work for your chamber OR go to a service like https://4drentals.com/ as well. They can send a reamer to your gunsmith.
 
Great replies, thanks to all.

So if my smith does not have a reamer for a die I just get the chamber print from him and send it plus a few fired rounds to a custom die.maker and they make the appropriate adjustments accordingly?
 
Could you make a sizing die with a chambering reamer by cooling the reamer in a refridgerator and warming the die blank? The reamer has shrunk a bit and the die blank has expanded a bit and once they die is back to room temp and smaller, maybe it might work.
The reamer would warm up pretty fast as well as the die blank cooling off once the actual cutting/ reaming operation began. The process u describe is usually used for assembly of bushings n bearings. They have to be assembled very quickly due to the transfer of temps one to another.
 
Years ago, Stan Ware made a f.l. die for my 17 Javelina using the chamber reamer. He bored a Newlon die body to .500. I.D., chambered a piece of round stainless with the chamber reamer, turned the O.D. of the chambered piece to .503 and pressed it into the die body. Decapping was a seperate step. It worked very well. :)

He would remind me of it now and again.
"Don't ever b-l-a-n-k-i-n-g ask me to do another one for you, Nyhus!" :D
 
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I know he catches a lot of flack but the easy button is to call Dave at PTG. They make a big percentage of the reamers used by most of the die makers, like redding, rcbs, hornady etc. The value in this is he knows the reamer dimensions for the dies from most if not every major die maker. HUGE resource right there!

I started spec'ing my chamber reamers around readily available, usually Redding type s bushing dies, a long time ago, maybe 15 years or so IIRC. Now we can debate the value of custom dies later but a sizing die has a very basic job to do and the issue of most importance and the subject of this thread is essentially the dimensions of whatever sizer die and how it works with your chamber's dimensions.

I found that a die that is .003 smaller than the chamber reamer works great. We can split hairs but a .003 under die will typically yield ppc/br/grendel etc brass that is about .0005-.0006 smaller at the .200 line and about .0015 or so smaller at the shoulder, with brass that has a few moderate to pretty ghot loads on them. The reason that a .003 under die yields different number top and bottom as well as not .003, is simply springback of the brass. The brass at the .200 is thicker and harder than the shoulder area, of course.

Again, we can split hairs all day but this is a number that just works and the whole principle of spec'ing chamber reamer to work with off the shelf dies is just golden, IMHO. And it just makes a ton of sense to me. The only downside is IF the die maker changes their dimensions at some point, by some small amount. But if ya think about it, it's not a big deal, you're just back to a custom die, but we're talking a pretty extreme change as well as it being pretty rare too. I have had it happen with grendel dies. Some engineer decided they needed to be .0005 small, likely due to gas guns, but in the end, I think it added a whopping .0001 smaller at the .200 line, which was not a bad thing and far from what I'd deem as over working the brass.

I go a tad tighter on dies for bigger cartridges, hunting rifles and gas guns but not much at all.
I personally see no value in spec'ing chamber reamers around virgin brass dimensions. That was a trend several years back and the custom die makers loved it because you pretty much had to go custom then and that whole idea just caused problems and IME did not cure of help anything at all.

I'm reasonably sure this info is available from most reamer makers if you ask but I've either used Kiff or extrapolated my own numbers when using a different reamer maker that I go this route on. The beauty is how simple it is and negates the biggest reason for spending the money on the often long wait time for a custom...but you can still go custom, now or later if ya choose to, for whatever reason.

I'm just sharing this because it has worked so well for me and the simplicity of doing it this way. Sure, you can fudge the numbers to your own satisfaction or idea of what they should be but these numbers just work, and as Tooley would say, they don't make the phone ring. Lol! It's up to you what you do with this info but it's good info imho and it didn't cost you a thing either way. I do encourage this method be tried but like so many other things in this game, if it's different than what some do, it can't possibly work, right? Lol!
 
I found that a die that is .003 smaller than the chamber reamer works great. We can split hairs but a .003 under die will typically yield ppc/br/grendel etc brass that is about .0005-.0006 smaller at the .200 line
It's probably me missing reading, but how can a sizing die that is only 0.003 smaller than a chamber reamer dimensions result in a case sized down @ the .200 line that is 0.005-0.006 smaller than the chamber? Maybe unfired case smaller than chamber??

Without any spring back tolerance at all, wouldn't the most it could reduce size be 0.003 smaller than the chamber reamer? Now if the size reamer was 0.003 under new case .200 line. I thought most custom sizing dies were spec'd to be a couple thou? under the brand of new case spec @ the .200 line. I certainly could be mis-remembering. I am not stating this as I "know" it to be true from experience but instead, I recall it being discussed extensively when many were getting clickers on PRC cases within a few loadings.

IIRC, it was a combo of the brass spec vs chamber and die all at the base/.200 line. IIRC, Alex Wheeler was the first to address it. I think there was a similar issue with the norma magnum cases specifically from ADG Alex also addressed with a reamer/die spec change?? Again, going off memory, I think it was the goal to be around 0.004-0.005 clearance between chamber and new/sized brass @ 0.200 ref line?
 
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I know he catches a lot of flack but the easy button is to call Dave at PTG. They make a big percentage of the reamers used by most of the die makers, like redding, rcbs, hornady etc. The value in this is he knows the reamer dimensions for the dies from most if not every major die maker. HUGE resource right there!

I started spec'ing my chamber reamers around readily available, usually Redding type s bushing dies, a long time ago, maybe 15 years or so IIRC. Now we can debate the value of custom dies later but a sizing die has a very basic job to do and the issue of most importance and the subject of this thread is essentially the dimensions of whatever sizer die and how it works with your chamber's dimensions.

I found that a die that is .003 smaller than the chamber reamer works great. We can split hairs but a .003 under die will typically yield ppc/br/grendel etc brass that is about .0005-.0006 smaller at the .200 line and about .0015 or so smaller at the shoulder, with brass that has a few moderate to pretty ghot loads on them. The reason that a .003 under die yields different number top and bottom as well as not .003, is simply springback of the brass. The brass at the .200 is thicker and harder than the shoulder area, of course.

Again, we can split hairs all day but this is a number that just works and the whole principle of spec'ing chamber reamer to work with off the shelf dies is just golden, IMHO. And it just makes a ton of sense to me. The only downside is IF the die maker changes their dimensions at some point, by some small amount. But if ya think about it, it's not a big deal, you're just back to a custom die, but we're talking a pretty extreme change as well as it being pretty rare too. I have had it happen with grendel dies. Some engineer decided they needed to be .0005 small, likely due to gas guns, but in the end, I think it added a whopping .0001 smaller at the .200 line, which was not a bad thing and far from what I'd deem as over working the brass.

I go a tad tighter on dies for bigger cartridges, hunting rifles and gas guns but not much at all.
I personally see no value in spec'ing chamber reamers around virgin brass dimensions. That was a trend several years back and the custom die makers loved it because you pretty much had to go custom then and that whole idea just caused problems and IME did not cure of help anything at all.

I'm reasonably sure this info is available from most reamer makers if you ask but I've either used Kiff or extrapolated my own numbers when using a different reamer maker that I go this route on. The beauty is how simple it is and negates the biggest reason for spending the money on the often long wait time for a custom...but you can still go custom, now or later if ya choose to, for whatever reason.

I'm just sharing this because it has worked so well for me and the simplicity of doing it this way. Sure, you can fudge the numbers to your own satisfaction or idea of what they should be but these numbers just work, and as Tooley would say, they don't make the phone ring. Lol! It's up to you what you do with this info but it's good info imho and it didn't cost you a thing either way. I do encourage this method be tried but like so many other things in this game, if it's different than what some do, it can't possibly work, right? Lol!
I haven’t had the bad luck with ptg like others have and Kiff has made some very nice reamers for me and alway helpful on the phone.
Wayne
 

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