Rifle setup recoil free
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mikeeg02
Michael Glantz
Ill add one more thing that some will find subjective.
My definition of a good tracking stock is one that properly fits your bags, and ultimately when is returned to battery, is at the same point of aim. Yes, ideally one that came back perfect and didnt move *seems* like the answer, but I believe its less about how it recoils, and more about how it *doesnt* move in the bag, which allows it to returns to battery at the same point of aim. Which IS a combination of bag fitment and orientation.
The stock I am shooting currently tracks a little right on recoil. I can assure you when its pushed back into battery, its where it needs to be. So much that I can typically trust it over the scope, when in varying mirage. Think about that for a moment, because mirage can be an optical phenomenon that *moves* where you think the target is. There have been instances when I havent had my front bag as tight as it should be, and rear bag properly oriented and so I need to slightly adjust.
Just my experience in whats helped me get them down range quicker and more consistently.
My definition of a good tracking stock is one that properly fits your bags, and ultimately when is returned to battery, is at the same point of aim. Yes, ideally one that came back perfect and didnt move *seems* like the answer, but I believe its less about how it recoils, and more about how it *doesnt* move in the bag, which allows it to returns to battery at the same point of aim. Which IS a combination of bag fitment and orientation.
The stock I am shooting currently tracks a little right on recoil. I can assure you when its pushed back into battery, its where it needs to be. So much that I can typically trust it over the scope, when in varying mirage. Think about that for a moment, because mirage can be an optical phenomenon that *moves* where you think the target is. There have been instances when I havent had my front bag as tight as it should be, and rear bag properly oriented and so I need to slightly adjust.
Just my experience in whats helped me get them down range quicker and more consistently.
Dusty Stevens
Shiner
Balance, bag fill, proper slickness in the bags, and fl sized brass with good bolt lube
Link
Silver $$ Contributor
mikeeg02
Michael Glantz
The best way is to stay away from pressure. Proper headspace. If you are close to pressure there are some tricks you can play to make sure they open easy. Keep your cases and throat/chamber dry. That's the case work itself.
Bat makes a roller cocking piece that helps, you can polish the cocking ramp. I run a couple kelblys, and I haven't had to do that, and mine opens up just like they should. If you're using a r700, it helps to have a longer style bolt handle like the customs come with. And while opening the bolt, keep your thumb on the rifle behind the action. This helps with not upsetting the rifle in the bags if you have moderate bolt lift. And even without bolt lift, helps keep things where they should be, so when you return to battery, its where it should be. Providing your bags fit properly.
Bat makes a roller cocking piece that helps, you can polish the cocking ramp. I run a couple kelblys, and I haven't had to do that, and mine opens up just like they should. If you're using a r700, it helps to have a longer style bolt handle like the customs come with. And while opening the bolt, keep your thumb on the rifle behind the action. This helps with not upsetting the rifle in the bags if you have moderate bolt lift. And even without bolt lift, helps keep things where they should be, so when you return to battery, its where it should be. Providing your bags fit properly.
JMayo
Silver $$ Contributor
Agreed with Mike and Dusty.
I see some that are shy of a couple of seconds = 5 rounds.
My bolt opens as easy as it closes + the cocking.
Not shooting the hottest load made to man like so many seem to think is the best. Jam isn't really jamed, just more than touching, correctly bumped shoulders on cases that aren't hard as glass. My shoulder in the right place to stop recoil in the right place at the right time is what I'm working on improving.
I see some that are shy of a couple of seconds = 5 rounds.
My bolt opens as easy as it closes + the cocking.
Not shooting the hottest load made to man like so many seem to think is the best. Jam isn't really jamed, just more than touching, correctly bumped shoulders on cases that aren't hard as glass. My shoulder in the right place to stop recoil in the right place at the right time is what I'm working on improving.
I just started shooting 1K paper competitively three years ago. As you have correctly identified, I too recognized early on that tracking was key. I modified my stocks to make the butt and for-end parallel. That helped immensely, but I still wasn’t competitive.
I agree with Mike and Dusty. I think the keys are:
1. A stock designed to track straight with a parallel design.
I eventually ended up with the Wheeler LRB stock. It has a 4” forend and adjustable rudder so it is stable and can be adjusted to track perfectly straight.
Note the JJ rest, 4 inch forend on the stock, bags that fit the stock properly, the port level ammo holder and even the weights which I put on the rest after it is set up to ensure no movement.
2. A smooth action that is properly timed with no cock on close so you don’t disturb the rifle in the bags.
I wound up with a BAT B with roller cocking piece. Then Alex tuned the action to make sure there was no cock on close. That is important. When opening the bolt, you can offset lateral forces by placing your thumb on the left/top of the bolt shroud while opening the bolt with your index finger. I can close my bolt on a loaded round with one finger.
3. A solid front rest and rear bag that property fit the stock.
You need a stable heavy front and rear rest if you want to make sure it doesn’t move. The bags need to fit the rifle to the point that you can’t move the rifle left or right while it’s sitting in the bags.
4. A cartridge choice that minimizes recoil and maximizes accuracy.
Many out there, it’s just a matter of preference. Whatever you choose, I would bump the shoulder to the point where the bolt, with the firing pin removed, drops on its own with zero pressure. This will ensure you minimize rifle movement while closing the bolt.
I run every sized case through the rifle prior to loading to make sure I have no surprises on the line. As they work harden you may have some that don’t bump enough.
5. Focus on shooting form at the bench.
Even something as small as pushing the rifle back to battery with your shoulder versus your hand can make a difference.
Good luck,
Dave.
I agree with Mike and Dusty. I think the keys are:
1. A stock designed to track straight with a parallel design.
I eventually ended up with the Wheeler LRB stock. It has a 4” forend and adjustable rudder so it is stable and can be adjusted to track perfectly straight.
Note the JJ rest, 4 inch forend on the stock, bags that fit the stock properly, the port level ammo holder and even the weights which I put on the rest after it is set up to ensure no movement.
2. A smooth action that is properly timed with no cock on close so you don’t disturb the rifle in the bags.
I wound up with a BAT B with roller cocking piece. Then Alex tuned the action to make sure there was no cock on close. That is important. When opening the bolt, you can offset lateral forces by placing your thumb on the left/top of the bolt shroud while opening the bolt with your index finger. I can close my bolt on a loaded round with one finger.
3. A solid front rest and rear bag that property fit the stock.
You need a stable heavy front and rear rest if you want to make sure it doesn’t move. The bags need to fit the rifle to the point that you can’t move the rifle left or right while it’s sitting in the bags.
4. A cartridge choice that minimizes recoil and maximizes accuracy.
Many out there, it’s just a matter of preference. Whatever you choose, I would bump the shoulder to the point where the bolt, with the firing pin removed, drops on its own with zero pressure. This will ensure you minimize rifle movement while closing the bolt.
I run every sized case through the rifle prior to loading to make sure I have no surprises on the line. As they work harden you may have some that don’t bump enough.
5. Focus on shooting form at the bench.
Even something as small as pushing the rifle back to battery with your shoulder versus your hand can make a difference.
Good luck,
Dave.
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X-Caveman
Gold $$ Contributor
You probably noticed a couple of those items came from you! I always liked wagons when I was a kid, I guess some things don’t change.
Dave.
By the way, they work great.
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Free recoil in the context of PRS shooting is really quite an effective thing. I've been working on the technique myself after shooting with and getting tips from some very generous PRS pro shooters. It works great for positional shooting off barricades or odd objects. The key things that seem to make it work are 1) Having a low recoil rifle like a 6mm based cartridge in a heavy PRS competition gun with a muzzle brake. 2) Having a light trigger pull weight and 3) Shooting with the Game Changer bag or similar.
All you do is place the bag on whatever you are shooting off of, then position the rifle so that it's perfectly balanced pointing at the target. You want to be able to let go of the rifle entirely and still have it stay in position and stay on target. Then you place your left hand on the rifle with light pressure... either a finger alongside the barrel channel or a lay hand across the front scope ring. Just enough to be able to fine tune your aim. The rear of the rifle you essentially don't touch except the trigger finger, which you pull straight back until the shot breaks. I am trying it out with just a hint of contact with the cheek rest, butt stock and palm of my trigger finger hand...but just barely brushing against the gun so as not to disturb the aim point. It keeps my body in the right spot to "catch" the rifle on recoil, but doesn't transmit any of my body movement to the gun. Not sure if I'll stick with that or work towards entirely free recoiling the rifle with no contact...still messing around with learning what works for me.
I see about a 50% reduction in "wobble" on target with this method compared to gripping the rifle and shouldering it more firmly, and it's also much less susceptible to wobble induced by elevated heartrate/adrenaline.
All you do is place the bag on whatever you are shooting off of, then position the rifle so that it's perfectly balanced pointing at the target. You want to be able to let go of the rifle entirely and still have it stay in position and stay on target. Then you place your left hand on the rifle with light pressure... either a finger alongside the barrel channel or a lay hand across the front scope ring. Just enough to be able to fine tune your aim. The rear of the rifle you essentially don't touch except the trigger finger, which you pull straight back until the shot breaks. I am trying it out with just a hint of contact with the cheek rest, butt stock and palm of my trigger finger hand...but just barely brushing against the gun so as not to disturb the aim point. It keeps my body in the right spot to "catch" the rifle on recoil, but doesn't transmit any of my body movement to the gun. Not sure if I'll stick with that or work towards entirely free recoiling the rifle with no contact...still messing around with learning what works for me.
I see about a 50% reduction in "wobble" on target with this method compared to gripping the rifle and shouldering it more firmly, and it's also much less susceptible to wobble induced by elevated heartrate/adrenaline.
This will probably be one of those few times when almost everyone mostly agrees on a topic and what it takes to achieve success.
I don’t have much to add other than follow most of the advice above and when your gun starts tracking right you’ll know it. It’s like warm apple pie at that point. And when it stops tracking for some weird reason you’ll know it right away.
See if you can shoot a couple rounds through a friends gun they tracks properly to get a feel for good tracking too. Many people ‘think’ their gun tracks until they feel real tracking. I was one of those people.
I don’t have much to add other than follow most of the advice above and when your gun starts tracking right you’ll know it. It’s like warm apple pie at that point. And when it stops tracking for some weird reason you’ll know it right away.
See if you can shoot a couple rounds through a friends gun they tracks properly to get a feel for good tracking too. Many people ‘think’ their gun tracks until they feel real tracking. I was one of those people.
not so much for chess, more important is planning several moves ahead and covering your butt in case of a catastrophic failure!!!!
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