Has anyone here ever tried sorting brass by rim thickness to gain more round-to-round primer seating depth consistency for improved ignition consistency (MV ES)?
That is the easy answer although very limiting: Lee APP (yuck) or Sinclair. No "good" bench priming tool that isn't rim thickness dependant to choose from. The Sinclair is a very nice hand tool and I do have one, but is not very fun to get dialed into a specific optimal seating depth. Once it is set, I leave it set for that cartridge and pretty much buy another one for every different cartridge.Just get a priming system that isn't rim thickness dependant.
There is data supporting it but it's useless to share because everyone's level of benefit varies by lot to lot, brand to brand, or priming tool to priming tool. I'm a nutshell, the more variation you have in your rims - the greater the benefit of sorting them by rim thickness.Is there any data that suggest primer seating depth has an effect on accuracy? I read all about it here but have never seen it mentioned on any of the other gun sites. Yes, I think rim fire rim thickness has an effect on consistency, and would have an accuracy effect, but maybe not that the actual thickness has any effect. I am not trying to rain on anyone's parade just seeking accuracy, and trying to not do stuff that may not matter. I've seated to the bottom of the pocket from day one, and had 300 RUM with single digit ES. Then on some others not so much.
Right on. Seat to the bottom of the pocket by feel. Nothing to measure. The ultimate consistency.Is there any data that suggest primer seating depth has an effect on accuracy? I read all about it here but have never seen it mentioned on any of the other gun sites. Yes, I think rim fire rim thickness has an effect on consistency, and would have an accuracy effect, but maybe not that the actual thickness has any effect. I am not trying to rain on anyone's parade just seeking accuracy, and trying to not do stuff that may not matter. I've seated to the bottom of the pocket from day one, and had 300 RUM with single digit ES. Then on some others not so much.
Hard to make that claim until you've tested both ways, although you'd need a rim thickness gauge in order to seat with the most consistency by measurement. Perhaps you are able to "feel" to the precision of +/-0.0005" but I personally do not know anyone who can (let alone repeatably). Not trying to be snarky, just being straight forward and honest.Right on. Seat to the bottom of the pocket by feel. Nothing to measure. The ultimate consistency.
Seating a certain distance from the case head should have nothing to do ignition consistency? If the firing pin pushes the primer cup forward you have a problem. Every case and primer has its own dimensions which will determine the resistance to the cup getting pushed forward. if a primer gets pushed forward by the FP firing pin energy is lost. You probably cannot test primers unless you have a rifle that can shoot groups close to 1's. and you shoot in a tunnel. If you don't seat to the bottom of the pocket, you don't know how much FP energy is being used to set the primer charge off. Even if you don't have failure to fire you have inconsistency in energy setting the charge off. I would think seating to the bottom of the pocket would give you the most consistency possible. The cup rim edges contact the bottom of the pocket and the anvils are always pushed the same amount since the cup cannot go any farther than the bottom of the pocket. I don't need to test. I am happy with my results.Hard to make that claim until you've tested both ways, although you'd need a rim thickness gauge in order to seat with the most consistency by measurement. Perhaps you are able to "feel" to the precision of +/-0.0005" but I personally do not know anyone who can (let alone repeatably). Not trying to be snarky, just being straight forward and honest.
Primers seated to high can cause fliers, primers crushed can cause poor ES/SD. Primers seated to bottom of pocket give the most consistent ignition.
It's been a while since I reloaded due to surgery. Some brands of primers the anvils don't protrude outside the cup. If I remember correctly one of the brands I use the anvil legs are only about 5 thou outside the cup. That means the anvil legs can only be pushed into the cup to the height of the cup edge. The legs may get bent inward without the center of the anvil moving very little. It’s the pointed center of the anvil that sets the charge off. The legs support the center of the anvil so it has resistant to movement. The FP dents the cup and pushes the charge into the anvil center, The anvil doesn’t move into the charge. If the legs don't support the anvil some FP energy must get lost. If you seat to a certain ht. the anvil legs are kind of floating in open space. We cannot measure good ignition we can only look at the target. I guess ES is an indicator of good ignition mixed in with the effects of powder type and weight. I know the FP where it goes thru my bolt shroud has a lot of rubbing but I don't want to spend the money to fix it. It's a big contributor to bad ignition.I'm not going to debate with anyone that seating by measurement (given you know the pocket depth and primer height) is better than seating by feel. As a matter of fact: these two different styles create quite a rivalry amongst shooters. What i will say is that my testing as well as many others that have the mentioned method have found lower ES over seating by feel. I do not believe there is anyway to convince a "feel" guy otherwise unless there were a whole crew of guys gathered at the same place doing the testing. And even then (in my experience) they always have some comment to throw to make all testing null and their method correct; or they'll just say seating by feel is "good enough" and can't shoot the difference anyways.
Bryan Zolnikov just took 1st place last year in 600yd benchrest nationals using this very method and my RPG tool to sort rims. Take it for what it's worth.
This is good and glad to see the subject staying on track. In hindsight, perhaps I should have been more clear on exactly what is measured and what grounds these measurements are based upon.It's been a while since I reloaded due to surgery. Some brands of primers the anvils don't protrude outside the cup. If I remember correctly one of the brands I use the anvil legs are only about 5 thou outside the cup. That means the anvil legs can only be pushed into the cup to the height of the cup edge. The legs may get bent inward without the center of the anvil moving very little. It’s the pointed center of the anvil that sets the charge off. The legs support the center of the anvil so it has resistant to movement. The FP dents the cup and pushes the charge into the anvil center, The anvil doesn’t move into the charge. If the legs don't support the anvil some FP energy must get lost. If you seat to a certain ht. the anvil legs are kind of floating in open space. We cannot measure good ignition we can only look at the target. I guess ES is an indicator of good ignition mixed in with the effects of powder type and weight. I know the FP where it goes thru my bolt shroud has a lot of rubbing but I don't want to spend the money to fix it. It's a big contributor to bad ignition.
Don't understand rim thickness.

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