Rimfire Cleaning

[bdale]

I've recently picked up a few rim-fires, some old Mossbergs and recently a CZ455 Varmint. All these guns shoot great but I was wondering what the rim-fire community uses to clean the bore. The old Mossy's aren't to finicky but the CZ whats to be cleaned after about 30 to 40 rounds, It's pretty new so maybe it will improve with a lot more rounds.

 

[patriot]

Everyone has their own approach. This is what I arrived at. Coincidentally it is nearly identical to one used by a National Prone Champion. The time a barrel can go between cleanings varies widely as does the number of fouling rounds needed for it to settle back down. I clean after every session. A friend with the same rifle that didn't shows frosting at 6 o'clock with less than half the rounds down my bore.

Use a one piece rod with guide to protect the chamber. Only push the rod in one direction, do not pull anything back across the crown. Never use a bore snake.

One pass with a dry patch to remove the loose carbon.
Load a brass brush with Hoppe's and make five or six passes; remove the brush each pass
One dry patch pass to remove the gunk
Another dry patch pass to dry the bore; work the throat back and forth a little to see how much carbon is showing.

If the rifle starts to lose its accuracy, use JB bore paste on the throat. I do it at the start of the season for my primary rifles.

 

[bdale]

Everyone has their own approach. This is what I arrived at. Coincidentally it is nearly identical to one used by a National Prone Champion. The time a barrel can go between cleanings varies widely as does the number of fouling rounds needed for it to settle back down. I clean after every session. A friend with the same rifle that didn't shows frosting at 6 o'clock with less than half the rounds down my bore.

Use a one piece rod with guide to protect the chamber. Only push the rod in one direction, do not pull anything back across the crown. Never use a bore snake.

One pass with a dry patch to remove the loose carbon.
Load a brass brush with Hoppe's and make five or six passes; remove the brush each pass
One dry patch pass to remove the gunk
Another dry patch pass to dry the bore; work the throat back and forth a little to see how much carbon is showing.

If the rifle starts to lose its accuracy, use JB bore paste on the throat. I do it at the start of the season for my primary rifles.

What do you mean by frosting I'm new to this rimfire stuff

 

[patriot]

If you scope the bore, the mirror finish will be frosted or eroded at the bottom starting at the chamber and moving forward. It is likely caused by the glass in the priming compound; the reason to never pull a patch or brush back into the crown. Some manufactures use different proportions of primer/powder. Some have said at one time Eley switched to more of the first and barrel life was reduced; I can't back that up with first hand experience. If my memory is correct, it was noted with Winchester ammo starting back in the 60's. Maybe one of the ole timers can fill in the history.

Mark

 

[patriot]

One more thing; wear protective gloves. Solvent going through your skin and into your system on a frequent basis might not be good for your health.

 

[Hoser]

I clean after 100-200 rounds. I use VFG pellets and a 50-50 mix of kroil and shooters choice.

 

[bdale]

I clean after 100-200 rounds. I use VFG pellets and a 50-50 mix of kroil and shooters choice.

My CZ doesn't want to shoot as well as my old Mossbergs so I'll give this a try.

 

[cdiver]

I clean after every range trip. My method 1 piece rod, bore guide, 1 dry patch, 10 strokes (forward & back) with a nylon brush with Hoppe's 9 on. One pass with a dry patch (this should come out green from the Hoppe's, no dirt on the patch) 1 patch with Hoppe's on and that's it.

 

[watercam]

My CZ doesn't want to shoot as well as my old Mossbergs so I'll give this a try.

Bear in mind that smallbores are finicky about their ammunition. What works in one may not work in another. You can tune the actions screws to optimize a rifle to a load. If you don't have an inch/pound torque wrench buy one - Fat Wrench has been good to me. Set your front screw to 30 in.Ib.. Start your rear screw at 10 in.Ib. and shoot a five round group. Continue to shoot groups while tightening your rear screw in 5 in.Ib. increments. At some point you will see a tightening of your group size and then a fall off as you pass through a node. Go back to that setting and play with the rear screw +/- a few in.Ib. to fine tune it. I re-tune with every lot change. I have been very impressed with all RWS products. Even their cheapest Target Rifle (also known as GECO rifle) has worked for me in two rifles and my bullseye pistol. GECO Match is, I believe, RWS Match. Just less expensive.

 

[bdale]

Bear in mind that smallbores are finicky about their ammunition. What works in one may not work in another. You can tune the actions screws to optimize a rifle to a load. If you don't have an inch/pound torque wrench buy one - Fat Wrench has been good to me. Set your front screw to 30 in.Ib.. Start your rear screw at 10 in.Ib. and shoot a five round group. Continue to shoot groups while tightening your rear screw in 5 in.Ib. increments. At some point you will see a tightening of your group size and then a fall off as you pass through a node. Go back to that setting and play with the rear screw +/- a few in.Ib. to fine tune it. I re-tune with every lot change. I have been very impressed with all RWS products. Even their cheapest Target Rifle (also known as GECO rifle) has worked for me in two rifles and my bullseye pistol. GECO Match is, I believe, RWS Match. Just less expensive.

I will try this I have a good automotive inch pound torque wrench and have ordered some more ammo getting quiet a collection and yes RWS is in the mix.

 

[DogBuster]

when I take out a 22LR....usually a Marlin 39 Mountie....after 150 (ish) rounds..

I'll push 2 solvent soaked patches..usually Butches....followed by a wet oil only patch...

The '39s are simple to maintain & keep clean.....

 

[USMCDOC]

. GECO Match is, I believe, RWS Match. Just less expensive.

From what i can garner over on RFC.. this is correct

 

[Tommie]

I faithfully clean my rimfires every even-numbered decade.

 

[flatlander]

I chambered & fitted a Krieger to a Stiller 2500XR, and a Benchmark 3-groove 1-16.5 bbl to a 40X repeater conversion this past year, using a PTG Ultimate EPS reamer. Typically wipe each bore out with a couple of patches wet with Ed's Red, followed by a dry patch, at somewhere between 200-300rds. I used a bronze bore brush on both of them the first couple of times I cleaned them, just in case there was some leading in the throats, but haven't seen the need to repeat the brushing at this point.

Recently bought what appeared to be a NIB Anschutz 2011 off Gun Broker, and will likely follow the same cleaning routine with it as with the other two custom barreled repeaters.