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Resized brass should i just throw them away??

When I was just starting to reload I resized some .223 brass just doing as the instructions said by adjusting the die down till it touches the shell holder.. Then I got side tracked and started loading and shooting nothing but 9mm and .45..Since then I have learned that since iam loadng for an ar15 auto loader I should only work the brass as little as possible.. After using a hornady headspace comparator it seems that the brass fired out of the gun is measuring 3.466 or so, but the brass I resized came out 3.456 iam going to start loading some range ammo for it finally so I checked it...

From what i have read all I need to do is go from 3.466 to like 3.460 for it to work in an auto loader. Should I just toss the 3.456 brass and start over? Or do you think it will be safe to fire it then not full length size so much next time? Most people just say since its such a small case just shoot it till the neck splits or it won't hold a primer any more..

Thanks in advance for taking time to look at this mess..
 
Full length resize it every time at the stage in the game your at. Then trim the brass to the same lengths, chamfer and de burr.

Make sure you screw the die in till it hits the shell holder, then back it off a turn. You didnt mention you even set the die up right. Learn basics first before trying to go more advanced.

You can fuck shit up fast by not staying focused and skipping around with doing other things... once you start stay focused.
 
First let me say that you need to size more for the AR15 than for a bolt gun. You do not want any interference fit in an auto loader. It looks like you bumped the shoulder by 0.010 which is more than necessary even for the AR15. Most folks bump 0.002 to 0.003 for this application. The risk is head separation for the excessive bump. It is up to you if you decide to risk that happening.
 
Here's what the instructions say for setting up these Lee .223 FL dies..

Of course raise the ram ,screw the FL die down till it touches the shell holder, then lower the ram and screw it in another 1/4 to 1/3 of a turn more.
Then lock the lock ring in place.. Aim sure even though it been a year ago that I followed these instructions..

And case head separation is what scares me the most.. There's a few hundred done like this and I don't mind tossing them if it's even close to couseing a problem. I will just chalk it up to learning..
 
Here's what the instructions say for setting up these Lee .223 FL dies..

Of course raise the ram ,screw the FL die down till it touches the shell holder, then lower the ram and screw it in another 1/4 to 1/3 of a turn more.
Then lock the lock ring in place.. Aim sure even though it been a year ago that I followed these instructions..

And case head separation is what scares me the most.. There's a few hundred done like this and I don't mind tossing them if it's even close to couseing a problem. I will just chalk it up to learning..
You may have done everything exactly correct but the tolerances on your die and shell holder are such that you get excessive bump. In the future, resize one case and measure, if you get too much bump, back the die by a fraction of a turn and try another case. This is an iterative process and you need to check it each time you resize.
 
Unless you want stuck brass, in the AR chamber, I suggest you purchase a small base die and FULL length resize as others have said
 
Do a Google search on "Skip Design DIY annealing machine", read the long post on the AR-15 forum, build a machine for yourself, and anneal every time.
 
You may have done everything exactly correct but the tolerances on your die and shell holder are such that you get excessive bump. In the future, resize one case and measure, if you get too much bump, back the die by a fraction of a turn and try another case. This is an iterative process and you need to check it each time you resize.

Thank you, I will next time for sure, at the time I knew no better.. After rechecking it looks like most are around .008 pushback instead of 10. After fire forming I will re-inspect and bump it back .003 to .005. I think this should be ok. I checked some same factory brass and its about .004 difference.... I have bought all the equipment over the time I thought I would need when this time came..run out tools, headspace gauges etc..

If the need for small base dies instead of the full length I'm useing comes up ,i will purchase them no problem..

Once again thank you for your time, its much appreciated... I hope one day I can return the favor...
 
You could load them for another rifle like a bolt gun and set the bullets out to touch the rifling to fire form them back to original size. At the price for used .223 brass like lake city or Winchester then scrapping it would be the route or give them to someone who is shooting 300 blackout or a shorter wildcat so someone can use them. Or if your throat isn't way out in the ar you could try and see if the bullet could be set out and shoot them single load only. Make sure you mark what ever this brass is in so it doesn't accidently get mixed up with good brass.
 
I reload for the M14 and I bump the sholder 0.004 to 0.006 on each resizing. I reload them three times and then throw them away. I have reloaded four times with no problems but on the fifth time I get an occasional case head separation. So I figure my "budget" for case stretch is 0.020 to 0.030 total. This is with the 308 but may give you a rule of thumb for the 223.
 
What Zillla said and anneal all your brass.It is not rock science but the old fashioned stuff called common sense. When you commence reloading do nothing else including turning off all distractions. It is your face next to the chamber or worse your press.Nitrocellulose takes no prisoners.
 
I have the lee full length die set but today I went and picked up a set of rcbs AR small base dies just for safety...
 
I have the lee full length die set but today I went and picked up a set of rcbs AR small base dies just for safety...
If your AR has the Wylde chamber specs you dont need small base dies. Many manufactureres are using this chamber design. If it does not cycle properly then maybe then use the AR type dies.
 
If your AR has the Wylde chamber specs you dont need small base dies. Many manufactureres are using this chamber design. If it does not cycle properly then maybe then use the AR type dies.
I would recommend the small base dies for the military style gas operated semi auto like the M14 and the AR15. They provide a little insurance on functioning.
 
Ok I got the die set to push the shoulder back the .003 to 4 as stated above using the ar series rcbs s/b dies , iam am also getting firm contact or cam over on the shell holder. All trimmed to same length and the unloaded cases slide in and out of my chamber easly and the bolt carrier group closes. So I think iam good.

I have a few questions still and I think iam good to go.. I only did about 16 for a test run...

1. What happens if I don't push the shoulder back far enough? What should I look for? Or will the bcg just not close?

2. Since the die is backed out a bit more than the rcbs directions say to set it up, is it still full length sizeing down as far as it should? Seems like it is, as stated above..
 
2. Since the die is backed out a bit more than the rcbs directions say to set it up, is it still full length sizeing down as far as it should? Seems like it is, as stated above..
If your bolt carrier is closing/locking up you have sized it enough.
 
Ok I got the die set to push the shoulder back the .003 to 4 as stated above using the ar series rcbs s/b dies , iam am also getting firm contact or cam over on the shell holder. All trimmed to same length and the unloaded cases slide in and out of my chamber easly and the bolt carrier group closes. So I think iam good.

I have a few questions still and I think iam good to go.. I only did about 16 for a test run...

1. What happens if I don't push the shoulder back far enough? What should I look for? Or will the bcg just not close?

2. Since the die is backed out a bit more than the rcbs directions say to set it up, is it still full length sizeing down as far as it should? Seems like it is, as stated above..
It sounds like you are good to go, the bolt closes freely on the resized case. Not all dies size the same but effortless chambering is what you are looking for. I use the small base dies for the AR and the M14 just to give me a little extra margin on functioning, I think it is a good practice but some will not agree.
 
If you bumped the shoulder too much they will pop back the neck time you fire them. It may throw off your accuracy and the decreased case volume can increase pressure (you should be near max pressure anyway).

I only bump the shoulders 0.002" on my AR. I'm using a Redding competition FL non-bushing die and have a CLE chamber (similar to a wydle). The neck tension is a little much but it works.

The worse case failure (outsize of over pressure issues) you can have on an AR is a case head separation. Typically I load case about 10 times and toss them. You can use a paper clip or buy a fancy gauge to inspect cases for head stress but that's a huge waste of time.
 
If you bumped the shoulder too much they will pop back the neck time you fire them. It may throw off your accuracy and the decreased case volume can increase pressure (you should be near max pressure anyway).

I only bump the shoulders 0.002" on my AR. I'm using a Redding competition FL non-bushing die and have a CLE chamber (similar to a wydle). The neck tension is a little much but it works.

The worse case failure (outsize of over pressure issues) you can have on an AR is a case head separation. Typically I load case about 10 times and toss them. You can use a paper clip or buy a fancy gauge to inspect cases for head stress but that's a huge waste of time.

Thanks for your time,, case head separation scares me in the AR platform. I have the rcbs case master tool so I will be checking..lol. I only plan on pushing these around 3000fps. Which is like 23gr of tac till I get comfortable with it. I have reloaded thousands of pistol rounds with zero problems but I spend a lot of time reloading. Measuring everything at least three times and useing chamber gauges plus super careful weighing charges..

It takes me forever to load a box of anything..most are plinkers and my buddies laugh at me for taking so many precautions and making every round pretty much match grade even 9mm target loads but you can never be to careful and if you gonna spend that kinda time you might as well make good ammo.. And be safe about it... When I started this thread the brass I pushed back to far was when I just started and was getting used to the equipment. Then I started shooting a ton of pistol and never got back to rifle. By now, a few years latter I knew I screwed them up and was just asking how bad..lol

Iam not willing to even take the slightest chance of hurting a $1500 rifle over $20 worth of brass..
 
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