• This Forum is for adults 18 years of age or over. By continuing to use this Forum you are confirming that you are 18 or older. No content shall be viewed by any person under 18 in California.

Ring marks on scope

Good evening,
What type of separator do you use between the rings and scope to keep from scratching the scope?
Suggestions please,
Ben
 
Easy method - Lap rings, then Hockey tape.

More in depth method - Lap rings, then bed scope in rings with JB Weld.

ALWAYS lap rings no matter what I do.
 
Ledd Slinger said:
Easy method - Lap rings, then Hockey tape.

More in depth method - Lap rings, then bed scope in rings with JB Weld.

ALWAYS lap rings no matter what I do.

I will lap the rings, not familiar with hockey tape...is it thin? I was thinking of trying 1/2" painters tape as it is thin.
 
burris signature zee rings

they also have some new tactical rings as well
 
It depends on the rings. Vertically split rings, like Warne's, or on an AR type scope mount like that made by ADM, really don't leave ring marks at all and generally do not require lapping.

A really good set of Picatinny rings also do not require lapping. I have used Badger and Buckeye Tactical rings that have had multiple optics removed and reinstalled, with ZERO sign that the scopes were ever mounted. The quality of these rings is vastly superior to the typical Leupold or Weaver ring.

Now other rings, not the same story. The hockey tape is not a bad idea, and I would agree with lapping in this instance.
 
Have used Warne rings for years now. Do not lap them or as you say use a separator. Never left a mark on any of my scopes and I swap scopes quite a bit. Use a inch pounds torque wrench and don't over-tighten them.

Only rings I've ever used that left marks were Kelbly rings. I may have over-tightened them...but I've heard others complain. Great rings...just seem to leave a mark.
 
Otter said:
Have used Warne rings for years now. Do not lap them or as you say use a separator. Never left a mark on any of my scopes and I swap scopes quite a bit. Use a inch pounds torque wrench and don't over-tighten them.

Only rings I've ever used that left marks were Kelbly rings. I may have over-tightened them...but I've heard others complain. Great rings...just seem to leave a mark.

same here
 
I have watched guys lap their rings but, I have personally have never done it. I bought a lapping kit about 5 years ago and have never had to use it. I always use a torque wrench and to this point I have yet to ring mark a scope.
 
That reminds me of one i got in the other day. It is very funny. It surprisingly came in with a broken off bolt handle from shooting those "full power" reloads



 
Unless I am using Burris Signature rings (with plastic inserts) I always lap rings, and round off all of the corners and edges that will come in contact with the scope. After that, I take particular care to clean the rings, using light oil first, before mounting scopes. Why would anyone do it any other way, laziness? I am a big fan of the Burris rings, but they are not available for all applications. I prefer high quality aluminum rings over steel. They are plenty strong, light, and much easier to lap. For Weaver or Picatinny application, I like Seekins rings. If you want to know why you should be lapping, make a light cut with your bar and clean the rings, you will see the unevenness of the contact.
 
Once I began lapping and bedding the scope rings, never had another set mark a scope. Like many others have pointed out, you'd be surprised at what you see and find after lapping just about any brand of rings(not insert rings). I've never used the Burris Signature rings, most of my rails are dovetail. I have always heard great things about them, if they work for your application.
 
Again, really good quality rings don't, or perhaps shouldn't, need to be lapped. In fact I am fairly sure that lapping Badger rings voids their warranty. But then again they are $150+/set.

FWIW, I had a set of Leupold rings on a Rem 7400 that I screwed together before I knew anything about shooting (that includes shooting, reloading, or that the Rem 7400 is perhaps the worst firearm Rem every made) that marked up the Bushnell significantly. I am sure those would have required lapping for days to get full contact.
 
If you are using anything other than Burris Signatures, LIBERALLY coat
the inside of the rings w/ ELMERS rubber cement. The excess will squeeze
out and look BADDD. Not to worry, leave it until it dries, and it will come right of.

No ring marks or scope slip. LDS
 
I have lapped rings of the highest quality, and based on the pattern that the abrasive coated bar showed as I began, they all needed lapping to one degree or another. Without taking that cut, you literally have no idea about what you are dealing with. In the last few years I have seen a sharp increase in the buy it, bolt it together, and shoot it mentality, to the point where I find that it is a good idea to ask someone if he has bedded his action, as a preliminary to answering questions about working up loads. A lot of shooters do not understand the connection between accuracy and proper bedding. For steel rings, a bit of lapping, and then bedding the rings to the scope is an alternative that some may prefer to lapping to full contact. A while back I lapped some stainless Ruger rings for a friend, before mounting a scope on a rifle that he gave his son for Christmas. It took an hour and a half of solid effort to get the job done. Looking at the pattern in the rings that the bar made as I began the process, there was no doubt that lapping was needed.
 
I had a set of Badger rings and they marked my Leupold MK4. I now use Burris Signature rings. However, I traded for a Nightforce NXS and of course has a damn 56mm objective and the only thing you can use is the tactical style rings and bases. $250 later I have it mounted on my rifle and hope like hell it won't scratch the new scope.....
 
I primarily use Ken Farrell or Leupold rings on Leupold scopes and I haven't created a ring mark yet, that I know of. I don't lap my rings either, I just torque them to spec.
 

Upgrades & Donations

This Forum's expenses are primarily paid by member contributions. You can upgrade your Forum membership in seconds. Gold and Silver members get unlimited FREE classifieds for one year. Gold members can upload custom avatars.


Click Upgrade Membership Button ABOVE to get Gold or Silver Status.

You can also donate any amount, large or small, with the button below. Include your Forum Name in the PayPal Notes field.


To DONATE by CHECK, or make a recurring donation, CLICK HERE to learn how.

Forum statistics

Threads
165,555
Messages
2,198,167
Members
78,961
Latest member
Nicklm
Back
Top