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Sabots in 30-30

Worked with them a lot 20 plus yrs ago . Primary is loading the bullet in the sabot , flat base is best from memory , the bullet must be seated straight . I used a rigged setup to check runout . Then there's loading the sabot with no or min run out . I tried powders from pistol to rifle . I was also using a 30-30 for testing . 4198 and reduced 4895 worked but only if the bullet to sabot to case runout was min . I tried corn starch , baby powder , graphite etc ,trying to get uniform release of bullet from sabot .
It also pays to weigh the sabot . After you shoot try locating the sabot , a tarp in front of the muzzle helps , this is to ensure uniform release of the bullet . The distance of the release varies , velocity and twist will determine how well it releases the bullet and how far from the muzzle .
Getting a 2" group at 100" was a good group . Always a flyer .
 
I remember the Remington Accelerators, and I've never heard of anyone ever being able to get them to shoot.

Now in a muzzle loader, both with Triple 7 and in my smokeless ML I've used sabots to good effect.
 
Remember slug guns are designed to use a sabot. Those bolt action browning, Mossberg and savage sluggers are pretty respectable as a deer gun. Brural on the shoulder though. The muzzle loaders have the sabot already sitting in the rifling and then they get the extra gas seal when shot. Those accelerator sabot have to make a jump and force themselves into rfiling designed for lead and copper. Unless u are capturing the sabot for inspection u really have no way of know just how they are meshing with your rifle.
 
Found them to be twist rate sensitive and pushed them FAST. Had my best results with a faster twist 30 cal barrel. Looked liked fun, never grouped better than a few inches at 100. Heavy bullets would not hit a paper plate.

Try the shortest bullet you can find. Was shooting 52 grain flat based bullet.
 

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