Safe to shoot with zero headspace?

[Glocksig]

So I just finished loading 300 rounds of 6mm Remington for an upcoming prairie dog trip and when I chamber the new rounds I get resistance on the close. Pop them out and you can see a couple horizontal lines on the shoulder, from rubbing when the bolt cams over and locks. In a senior moment I forgot to run the brass through my chamber after I prepped it. I've always neck sized but it finally looks like the shoulder has to be bumped back a bit.

My question is this, can I safely fire these rounds in an essentially "zero" headspace condition or do I need to pull them all and bump them back a bit?

Thanks :-[

 

[josebd]

You should be fine,I resize mine so it's .002-003 longer,it has a little resistance when closing bolt

 

[spclark]

I think they'll be fine.

Using your bolt as a "sizing press handle" isn't something you want to do as a general rule.

What you describe is VASTLY BETTER than loading cases that have gone untrimmed too long that then need a forcible shove to get chambered. Nobody needs a hammer to open a bolt, certainly ought not need one to close it either. :

 

[CatShooter]

They are fine.

"0" head space keeps the cases from stretching.

 

[justpassinthru]

If it's only minor resistance you should be fine, but I certainly wouldn't want to damage the mating surface of the lugs or the action.
If you have a bushing type full length die, I believe you could remove the bushing and bump the shoulder without pulling the bullets.

 

[ireload2]

If you are shooting a large quantity at one sitting take a long a little lubriplate or similar grease.
I shot a lot of ammo through a M700 Varmint rifle that was tight and galled my locking lugs because my bolt was dry and clean.

Otherwise you can use a RCBS trim die or a body die to bump the shoulder of the loaded ammo back. I have no idea what will happen to your neck alignment though.

 

[Glocksig]

Thanks for the replies, love this forum.

 

[amlevin]

If you are shooting a large quantity at one sitting take a long a little lubriplate or similar grease.
I shot a lot of ammo through a M700 Varmint rifle that was tight and galled my locking lugs because my bolt was dry and clean.

Otherwise you can use a RCBS trim die or a body die to bump the shoulder of the loaded ammo back. I have no idea what will happen to your neck alignment though.

Better yet take a small tube of anti-sieze like that sold at Auto Parts stores for Spark Plug threads.

If you have to put that much pressure on the bolt lugs to fully chamber the round regular bolt grease will come up short in preventing galling. ESPECIALLY if you have a Stainless Steel Action.

 

[CatShooter]

If you are shooting a large quantity at one sitting take a long a little lubriplate or similar grease.
I shot a lot of ammo through a M700 Varmint rifle that was tight and galled my locking lugs because my bolt was dry and clean.

Otherwise you can use a RCBS trim die or a body die to bump the shoulder of the loaded ammo back. I have no idea what will happen to your neck alignment though.

Better yet take a small tube of anti-sieze like that sold at Auto Parts stores for Spark Plug threads.

If you have to put that much pressure on the bolt lugs to fully chamber the round regular bolt grease will come up short in preventing galling. ESPECIALLY if you have a Stainless Steel Action.

It there is "0" headspace, there is no pressure on the lugs.

I shoot most of my cases a few thou long, and I never have problems with lugs.

 

[bigedp51]

CatShooter

It appears opinions vary, I was taught to lube my lugs and not lube my cases. (sorry but opinions do vary)

Bolt Maintenance Methods & Materials
Proper Cleaning and Lubrication Ensures Bolt Reliability and Long Life
by Germán A. Salazar, Contributing Editor
http://www.accurateshooter.com/technical-articles/bolt-maintenance-methods-materials/

BOLT Lubrication

Like any piece of machinery subjected to high pressure and cyclical movement, the bolt needs lubrication. There are three main areas on a typical bolt that need lube: the locking lugs, the cocking cam, and the extraction cam.

1. The Rear Surface of the Locking Lugs

There are two lugs on most bolts, three or four lugs on some actions. Wipe these clean with a paper towel before re-applying the lube. Dab a little of the grease on the tip of the small screwdriver and spread it on the lugs. This should be a thin, even coat. Just thick enough to cover the metal but not globbed on. This picture shows the lugs wiped clean before lubing. A locking lug recess cleaning tool such as Sinclair Int’l offers is useful to ensure that any grit and bits of brass that collect in the receiver’s lug recesses get cleaned out.


Benchrest Central
Thread: Very Best Bolt Lug Grease
http://benchrest.com/showthread.php?84175-Very-Best-Bolt-Lug-Grease

Greasing and lubricating your M1 Garand
http://www.garandgear.com/m1-garand-grease

And then there is those who say to run your AR15 "wet".
AR Lube Advice From The Experts
http://www.rifleshootermag.com/rifles/ar-15/ar-lube-advice-from-the-experts/

CatShooter......never say never.

And in my opinion and especially anyone who neck sizes only should keep their locking lugs greased.

 

[CatShooter]

CatShooter

It appears opinions vary, I was taught to lube my lugs and not lube my cases. (sorry but opinions do vary)

I clean my actions (when necessary) by flushing them with break cleaner, and then spraying with G-96. I do not leave them "dry"

It is all they have ever needed. One of my oldest Rem actions is on it's 6th barrel, and the lugs are fine - if they needed grease, I would grease them... but so far, they have not.

If it works, then it ain't broke!!

Why are there so many religious rituals surrounding shooting and guns?

And why does straying from the rituals (and incantations that go with them) bring the wrath of self made gods (little "g"), instead of better understanding of the processes we use.

 

[FatBoy]

For several years I loaded all my 308win brass just neck sized with Lee collet die. No issues what so ever.

I FL size everything now that I shoot from a sling 99% of the time. I will not deal with a stiff bolt lift or a catching of the bolt at the camming point as it breaks me down over time and makes it harder to keep a good NPA over the course of fire.

Didn't do any damage to my rifle(s) but the palm of my hand is a different story

 

[CPorter]

Only if there is really "0" head space will there be zero initial force on the bolt lugs. The op reported resistance so there is slightly negative head space and there will be whatever force was necessary to size the case in the camber on the lugs. Also the lugs will help distribute the force of the charge going off and the rearward movement of the bolt.

 

[Eddie Harren]

Glocksig, send Jim Kelbly a PM and ask him what they think about putting grease on your lugs. Every BR shooter, that I know, puts grease, of some sort, on their lugs and cocking cam surface. Don't risk galling your lugs by listening to less than professional advice. You will get it straight from the manufacturers mouth if, you ask the people who make the actions. Remember, not everyone who posts here is an actual expert.

 

[LHSmith]

Another bit of poor advice is to spray brake cleaner into an action (which I hope is never done with the action still in the stock). That's what action cleaning tools, and chamber swabs are for. Too much chance of getting crap into the trigger.
I find it hard to believe a veteran shooter, especially one who delved in Benchrest (capital "B") does not keep his action lubed. At a match, one simply does not go to the line without his bolt lube. I often wonder why our experiences are worlds apart?

 

[Eddie Harren]

Different set of physical laws apply to some. Your results may vary.

 

[FatBoy]

Benchrest is one thing, hunting and/or field shooting is a other. Grease invites sand to stick to your lugs and possibly bolt face which can render a rifle inoperable until cleaned. Not everyone shoots from a pristine range and God forbid you get into a life or death situation and have a malfunction.

You can't compare a glued in BR rifle to a field rifle. I grease the lugs in my match rifles but I don't on any of my hunting rifles. They get a light coat of oil or drylube. Not even enough to wet my finger when touched after it's applied.

To each their own but not all applications are universal.

 

[Eddie Harren]

FatBoy, all things in moderation. I've hunted in all sorts of weather conditions from ice/freezing rain to 100+ degree and blowing dust. No one suggested gobbing on the grease.

 

[Erik Cortina]

Take some grease with you for the lugs and order a F/L sizing die and when you resize your brass next time bump the shoulder back .002" or just enough to give you smooth bolt operation and use it EVERY TIME from now on. Neck sizing will only cause you issues like it did now.

 

[justpassinthru]

If the op is planning to force the bolt closed on 300 cases that should have had the shoulder bumped, there had better be some grease in there.
Even that may not prevent damage, depending on how tight it is.
Only he can make that call.