?salvaging over annealed brass

[lpreddick]

i am awaiting an annealing machine as i have always used a propane torch, spinning the case in a drill and guessing the time and have had good results, not perfect. i tried a torch using MAPP gas...this thing is HOT!!! 2- 4 sec and you can glow the neck if flame is too vigorous. reduce the intensity and i can bring the neck just short of glowing. glow and the crush test is positive. just curious, can these over annealed necks be salvaged by "working" the necks...bushing size them .002, then expand, then bushing again, maybe a few times, then load with a reduced load and shoot. one or two cases, no big deal, but if one has several i hate throwing away otherwise good brass, esp if only shot 1-2 times.

 

[dkhunt14]

Yes it will harden them. Make sure you didn't get them too hot at base. I use Mapp in my machine and for Dasher with .010 wall I only need around 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 second. Matt

 

[tenring]

Yes it will harden them. Make sure you didn't get them too hot at base. I use Mapp in my machine and for Dasher with .010 wall I only need around 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 second. Matt

 

[tenring]

I use MAPP gas with cordless screwdriver also. Keep flame tip about 3/4" away from neck. As soon as I see the orange heat move to the shoulder - about 6 seconds, I drop it in the pan below.

 

[Marksman63]

I think issues are in not annealing at all.
Over annealing is not a big problem

http://www.nlrc.org/index_htm_files/Ryan Stevenson - Technical Paper.pdf

 

[dkhunt14]

When you over anneal the body gets soft and sticking in the chamber usually occurs. They don't have the ability to spring back after firing. Matt

 

[LHSmith]

Two (2) things that I KNOW from loading thousands of PPC and 30 BR rounds.......#1/It is very easy to over-anneal ( I read that if the heat was high enough...nothing short of re-smeltering the brass could bring it back) and one whose been in the game awhile can determine over-anneal pretty quick. #2/ Cracking from turning into the shoulder is non-existent in either cartridge....at least when using Lapua brass.

 

[LHSmith]

Concludes what I have been preaching all along....precise temp and dwell time is the key.....if you can't control the two -you're doing more damage (accuracy -wise) than good. IMHO an annealing machine is the only means to get there.

 

[Killshot]

A socket and a torch are great tools - to ruin your brass.

The makers of every annealing machine specifically state to NOT use MAPP gas, it burns far too hot.

If you see casenecks glow orange, they're overdone. Experience and a good infrared temp gun (the cheap ones won't read on brass) are essential.