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rifle bolt hard to lift

I have a problem opening the bolt after firing. The loaded round chambers fine and after firing it opens fine, except the last little bit of bolt rotation. When I get the bolt up to where it starts to hit the angle on the back of the action to force it out, I have to slap the bolt up to force it open. It is starting to notch a dent in the bolt. Do you have a idea why it is starting to do this now. I've put almost 200 rounds through it with no problems till now. It is a remington 700 bought used with 1200 rounds through it. There are no high pressure indicators on the brass,no splits, doughnuts, or extractor marks). Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks
 
Sounds like either a timing issue or the cases need to be sized a tiny bit more, or a small base die is needed if the die your using is as low as it can go....
 
Here are two things to try.

First, get some new brass. Load the same load and see if the bolt 'Click' at the top is still there.

Second. Take new brass and reduce the load 1 gr and see if the bolt 'Click' is there.

You have have brass that needs to be sized down at the base more, or old brass that is not sizing down at the base. The new brass will let you know if that is the problem.

Reducing the load 1 gr will let you know about high pressures. Sometimes the traditional methods of indicating high pressure are not obvious. The reduced charge will let you know if that is an issue.

Also, do you have the ability to bore scope the bbl? If so, look right in front of the chanber and see if you have a carbon build-up. That could be causing high pressure and resultant bolt 'Clicks'.

Bob
 
I have reloaded with new brass and the bolt lift is alot better. I have been FL sizing just enough to bump the shoulder. I dont think I've been sizing enough on the base. Does this sound like it could be the issue? If so can I purchase a Base Sizing die to fix this, I have never used such a die.
 
Is the cocking cam at the rear of the bolt dry? Are the locking lugs regularly lubed? Both these bearing surfaces have to be kept lubed or galling and hard bolt lift can occur.
 
Sounds just like what I just finished dealing with on my 20BR. More than likely, it's a base problem....not a shoulder issue.

Your brass needs to be sized smaller at the base,which is the easiest solution). Or, if it is like what I had...even a small base die wouldn't work. So I had to polish the inside of my chamber to open it up just a couple of thousandths and now all is well.

Mine was doing it from day one after chambering, so I can chalk that one due to a tight reamer. But, I can't answer why yours would just start doing it after so many rounds.
 
At the bottom rear of the firing pin is a projection with a V-shaped front. The V fits into a small notch at the rear of the bolt body when the bolt is removed from the rifle. This keeps the firing pin cocked. When fired, the firing pin projection goes forward into a large V-shaped cutout in the rear of the bolt body. One side of this large V slopes at a 45 degree angle back to the small notch. This slope is a helical cam that the firing pin projection rides on when the bolt handle is lifted which recocks the firing pin. This slope must be kept lubed or galling will occur which produces a sticky bolt handle lift.
 
Could it be one,or both) of the front Scope Base Screws are too deep interfering with the Bolt Body and/or Locking Lugs?

Inspect the bolt for marks and stick your finger into the action to feel how far these screws protude. Bare in mind that the position of the bolt on an empty chamber as opposed to a chamber with a fired case can be slightly different.
 

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