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Runout in brass resizing

I have some new 6.5x47 Lapua brass that is perfectly concentric at the neck, virtually no runout. I'm running them through a Hornady neck sizer die with a .268 bushing to change them to 6x47 and in the process, creating about .012 runout.

Any idea what is causing this and what I can do to stop?
 
If you are doing the full neck down in once step you will see more runout. You can try a bushing in between your starting and final size. Or you can shoot them once and they will straighten out a bunch.
 
No necks are equally the same thickness all the way around, when you size it DOWN, the thick side gets thicker again, the thin side gets thicker too, but at differing rates.
This is where your eccentricity is coming from.

Cheers.
:eek:
 
I should also mention that for quite some time I used Forster FL non bushing die and it worked well but slightly flared the case mouths. Also runout was worse with this die. Now I use a 6x47 Lapua FL bushing die without a bushing first. That takes the neck down to roughly .278. After that I run them through my .269 bushing. I get much better results using this method.
 
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One thing I don't see mentioned is that the bushing must float in the die. That is to say that it has to be able to move EASILY. If you take the die out of the press and shake or move it in your hand you must be able to hear/feel the bushing moving. Make certain the bushing is in the die correctly with the right side up. Some don't have a top and bottom, some are different but it doesn't matter....always best to check. Some dies allow the top section to be tightened down on the bushing and that will lock it up.
Next thing is that you can always run them thru a full length sizer to get them back to {should be} zero. I realize you might not have a FL sizer die. The bushing die is usually not too good at getting non-concentric necks back to zero because it floats.
Lastly, it goes without saying that, at this point, you definitely do not want to outside neck turn the cases.
 
You probably have a sorry bushing with little lead in radius. The neck has to buckle or start collapsing on one side to begin squeezing into the bushing. You need to use multiple bushings, taper the lead in to your bushing bore or use a standard FL die so the die shoulder leads the brass into the neck diameter.
 
OK I removed the bushing and resized the neck to approximately halfway. Then put the bushing back in (it does float) and resized the rest of the way. Runout was .002. So all is right with the world again.

BTW, which way should the bushing go in? Numbers up or numbers down?
 
Look closely at the bushing and put the side with the rounded edge down. This allows the case neck to enter the bushing without jamming.
 
I used the Redding bushing dies had the same problem , on the bushing the numbers are facing up . Went back to a full length die . Two steps is recommended when the neck has to be resized more then .004 at one pass .
 
I have some new 6.5x47 Lapua brass that is perfectly concentric at the neck, virtually no runout. I'm running them through a Hornady neck sizer die with a .268 bushing to change them to 6x47 and in the process, creating about .012 runout.

Any idea what is causing this and what I can do to stop?

well it depends on what you are trying to do. have you loaded and shot these rounds? are you disappointed with the accuracy? Average shooter with a factory rifle probably wouldn't even notice.

anyone who is really interested in wringing the last bit of accuracy out of their rifle should use a custom full length sizing die made from their fired brass. lots of reasons why.

just like if you want the best seating die out there. buy a wilson in line seater and arbor press.

this path is not much more expensive then say a set of redding dies and the results will speak for themselves.
 
well it depends on what you are trying to do. have you loaded and shot these rounds? are you disappointed with the accuracy? Average shooter with a factory rifle probably wouldn't even notice.

anyone who is really interested in wringing the last bit of accuracy out of their rifle should use a custom full length sizing die made from their fired brass. lots of reasons why.

just like if you want the best seating die out there. buy a wilson in line seater and arbor press.

this path is not much more expensive then say a set of redding dies and the results will speak for themselves.

Thanks for asking the need parameters. This is new brass that is being necked down for a 6x47 Improved chamber, so fire forming is a must to bump the shoulder out. The rifle is a Nesika model J with Bartlein barrel in a Shehane tracker stock. The use will be in IBS LG. I do have a custom die on order from Whidden. For this phase I'm simply trying to neck down the brass and have them remain relatively straight so I can turn the necks to get them consistent and the thickness I need.
 
I have some new 6.5x47 Lapua brass that is perfectly concentric at the neck, virtually no runout. I'm running them through a Hornady neck sizer die with a .268 bushing to change them to 6x47 and in the process, creating about .012 runout.

Any idea what is causing this and what I can do to stop?
I have some new 6.5x47 Lapua brass that is perfectly concentric at the neck, virtually no runout. I'm running them through a Hornady neck sizer die with a .268 bushing to change them to 6x47 and in the process, creating about .012 runout.

Any idea what is causing this and what I can do to stop?

Here's a post from another site which explains how the only real solution is a stepped neck bushing.

Or, what everybody else does, just form them crookedy and fireform them "straight" and clean 'em up after the fact.

http://benchrest.com/showthread.php?58805-Al-s-6x47L




BTW, post #38 shows pix of your situation

and #84 gets started with the solution
 
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Thanks for asking the need parameters. This is new brass that is being necked down for a 6x47 Improved chamber, so fire forming is a must to bump the shoulder out. The rifle is a Nesika model J with Bartlein barrel in a Shehane tracker stock. The use will be in IBS LG. I do have a custom die on order from Whidden. For this phase I'm simply trying to neck down the brass and have them remain relatively straight so I can turn the necks to get them consistent and the thickness I need.

sorry i misunderstood. Old i guess.

step down sizing. don't worry too much fired brass will once again be concentric. planning to neck turn?
 

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