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Rethinking my Plan...

I received a LOT of help over the last couple of weeks on this forum which I greatly appreciate. All of the information has given me a lot to work on and to think about. One of the things I have been considering is whether or not to continue to use my progressive press for precision loading (I apologize if that term makes anyone cringe) - or at least as precision as possible. The thought of dumping a ton of money into new reloading is not on the radar at the time, so for now, I will have to make do. With that being said, I do need/want to at least get a Redding Neck Sizing Die for the .223 I have been asking questions about.

So, if I am considering the Redding die (over the full length RCBS I have now), there is $50 going towards new reloading equipment. Maybe it could be better spent? Lets say for the sake of argument, the brass is perfect and uniform, where is the next weak link in the hardware chain, the dies, the press? Can I make a progressive press and "regular" dies work?

Thank you!

Andy
 
I use a Dillion 550B with the best dies Redding has and weigh my powder charges.
I can produce very accurate ammo, run out is in the .001 range.
I'm happy!
 
That is great to hear! I have a 550B as well. I have the Redding S Type neck bushing dies that I have used for .243 and 7mm SAUM. Are you referring to the micrometer dies?

Thank you!

Andy
 
Get a Full length bushing die, forget neck sizing only.

Your progressive press will work well, no need to upgrade.
 
Erik,

Great videos y the way!!!

I apologize for so many questions... What is the advantage of full length resizing over neck sizing only if the cases will be used in the same rifle?

Thank you!

Andy
 
The difference is consistency. When you F/L size and bump the shoulder ~.002", you will do the same every time and you will be able to chamber/extract with ease. This will not upset your set up while working the bolt.

Neck sizing only will work for a few firings, but at some point you will have to F/L size, which means brass keeps growing and you will not be consistent with your reloading steps every time. Also, if you neck size only, you are not sizing the base of the case, and when it gets away from you you will get a click when extracting because the base will be too tight in your chamber. At that point you have to F/L size and also use a small base die in hopes to get base sized down. Sometimes it's so hard that it won't work, so you will need to throw that brass away and buy new brass.
 
To add to what Erik said, there are always tradeoffs to look at for your situation. If shooting full-power or top-end loads, full-length sizing is the way to go. Getting a custom or semi-custom full length die is the way to go (like a Harrel's) and far better, and not that much more in cost, than an off-the-shelf die for most chambers - unless you happen to have a minimum-dimension match chamber with which factory dies can do O.K. If you don't feel the need to really push your loads, and for whatever reason, opt to get a factory die, I'd opt for not full-length sizing and probably get a bushing neck die like a Forster "bump die". Personally, I'd rather have my brass remain fireformed to my chamber for a good fit unless my loads prove too much and maintenance makes it not worthwhile. The customs don't oversize. Use a factory full-length die and you remove the nice fit formed to your chamber for the sake of controlling your bases. Which is "worse" depends upon your load and whether you are willing to buy a die that does it all. Outside of semi-autos, I'd tend to pass on a factory full-length sizing die, bushed or not. This is not an area where one method is best (outside of a custom die).
 
If you are going to use a standard "off the rack" FL die, it will beat the hell out of your cases, and lead to head separations - it is nearly impossible to control the shoulder to 0.002" with a $20 die.

If you aren't going to use custom FL dies, you are far better off with a neck die - your cases will last a looooooong time, and accuracy will not suffer.
 
The rifle I am working with is an off the shelf Remington Model 7. Considering I am shooting a factory rifle, I don't know if the custom die route is an option or may provide something that my rifle will negate??? So, if I understand correctly, F/L resizing controls a few variables and makes the brass last longer? N/S causes the brass to become work hardened and excessive expansion of the case head?

Thank you!

Andy
 
titanxt said:
The rifle I am working with is an off the shelf Remington Model 7. Considering I am shooting a factory rifle, I don't know if the custom die route is an option or may provide something that my rifle will negate??? So, if I understand correctly, F/L resizing controls a few variables and makes the brass last longer? N/S causes the brass to become work hardened and excessive expansion of the case head?

Thank you!

Andy

No... for an "Off the shelf"" Rem M-7, use a neck die - the Off The Rack, FL die will over work your cases and eventually cause head separations.

Make life simple, and don't spend a few hundred on dies you will nveer see any advantage from.
 
I posted a picture of my current reloading setup in the "Introduce Yourself" thread. Here is a picture of the Model 7 I have been talking about:

100_4527_zps7a808e8d.jpg


Here is a picture of the target I shot yesterday with the first group looking promising.

100_4531_zps506767a8.jpg


That first group was 24.0 grains of 2230. I realized after I got home that I messed up the ladder test in two ways - I loaded groups of three similar charged rounds, and I should have used a single, larger target. With the issue I have with run out on a good number of the cartridges, it was mainly some shooting practice I guess. I have a few things on order, as well as I have been sorting some brass that have necks with .001 run out or less. A few that pushed .002 were set aside in case I don't have enough. I will load these up, measure the loaded round for run out and head back to the range.

Andy
 
Looks to me like you are poking in the dark trying to hit on a load that shoots well. You must do a proper load work up to make sure you don't skip over any accuracy nodes.

Try this method.
http://forum.accurateshooter.com/index.php?topic=3814361.0
 
You make a valid point, Erik, and my last trip to the range was not productive. Thank you for the link - I will get to reading.

Thank you!

Andy
 

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