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Ruger No 1 Headed to Alabama

WSMNUT said:
There’s those certain rifles that you’re glad your finished but hate to see them leave.
Well this is definitely one of them.
Ruger No 1 Chambered in 6-BR for @DJSBRS
Hawk Hill 1-8” HV Barrel we turned down to better fit the stock
Bugholes Diamond Fluted it
@RiflePainter Cerakoted the flutes and beauty rings behind the brake and then high polished it
Jard Trigger
Glued and screwed Kelbly’s dovetail rail
And some of the prettiest pieces of wood on a No 1 that I’ve seen

Maybe DJ will let me hold on to this one for a little while before it has to head to Alabama
Click to expand...
We must not forget my good friend @Preacher that did the original fit, finish and checkering for me as well.

Thanks to all for helping a figment of my imagination come true!

DJ
 
WSMNUT said:
Polished down to accept the larger barrel and then blued back to protect the metal.
It’s a pretty simple trick that works flawlessly to put the larger barrels on
I first tried it on my 6PPC No1. It also has an HV barrel on it. Then a few others I’ve gotten custom contours that are 1.250 for 5” and then taper to #5’s. I’ll turn down the breech end to 1.160 after I get them and it makes for a flat area to mount standard rings or rails on without having to buy Ruger No1 mounts and rings.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the response Zack. Again, nice work. But I wasn't asking about the clearance for a larger diameter barrel. It's the forend bedding and attachment. It appears that your forend has full contact with the barrel, not being free floated.

The No. 1 employes tip bedding against the barrel with the angled forend attachment screw pulling the forend back into the receiver. What I was getting at was if you had come up with a way to free float a No. 1 barrel? I believe adding more barrel diameter is a good idea, but did you use the original forend design geometry for the forend attachment?
 
fmturner said:
Thanks for the response Zack. Again, nice work. But I wasn't asking about the clearance for a larger diameter barrel. It's the forend bedding and attachment. It appears that your forend has full contact with the barrel, not being free floated.

The No. 1 employes tip bedding against the barrel with the angled forend attachment screw pulling the forend back into the receiver. What I was getting at was if you had come up with a way to free float a No. 1 barrel? I believe adding more barrel diameter is a good idea, but did you use the original forend design geometry for the forend attachment?
Click to expand...
Free floating a No. 1 is essentially no different then floating anything else other than the No. 1’s having a point of contact at the receiver and a point of contact at the front of the forearm against the barrel with a angled screw in the center.
If your desire is to float the barrel, you need to move the contact from the front of the stock against the barrel to the screw mortise. Sand down the hump at the front of the forearm inlet. Wrap your barrel at the front of the forearm with a few wraps of electrical tape to set the hight. Bed the screw mortise and the entire stock to frame and these will be your only contact.
 
Hntndad said:
Free floating a No. 1 is essentially no different then floating anything else other than the No. 1’s having a point of contact at the receiver and a point of contact at the front of the forearm against the barrel with a angled screw in the center.
If your desire is to float the barrel, you need to move the contact from the front of the stock against the barrel to the screw mortise. Sand down the hump at the front of the forearm inlet. Wrap your barrel at the front of the forearm with a few wraps of electrical tape to set the hight. Bed the screw mortise and the entire stock to frame and these will be your only contact.
Click to expand...
fmturner said:
Thanks for the response Zack. Again, nice work. But I wasn't asking about the clearance for a larger diameter barrel. It's the forend bedding and attachment. It appears that your forend has full contact with the barrel, not being free floated.

The No. 1 employes tip bedding against the barrel with the angled forend attachment screw pulling the forend back into the receiver. What I was getting at was if you had come up with a way to free float a No. 1 barrel? I believe adding more barrel diameter is a good idea, but did you use the original forend design geometry for the forend attachment?
Click to expand...
I too feel like this was such a HUGE failure on Rugers part. The forearm hanger/tang is just too flimsy to be trusted to full float the weight of a heavy barrel.

I should add I've heard of people having better luck not floating the barrels and seen where Ruger advised against it. Even heard of adding the strain screws against the barrel for the best accuracy. The design just lends itself to needing a heavy barrel for best accuracy like the old single shot sharps and high walls and such.

That's a really nice looking #1 for sure.
 
Last edited:
Bill Clifton said:
I too feel like this was such a HUGE failure on Rugers part. The forearm hanger/tang is just too flimsy to be trusted to full float the weight of a heavy barrel.

I should add I've heard of people having better luck not floating the barrels and seen where Ruger advised against it. Even heard of adding the strain screws against the barrel for the best accuracy. The design just lends itself to needing a heavy barrel for best accuracy like the old single shot sharps and high walls and such.

That's a really nice looking #1 for sure.
Click to expand...
Bill, exactly my ipinion. That's based on owning a 1V-25-06, a 1B-270, and a 1S-45-70. I looked at trying to get rid of the tip bedding and came to the conclusion that the forend hanger had to much flex to make it worth the effort. I disagree with huntndad that the fix is as simplistic as he states.

All 3 of my No 1's had great wood. That's why I bought them, in addition to having a very pleasing feel in the hand.
 
fmturner said:
Bill, exactly my ipinion. That's based on owning a 1V-25-06, a 1B-270, and a 1S-45-70. I looked at trying to get rid of the tip bedding and came to the conclusion that the forend hanger had to much flex to make it worth the effort. I disagree with huntndad that the fix is as simplistic as he states.

All 3 of my No 1's had great wood. That's why I bought them, in addition to having a very pleasing feel in the hand.
Click to expand...
Everything Mr. Clifton stated has merit. Including folks using the “Hick’s” accurizer for years. You asked “if you had come up with a way to free float a no.1 barrel” and that’s how it’s done. I don’t think your disagreeing with me per se. because I didn’t claim it’s a “fix”. That’s just the nature of the beast with the way they designed the cocking system/forearm system.
Can’t wait for Darrel to get this back in his hands so he can finally start to enjoy it
 
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