• This Forum is for adults 18 years of age or over. By continuing to use this Forum you are confirming that you are 18 or older. No content shall be viewed by any person under 18 in California.

Rifle setup recoil free

I just started shooting 1K paper competitively three years ago. As you have correctly identified, I too recognized early on that tracking was key. I modified my stocks to make the butt and for-end parallel. That helped immensely, but I still wasn’t competitive.

I agree with Mike and Dusty. I think the keys are:

1. A stock designed to track straight with a parallel design.

I eventually ended up with the Wheeler LRB stock. It has a 4” forend and adjustable rudder so it is stable and can be adjusted to track perfectly straight.

View attachment 1118601

Note the JJ rest, 4 inch forend on the stock, bags that fit the stock properly, the port level ammo holder and even the weights which I put on the rest after it is set up to ensure no movement.

2. A smooth action that is properly timed with no cock on close so you don’t disturb the rifle in the bags.

I wound up with a BAT B with roller cocking piece. Then Alex tuned the action to make sure there was no cock on close. That is important. When opening the bolt, you can offset lateral forces by placing your thumb on the left/top of the bolt shroud while opening the bolt with your index finger. I can close my bolt on a loaded round with one finger.

3. A solid front rest and rear bag that property fit the stock.

You need a stable heavy front and rear rest if you want to make sure it doesn’t move. The bags need to fit the rifle to the point that you can’t move the rifle left or right while it’s sitting in the bags.

4. A cartridge choice that minimizes recoil and maximizes accuracy.

Many out there, it’s just a matter of preference. Whatever you choose, I would bump the shoulder to the point where the bolt, with the firing pin removed, drops on its own with zero pressure. This will ensure you minimize rifle movement while closing the bolt.

I run every sized case through the rifle prior to loading to make sure I have no surprises on the line. As they work harden you may have some that don’t bump enough.

View attachment 1118599

5. Focus on shooting form at the bench.

Even something as small as pushing the rifle back to battery with your shoulder versus your hand can make a difference.

Good luck,
Dave.
WOW!!!!, nice setup and great advice. be careful, once you do something well, people expect it:rolleyes:
 
I just started shooting 1K paper competitively three years ago. As you have correctly identified, I too recognized early on that tracking was key. I modified my stocks to make the butt and for-end parallel. That helped immensely, but I still wasn’t competitive.

I agree with Mike and Dusty. I think the keys are:

1. A stock designed to track straight with a parallel design.

I eventually ended up with the Wheeler LRB stock. It has a 4” forend and adjustable rudder so it is stable and can be adjusted to track perfectly straight.

View attachment 1118601

Note the JJ rest, 4 inch forend on the stock, bags that fit the stock properly, the port level ammo holder and even the weights which I put on the rest after it is set up to ensure no movement.

2. A smooth action that is properly timed with no cock on close so you don’t disturb the rifle in the bags.

I wound up with a BAT B with roller cocking piece. Then Alex tuned the action to make sure there was no cock on close. That is important. When opening the bolt, you can offset lateral forces by placing your thumb on the left/top of the bolt shroud while opening the bolt with your index finger. I can close my bolt on a loaded round with one finger.

3. A solid front rest and rear bag that property fit the stock.

You need a stable heavy front and rear rest if you want to make sure it doesn’t move. The bags need to fit the rifle to the point that you can’t move the rifle left or right while it’s sitting in the bags.

4. A cartridge choice that minimizes recoil and maximizes accuracy.

Many out there, it’s just a matter of preference. Whatever you choose, I would bump the shoulder to the point where the bolt, with the firing pin removed, drops on its own with zero pressure. This will ensure you minimize rifle movement while closing the bolt.

I run every sized case through the rifle prior to loading to make sure I have no surprises on the line. As they work harden you may have some that don’t bump enough.

View attachment 1118599

5. Focus on shooting form at the bench.

Even something as small as pushing the rifle back to battery with your shoulder versus your hand can make a difference.

Good luck,
Dave.
I'm relatively new to the game game and just came across this thread. Thanks for the info you shared here. I'm quite particular about my practice, i.e. measuring every case after sizing and seating (no sampling), running match simulations to practice setting up/tearing down the bench, etc., helps to keep my head clear. But I never even considered your practice of running each sized case through the rifle prior to loading. Great tip and I'll definitely be adding this to my routine. Argument could be made that it's a time suck, but I'd trade that any day for peace of mind and no surprises at the bench. Thank you!
 
I've watched this video made years ago by Sam Hall. Lot of good info in 9 minutes. He makes it look real easy - the good ones always do.

 

Upgrades & Donations

This Forum's expenses are primarily paid by member contributions. You can upgrade your Forum membership in seconds. Gold and Silver members get unlimited FREE classifieds for one year. Gold members can upload custom avatars.


Click Upgrade Membership Button ABOVE to get Gold or Silver Status.

You can also donate any amount, large or small, with the button below. Include your Forum Name in the PayPal Notes field.


To DONATE by CHECK, or make a recurring donation, CLICK HERE to learn how.

Forum statistics

Threads
166,312
Messages
2,216,375
Members
79,554
Latest member
GerSteve
Back
Top