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Reticle jump when dry firing

Not that I am aware of. I was in the same boat as you. It will take you no time to make the adjustment. You will see the results on your target.
 
Not that I am aware of. I was in the same boat as you. It will take you no time to make the adjustment. You will see the results on your target.
Any suggestions on a good br trigger? Wanted a Jewell before I got the TT, but they seem to never be in stock.
 
Really this is the whole point of dry firing. If you have a mechanical issue obviously you need to track it down and fix it. otherwise it is a technique or method fault on your behalf and also needs to be worked on to minimize or eliminate the movement,

In the days before scopes or at least in the old full boar days guys would place a penny on the end of the barrel and practice dry fire with the aim of the penny not falling off. A hard task with the old MK1-3 303 the triggers on those make all triggers of any rifle made today look like precision custom triggers.
 
Any suggestions on a good br trigger? Wanted a Jewell before I got the TT, but they seem to never be in stock.
Unfortunately, there are not many choices and they all are more expensive than Jewells. I would get a Bix trigger. Sometimes you can catch used ones on this site and save a little money.

You may be able to get a used Jewell off the site. If you can and it is in good working order, do not hesitate to buy one if one comes up. I still have Jewells on a couple of rifles and they work flawlessly. I could change them out to Bix triggers since I have two or three spares. I just have seen no reason to do so.
 
Unfortunately, there are not many choices and they all are more expensive than Jewells. I would get a Bix trigger. Sometimes you can catch used ones on this site and save a little money.

You may be able to get a used Jewell off the site. If you can and it is in good working order, do not hesitate to buy one if one comes up. I still have Jewells on a couple of rifles and they work flawlessly. I could change them out to Bix triggers since I have two or three spares. I just have seen no reason to do so.
You may not be aware of this option. I have one and it works just fine.
 
Mile High Shooting has its Trigger Tech Diamonds on sale for $250. With tax added, I paid $267, with free shipping.
 
@BoydAllen you're the man! Looks like they have great reviews. Think ill pick one up for my new build.

@nmkid nice! Thank you. I'll probably get one for the 6br I have right now. Thats a really good deal.
 
Just remember, IMO a 2 to 6 oz. trigger has no place in the field. Even at the range it is important to only load your rifle after it is on the bench, and aimed at a target during a time when the range is hot. That way, an accidental disccharge will not be a danger to anyone. Light triggers take some getting used to, not only when firing, but when handling the rifle. You may have been lightly brushing the trigger during loading and not realize it. With a very light trigger you will quickly become aware that that happened. At benchrest matches, before a shooter leaves the line he is required to remove his bolt. For that reason bolt holsters are common. I think that it is a good practice for all who have rifles with very light triggers. This is not to say that light triggers require light handling of the rifle or bolt. When installing and or adjusting mine I do the bump the butt solidly on the carpet, close the bolt very hard repeatedly and slap the comb with great force tests, and none of my light triggers fail to hold cock from these tests. They are light by design, with different internal parts than standard triggers.
 
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@BoydAllen great info! I'll probably end up using a shilen trigger in my 30br buold for now. If I rrally like it,then I'll definetly keep it. I'll start it out at 6 oz until I'm completely comfortable then move down. I'll be dry firing alot before I even take it out.
 
I check reticle jump when dry firing every time I set up. If it noticeably moves I adjust the butt in the rear bag, doing that i can stabilize it. Whether that matters on target I cannot prove, it does matter between the ears.
How do you adjust he butt in the rear bag?
 
Make sure you’re not influencing the rifle in any way, also make sure that you’re dry firing against a snap cap. That’ll mimic a loaded round and keep the firing pin from hitting home way harder than it would if the rifle was loaded. I get no movement dry firing and I found out that I was touching the rifle in a negative way causing movement when I first started doing this.
 

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