Rollsizer.Com Decapper?

[DDRanch]

Any one using one of these? looking to purchase one in the near future.

 

[Hoser]

I thought about getting one, but they are 2/3 of the way to another Dillon 1050/1100.

Just get an 1100 and deprime and swage out the crimp with one pull of the handle.

 

[DDRanch]

All ready have 2 S 1050s.
Trying to save my shoulder and arm from wearing out.

 

[BrassMonkey01]

I have been wanting one but have a concern with the fw arms die, fw arms sold out their die to Dillon, Dillon finally now has replacement pins but not producing the die yet, do not know if that die will be serviceable or if that even matters?

 

[DDRanch]

I 've been using a FW decapping die for almost a year now with no real problems, except breaking a pin once in a while. It is serviceable. By the looks of the decapper any decapper die should work, but the FW does flick decapped primers off very well. Since I started using it, no primers pulled back into shell.
I may contact Rollsizer support to see if they will continue to use FW die.

 

[Hoser]

Like you I have several 1100s. You might want to consider a Mk7 AutoDrive.

One of my 1100's is set up to just process brass. Just flip a switch and let it go. Deprime, swage and then the last die to touch the case is a FL resize die.

Reloading FL resized brass on a 1050/1100 is really easy.

 

[ToddKS]

I 've been using a FW decapping die for almost a year now with no real problems, except breaking a pin once in a while. It is serviceable. By the looks of the decapper any decapper die should work, but the FW does flick decapped primers off very well. Since I started using it, no primers pulled back into shell.
I may contact Rollsizer support to see if they will continue to use FW die.

Most decapping dies/pins will not survive in high speed automated operation like the Rollsizer Decapper for long. I believe the machine also relies heavily on the auto centering feature of the FW dies. The only die I am aware of with similar features is the Mighty Armory die. I just ordered one of those as one of my FW dies has worn out and that was the only option.

If you already have 1050s or 1100s then the Mark 7 Autodrive is the way to go. It will allow the 1050 to do everything the Rollsizer unit will plus automate other parts of the operation.

 

[tdogg]

I have one, picked it up off the staff prize table at the IPSC nationals at Rio. I've been processing and selling range pick up brass for years. This added another step of processing to my brass for sale. I've processed maybe 4-5 5gallon buckets of brass through it thus far. I had a FW decapper prior to getting this so I had a supply of decapping pins and knew how to set it up proper.

There is a small learning curve to get it setup correctly. Once setup, it seems to run hands off. I wouldn't run it that way until you have all the bugs worked out. I wish they sold a decapping pin that was in between the sizes they sell (0.058 and 0.080?). You can't run the bigger decapping pin as it will swag itself in the small firing pin flash holes but the small decapping pin is more fragile. I've been taking the 0.080 pin and grinding it down to ~0.065-0.070 and they last significantly longer.

I have a 3D printed case feeder that keeps up with it no problem. It runs 3600 cases per hour no problem. I don't process rifle cases with this machine, only pistol (9mm, 40S&W, 38 Super/Comp, 45ACP).

I process dirty brass through this and it doesn't care. I just blow it off on occasion to clean it (probably not advised due to potential for lead dust). This is the advantage of the decapper equipment, you can decap prior to washing the brass. I would keep a stock of decapping pins on hand as you will need them. I would also keep a spare set of the case centering fingers (Peg Set parts?) as they get beat up and that causes the cases to not fall (majority of stoppages and decapping pin breakage).

Cheers,
Toby

 

[BrassMonkey01]

The new decaping pin are now available on Dillons site with 2 sizes large and small might be worth a look , the size is inline with what you are asking for I think

Dillon Precision Pro-Series Decapping Pin - 3 Pack

The Dillon Pro-Series Decapping Pin is the most critical component in the decapping die. These pins are designed for longevity and superior performance. They ship in a convenient pack of three, keeping you stocked up in the event you need a replacement. Standard vs. Small Decapping Pins: Size...

www.dillonprecision.com

 

[DDRanch]

Well I bit the bullet. Should have it next week and will report back.
Thanks for every ones input.

 

[DDRanch]

After tweaking and minor adjustments got it up and running. Only minor problem I have run into is with brass that has been cleaned with stainless pins, a primmer does not fall of decapping pin and gets pulled back up in to shell.

 

[Hoser]

Wet tumble your brass after you deprime it.

 

[DDRanch]

Wet tumble your brass after you deprime it.

This was only 9mm stuff that I had to try out decapper with. Was brass that was given to me. I always wash brass after it has been processed.

 

[tdogg]

I haven't had that issue crop up on my decapper, probably because it is dirty and that acts like lube to help it fall off.

I thought the FWARMS decapper was the popper style and thus the primer should be popped off the pin? My version doesn't have the popper style just the normal FW Arms decapper.

I wonder what Kevin is going to do now the Dillon owns the product line?

Cheers,
Toby

 

[Dillon Friend]

We are just starting to assemble these today. They should ship to Roll Sizer the end of this week.

 

[DDRanch]

I just ran some dirty, not washed or even run in walnut hull 9mm nickel brass. Ran great.
Having more problems with new style Dillon variable speed case feeder. Cases jam up now and than. Going to try DAA's Turbo case-Feeder plate

 

[BrassMonkey01]

Would you say it was worth the coin?
I'm on the fence on this

 

[DDRanch]

I'm happy with it. A little on the pricey side but sure saves my arm from wear and tear.

 

[Hoser]

Would you say it was worth the coin?
I'm on the fence on this

I went a different and a little more expensive route.

I already had a third Dillon 1100 on the bench so I bought a Mark 7 autodrive.

Now when I process/deprime my brass, I am also swaging out any primer crimp. The last die to touch any of my handgun brass is a FL resize die. So when I reload pistol ammo, it has already been FL resized so loading it is a breeze.

I have come close several times to ordering a decapper, just because.

 

[tdogg]

Would you say it was worth the coin?
I'm on the fence on this

I'd say it depends. If you are processing large volumes of brass for sale or use, I think it is worth it. Decapping first will ensure you have smooth reloading on your progressive. It should minimize ringers and other stoppages during loading. If you are just a casual shooter with lower volumes, then I'd stick with decapping on the press or whatever process you are using.

Pro's:
You can decap before you tumble your brass. This minimizes any ringers from the brass not fully drying out and the primer corroding in place. It also speeds up the drying process.
If you use stainless media, the pockets will get cleaned if you decap before tumbling. If no stainless media, the pockets will get cleaner but not spotless.
If you are rollsizing, it minimizes the brass dust from the primers that protrude and scrap along the base of the rollsizer. This also gives more uniform rollsizing as all the brass sits on it's head vs some that ride on the protruding primer.
Decapping before loading does reduce OAL variability on a progressive due to some stubborn/crimped primers not wanting to decap (changes the shell plate load distribution).

Con's:
It's an extra step in the process, that you can't really walk away from while it is running.
The decapping pins on the FW/Dillon decappers are not cheap and are a consumable (turduken cases, beridian primed cases, rocks, tiny flash holes, etc will cause stoppages).
If you want to keep your primary loader case feeder clean, you have to either have a dedicated decapper case feeder or tumble the brass before decapping (kind of defeats the purpose of the machine).

Cheers,
Toby