Ruger Redhawk

[scubohuntr]

I know, it's a rifle forum, but I don't belong to any handgun forums. I'm hoping someone has a Redhawk and can answer a function question for me.

When I dry fire my Redhawk in single action, I sometimes have an issue with it. If I use a light "rifle" just-until-it-breaks trigger pull, the hammer doesn't fall all the way, and ends up halfway down in double action mode. I can keep pulling from there and it will fire in DA. Kind of defeats the whole purpose of single action though. If I keep the pull going and pull through fast enough, it works fine in single action. I worked hard to quit jerking triggers, though, and hate to risk getting back in the habit.

I never noticed this issue in the Redhawk I had years ago, but I traded it off before I started shooting competitively, so my trigger pulls were possibly somewhat less refined.

I'm not too worried about this problem for bear defense; if that ever comes up I'm sure I'll be in double action and trying to pull that trigger right back into the grip. For hunting, though, it could be a problem.

Does anyone have a Redhawk to try this out on? All my exploded diagrams and assembly books are too old to have a Redhawk diagram, and I bought it used so no manual. I don't really want to bring it in to a gunsmith or send it to Ruger, and pay to find out it's just normal. I did a lot of S&W action jobs way back when, and a few Colts, but never a Ruger, so I'm on terra incognita here. It's a 503 series, 1997-ish manufacture.

 

[X Ring Accuracy]

In a nut shell, you need to finely stone the contact surfaces on your trigger parts. While your at it, install a good set of aftermarket springs. Its basically the same trigger as a GP100. I have done several and you would be surprised at the outcome. What you are experiencing is drag on the parts surfaces as they grind against each other.

 

[scubohuntr]

In a nut shell, you need to finely stone the contact surfaces on your trigger parts. While your at it, install a good set of aftermarket springs. Its basically the same trigger as a GP100. I have done several and you would be surprised at the outcome. What you are experiencing is drag on the parts surfaces as they grind against each other.

The single action pull is very nice, and the DA pull isn't bad. The problem is the hammer not dropping all the way in SA, unless I overpull the trigger. I've had enough assorted Rugers over the years to know all about parts drag and grinding, but I've never had one do this.

 

[SSL]

By any chance, has anyone added a trigger stop screw to your Ruger? If so, it is probably adjusted to stop the trigger movement before the sear clears the double action notch, so it catches and stops the hammer fall. Just a thought, but I have seen this many times where single-action firearms (though I realize yours is double-action) catch on the "half-cock" notch when the trigger over-travel screw has been adjusted too much to allow sear clearance as the hammer falls.

 

[JRS]

Talk to Gary Reeder in Flagstaff Az.

 

[Shawnba67]

Does this pistol use a safety transfer bar? If it does use the transfer bar that goes between hammer and firing pin then this is probly normal operation.

 

[gunnut606]

The double action bar on the hammer (spring loaded thing) sticks out a little too far.

Remove the hammer and file the front of it a little bit.