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S/S Media Polishing ISSUE !!!

I tumble my cases for 1 to 1 hr 15 minutes and they come out squeeky clean. No problems with S S pins being stuck in the case or flash holes. I have wondered about all the varying times.
 
BaconFat said:
Anyway, the extra effort of drying both the cases and the SS media is kind of making me feel this method is more trouble than it's worth.

I put absolutely no effort into drying the cases. They get cleaned long before I need them for loading and nature does most of the job of drying. If I'm going to anneal right away, that process takes care of the drying.
 
For large quantities of brass, especially range pickup .223 or .308, there is simply no better method than SS Tumbling.
Cleaning 200 at a time of .223 is no sweat and they look fantastic when they come out.

Sure, once in awhile you will get some pins stuck in the flash hole. That take 2 seconds to remedy and you're good.

I let mine dry on a paper towel and within 24-48 hours, they're good to go.

I feel it is much cleaner than walnut/corncob tumbling. No dust, just some dirty water and it doesn't get all over the place like the media does. I think it is a bit quieter too and all you need to refresh every once in a blue moon is your supply of Dawn and Lemishine with your local Walmart carries.
 
On the issue of internal neck friction that is the result of totally clean cases, as it relates to bullet seating force and pull, as well as what has been called "cold welding" of bullets in case necks over time, I have done a little research and came up with a couple of methods that ma help, that I thought that I would pass along.

Todd Kindler sells a water and wax based case lube that dries so that it will not catch powder if it is applied to the inside of case necks with a Q tip and allowed to dry. Also, when a friend loads for calibers that are primarily used for big game, in quantities that may span several years use, he puts a little Imperial case lube on the index finger and thumb of one hand, and rolls bullets between them as part of his seating procedure.


I no longer pick up range brass, and do not load in quantities that require bulk cleaning, but if I were shooting a .223, and had access to once fired brass of known history, I would probably be looking at various methods of cleaning it up, including the "jewelers mix" mentioned on the first page of this thread. It seems to me that little research has been done to determine if having the inside of cases perfectly clean has any effect on accuracy. At this point, it would seem to be almost entirely an aesthetic issue, but that is the good thing about hobbies. We get to make some choices, just because we like it that way.
 
SShooterZ said:
and all you need to refresh every once in a blue moon is your supply of Dawn and Lemishine with your local Walmart carries.

I never have to "refresh" these supplies. I just take what I need from under the kitchen sink and my wife sees to it that they get refreshed as needed 8) 8)
 
BoydAllen said:
On the issue of internal neck friction that is the result of totally clean cases, as it relates to bullet seating force and pull, as well as what has been called "cold welding" of bullets in case necks over time, I have done a little research and came up with a couple of methods that ma help, that I thought that I would pass along.

Todd Kindler sells a water and wax based case lube that dries so that it will not catch powder if it is applied to the inside of case necks with a Q tip and allowed to dry. Also, when a friend loads for calibers that are primarily used for big game, in quantities that may span several years use, he puts a little Imperial case lube on the index finger and thumb of one hand, and rolls bullets between them as part of his seating procedure.

For those concerned with "too clean case necks" just moisten a q-tip with Hornady One-Shot. Lightly swab the inside of the neck after cleaned and let dry. No powder sticking with that produce either.
 

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