Rifle Basix PITA

[lrgoodger]

As you probably realize the trigger pivot is designed to be installed in two different configurations depending on the pull weight range that you want. Do you have it in the correct configuration for lightest pull?

There are 3 trigger pivot pin positions on this trigger. The video shows putting it in the center position and then testing on a trigger scale where it trips at 5 1/2 oz. They then move the pivot pin to the front hole (for more leverage, he says) and show the scale tripping at 1 1/2 oz. From what I'm reading here, that would be a little misleading (to indicate it could be adjusted that low).

You are right about the creep. It is very small and smooth, so it's not a big distraction. I just thought maybe I didn't have it adjusted correctly. I did manage to win factory class with it today at our shoot.

I'm going to have to find time to try iterative spring adjustment with 1/8 turns and see if I can get it where I want it. What a PITA.

 

[savageshooter86]

I had same concern. DVD shows one step then next thing showing is the refocus low pull weight and them saying it is safe and won't bump fire or however they word it.

Mine is creep free and over travel free but it isn't safe at 11 oz, so I am calling tom to see. I may see about refund and getting a SSS competition

Like I said before, I played with and watched video over and over and spent more than 2 days and now I am back where I was to start with. Needing a trigger

 

[BoydAllen]

I told you that it had been a long time. After I decade or so, the memory gets hazy....for me. Good catch.

 

[rayjay]

The reality is that the layout of the Savage bolt and trigger assembly makes it about impossible to design a foolproof 2 oz trigger that also fits a mostly standard stock inlet.

If you look at state of the art triggers like the Jewel or the Annie 5018 or any of the Remington 2 stage custom triggers and then figure out where you are going to put all that mechanism in the space available and in the orientation needed to work within the Savage architecture constraints you will begin to see how intractable the problem is.

If you HAVE to have a BR quality 1.5 to 2 oz trigger get a Remington or a clone [ a clone being anything that uses a Remington pattern trigger ].

 

[savageshooter86]

Any update? I just took mine apart and to make sure everything was still secure and hasn't moved, all was well. Watched DVD again 2 times and still having issue of the sear disengaging when closing bolt. This is a nice and smooth attempt to do so, not slamming it. Pivot pin is in first hole like instructions day to do. I am only wanting a 10 oz pull. So I have no idea. To prevent this I would assume to turn trigger adjustment spring in(more pull weight).......

 

[BigDMT]

If you have the trigger pull spring completely disengaged the sear cannot reset itself all the way to make proper amount of engagement when closing the bolt. also need to make sure you have enough sear engagement. if it fires when closing the bolt, its guaranteed you dont have enough sear engagement. but like I said, that can also be caused if the pull weight spring has no tension on it.

 

[savageshooter86]

according to video, I turned trigger spring in half way. And the video does not show how to set sear engagement up but it is adjusted by the screw that has the small lock nut on it. It is backed out. Last time I talked to the guy at RB he told me to that is used to take creep out of trigger and to turn it in, with the trigger cocked, until it makes the trigger fire. Then back the adjustment screw out a tad bit more. tried that and same thing.

I know this is not rocket science and I am pretty tech savvy so I am following the video and instructions.

I hope I can figure this thing out. If not off to the gunsmith to spend some more $$ on something that is "drop in"

 

[BigDMT]

The "creep" in a trigger is determined by how much sear engagement there is. More engagement, more creep. Less engagement, less creep. You MAY have to have a little creep to make it safe. These are very fine adjustments when trying to hit the "sweet spot". many times only turning the sear engagement screw half a millimeter can determine whether you have an unsafe trigger, or a really nice, crisp, safe trigger with a light pull. sometimes locking the nut will change it a bit too so you have to play with it in VERY small increments of adjustment.

Hopefully you can get it worked out. good luck

 

[savageshooter86]

Also the video really doesn't show/tell you in what order to set up the trigger. Like said before show assembling the housing, then turns trigger spring in half way then BAM it is at 5.5 oz pull. Then moves the pin to the forward hole and it is at 1.5 oz pull and then shows setting the safety adjustment screw up and the over travel. Seems to me some steps and how to adjust were not shown.

So I have the sear screw almost all the way backed out and still slam firing. This should make it safe but have creep. I do not feel creep with the screw this far out. If you look the screw is not even protruding out from the hole under. Turn it clockwise and the screw comes out of the hole

 

[savageshooter86]

I will go do it now. Maybe just maybe we found the cause. I set the over travel up to be NONE. :-[ Thought you didn't want any at all

 

[savageshooter86]

nope. That wasn't it. Backed out until there was a good bit of over travel and the same issue. I turned pull weight spring in all the way and that seems to have fixed the issue but at the expense of pull weight. Oh well :'(

Maybe my shooting buddies can look at it with me and maybe between all of us we can fix this. I guess I will live with a clean 1# pull weight for now. Most competition shooters would laugh at that I think

 

[savageshooter86]

I realize that adjusting one requires fiddling with the sear screw. But still the sear screw is backed out and not touching anything. So shouldn't I have creep? Still none present

I will see if I can get some great photos of my set up just so anyone with one can eye it over to see if anything sticks out

 

[rayjay]

On any mass produced assembly to get max performance out of it you have to 'detail' every part. Detail means check for burrs, roughness, friction, etc on every sliding or rotating surface. Make sure all the pins are smooth and their bores are smooth. Make sure the sides of the trigger is smooth and the areas inside the trigger housing are smooth. Smooth means polished but with no real metal removal other than raised burrs. Break [ radius or chamfer ] the edges of the sliding surfaces.

 

[25AI260]

just a question..
i've not had any dealing with the Sav2 trigger... reading most of the threads it sounds as though there isn't a real fix on the trigger 'itself' without help from another option,...has anyone changed out the firing pin spring to accommodate the problem ..
what sounds like a sear engagement at the last stage of setting up the trigger for the end result to the problem, light Vs. creep without pre fire pin drop

 

[nosualc]

You can polish and adjust to your hearts content, but it's never going to be as good as a Jewell trigger.

You're not going to be able to set it as lightly (and still be safe), and it's not going to be as smooth and repeatable.

The Rifle Basix trigger is an upgrade for the stock Savage trigger. An improvement (I'm not a fan of the Accu-trigger), but be realistic, it is and cannot be a Jewell. If you want a better trigger, you'll have to change actions.

-nosualc

 

[Willoughby]

I have owned several high $ triggers for Reningtons-you know their names-
none of them are as safe or break as light as a target Savage Accu trigger
or a slightly modified regular Accu trigger
I have never seen a better trigger design for savages than the Accu trigger
I just hone the surfaces & replace the original springs for a safe - light trigger
I have one set at a repeatable -safe- 10 oz using ink pen springs

 

[BoydAllen]

You have to be kidding. I have a Jewel, that is good to 1.5 oz, and the bolt can be slammed hard, the butt bumped and the stock slapped without it going off. I have a Bix N'Andy that will go to half of that safely. There isn't a factory trigger in the world including any thing that Savage makes that can touch either one.

 

[Willoughby]

not kidding at all
jewell is a great trigger -but-
they don't make one for a savage
only ones I know of is RB & SSS
RB is OK -SSS no comment
accu trigger is the best 2 stage trigger design period....
and NO ONE has a safer -more sear- design
NO ONE

 

[CatShooter]

You have to be kidding. I have a Jewel, that is good to 1.5 oz, and the bolt can be slammed hard, the butt bumped and the stock slapped without it going off. I have a Bix N'Andy that will go to half of that safely. There isn't a factory trigger in the world including any thing that Savage makes that can touch either one.

What Boyd said... I have four rifles that have Jewells in them - 2 to 3 ounces, working safety, and they can be pounded all day long and not release.

not kidding at all
jewell is a great trigger -but-
they don't make one for a savage
and NO ONE has a safer -more sear- design
NO ONE

Which is a perfect reason to not buy a Savage (not discounting the fact that they are ugly, and have the profile of a Vetterli !!)

 

[BoydAllen]

Sorry, I was in Remington mode. I have to say that my SAV II, that was made not long after they came out, worked pretty well, and the safety functioned as it should, but that is no guarantee that current production is as good. That was a long time ago.