Buy a Hornady one piece 6PPC FL die. That way you will be sizing your used brass all the way to the shoulder, instead of leaving an unsized segment nearest the shoulder, as all bushing dies, except Neal Jones' do. The ID of the neck of the die is about .2575. You have neck thickness and 1" mic.s right? If not, get them. If you don't have a piece of fired brass that you know came from your rifle, you will need to make one. Check your loaded round neck diamenter, over the base of the bullet, if it is a flat base. Once you have this dimension, you can use something like the Hornady headspace gauge (dial caliper attachment to determine what the shoulder to head dimension of fired brass is. A good stout load, and a case that has only been neck sized for a couple of firings should get you near the maximum value. Always use a punch to remove the fired primer before taking the measurement. Now you have a way to set up your Hornady one piece die, without bumping the shoulders too far in the process. For this one time, you will need to put a little bump on all of your cases, so you may have to allow a shorter measurement than the usual .001 or less standard bump, perhaps as much as .025. Start long and remeasure. Start with your least fired cases, they will will bump with the die in its highest relative positon. After you run them all through at this setting, measure their bump, or lack of, and sort into groups that will require a very slight die adjustment,due to their greater spring back, due to more work hardening. You should leave them in these groups for all further use. Having done all of this (sans expander ball) you will have FL sized cases that have their necks sized to their shoulders and various neck IDs. Next you will clean the inside of the necks. and expand them for turning. Don't take all of the powder fouling out. Leave a thin and uniform appearing haze, this will help the liquid lube prevent brass transfer to the turning mandrel. Use a carbide mandrel. You will thank me. I have used several different expanding/turning lubes. Many work, and many are a pain to remove. RCBS Case Lube II works and is water soluble. When turning I like to drive the case holder with a cordless drill set on low speed range, and not get trigger happy. I put a little lube on the mandrel before doing the first case, dab some on from time to time while processing the whole lot, this in addition to the lube that I applied to the inside of the necks before expanding them (Q-tip) I like to hold the drill and the turning tool so that they can self align. Let them wobble. In an effort to keep the neck tightly pinned to the mandrel during the entire time that it is over the neck, to reduce thickness runout, I rush the cut when moving to the shoulder, take the thinnest possible cut on the shoulder with the leading bevel on the cutter, and come back out slow enough to make a well finished cut. I do not go back. One more thing, if you decide to bump the shoulder of an unfireformed case, go slow, and use the rifle as your gauge, leaving some feel on bolt close. Ordinarily, I am against setting dies by feel, this being one of the few exceptions. That should get you started.
