Rust issue in shop

[Loudcherokee]

Hey guys,

Went out to the shop the other day after a couple weeks break from anything reloading related. I was dismayed to find some of my tools with exposed metal have light surface rust.

The shop is a metal building with a metal roof and insulation in the walls and roof, with the center of the roof peak non insulated as there is a clear section there for lighting and venting. The insulation is not covered with wall board or anything so the paper backing is exposed.

There are two ductless air conditioners in the shop for the summer months, set on timers to run from 8am - 10pm. The building is approximately 12 feet wide by about 30-40 feet long. There are also heaters for the winter months.

I set up all my reloading stuff in this building at the beginning of this year, so I cant compare to last year.

Any ideas how I can clean off this surface rust and how I can prevent it?

LC

 

[Rsadams]

Dehumidifier would help alot.. wipe everything with a good oil also... Somethings are just horrible about rusting... When we had our motor machine shop new work would rust in a matter of an hour or so but we were by the coast so that doesn't help... The new wd40 rust prevention spray works really good and last a long time.... Rust tests can be seen on you tube...

 

[Dusty Stevens]

Those hornady micrometers rust really easy for some reason- i have one on a seater die and its the only thing that rusts and looks exactly like that. You may need to run those ac units more or install a dehumidifier

 

[coford]

Bronze wool and a little Break-free will take it off without much damage. Bronze wool is easier on the finish than steel wool.

 

[M-61]

That's a good size area and you didn't even say the height of the roof.
'Ductless a/c'......I'm unfamiliar with the term. Are they thru the wall units?
Are they sized for that size area? (LxWxH)
AC units are fabulous dehumidifiers if sized correctly. If they are too large they drop the temp too quickly and don't get a good enough run to dry the air. (walk in to a butchers freezer and it's both freezing and wet)
I have had excellent results with A/C units. Dehumidifiers produce heat that has to be ducted outside, and consume electricity. Walk into a large office building. Hot damp (humidity 95% outside) and yet they are cool and DRY. That's the result of properly sized air conditioning at work. Of course $$$$

 

[338 dude]

As said above A/C or dehumidifier will keep the humidity down but as far as an oil I have used a product called barricade from birchwood Casey and it should help keep the rust off of metal surfaces

 

[powderbrake]

I suggest steel wool to remove the rust, and a coating of Renaissance Wax to help preventing more corrosion.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003AJWN62/?tag=accuratescom-20

 

[Fast14riot]

Those ductless units are nice, my parents have them in their house. They may have a separate setting for dehumidify.

I like to use BLO on regular tools and implements. Precision stuff gets oiled.

 

[Walt Krafft]

I use Johnsons paste wax on all machine and tool surfaces. It protects from rust and makes work slide on the tables of saws and such.

 

[edwardware]

Ditto on whatever Hornady makes those drums from. . . they rust.

You need a dehumidifier, or an AC system config'd to do the same. After you pay to run it, you'll discover you want a tighter building.

 

[Loudcherokee]

The ceiling is probably about an 8 - 9 foot peak in the middle. Side walls on the shed are only approx 7 feet. I could be off on that too. Never been good with eye balling measurements.

The AC units are like a 2ft wide by 4ft tall unit with wheels that has an exhaust tube ran out the side of the building. I can take a picture when I get home. They are supposed to have built in dehumidifiers as there is also a drain tube running from each unit to outside of the building. Even with these running most of the day, it still doesnt drop below 80 degrees inside with the heat and humidity of southeast tennessee at play. There is also a large inground saltwater pool about 15 feet from the building. Probably not helping either.

I did buy some Hornady one shot cleaner and lube. It's supposed to have a dry lube that stays on the item after the cleaner evaporates.

The waxes that are mentioned, do they need to be removed before using the tool? My concern would be the drum of the powder measure and contaminating my powder.

I cant do much to alter the building as it's my father in laws workshop. I do want to at least figure out a way to prevent further contamination since I will be installing a hornady LnL AP out there this week.

LC

 

[Jdne5b]

The Hornady stuff(and other reloading gear.. but Hornady seems worse than others).. LnLAP, dies, powder measure.. all rust pretty easily. I had my LnL in a storage unit for 3 weeks and it all rusted. It was still usable but the ram and other parts that weren't powder coated rusted quick. I kept it in the house after that.

 

[bob smeltzer]

Wipe things down with fluid film, I spray it on my machines and even on rust under my car! Best stuff I ever used!

 

[Doom]

Not sure where in Tenn you are but if you weather is anything like upstate SC the most likely culprit is temperature/humidity fluctuations. In particular, cooler days when no heat is running and then a warm humid front comes in and that air hits the cold metal and condenses.

Your AC units dehumidify the air by design. The best solution is to use the heat and AC to limit the temperature swings.

 

[NorCalMikie]

Good case of TOO CLEAN!! Rust from moisture. Lots of folks with no AC and no rust. Clean is cool till you see the results of TOO clean.
WD 40 everything to drive out any moisture. Fine steel wool to do in the fine surface rust. THEN, oil the hell out of everything.
When the oil is dripping off every surface, only then will you be getting close. And DON'T wipe off the excess. That'll teach you to get everything too clean. Don't like too much oil on things when you're loading? Wipe it off, load as needed and when done, oil it down again.

 

[Walt Krafft]

I let the wax dry and then buff off.

 

[nicholst55]

I have some experience with corrosion remediation and prevention. Buy an INDUSTRIAL-grade dehumidifier rated for the size of your building, and run it constantly during the humid months. One or more small fans circulating the air will also help tremendously. Don't cheap out and buy the 'toy' household dehumidifiers - buy an industrial grade-unit, and expect to pay several hundred dollars, minimum.

 

[LC Tikka]

AC and dehumidifier that discharge outside, air must come inside to replace the outgoing.
With steel bits and tools that are prone to rust I clean well and place them in a pot of lanolin oil and heat to 60c. The surface opens and the oils penetrate.
Wipe off excess where needed, put items away or cover up to prevent air contact. Lanolin is also lasting when applied on warm firearm steel areas.
LC

 

[sunnyfisher]

My shop in Florida is unheated and no ac, I keep everything covered in clear plastic bags with Zerust capsules stuck on the each piece of equipment.
Seems to help quite a bit.

 

[300 weatherby]

Hang Bags of Walnuts from the ceiling with seed sacks. Its works here in Town at a Woodworking shop