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Resin- for wooden block barrel vice

Any substitute products in the shop that would work well? I have some pine trees out back, I could just get some drippings ;) That is where resin comes from.... The barrel came off fine but I had to retighten a couple times to prevent slipping. I did NOT want to crank it down all the way 1st try, I am sure I could crack or deform my oak blocks, even if they are 2"x3"x3". The replacement barrel has a polished finish, maybe more difficult to keep from slipping. Per the action wrench manufacture do not tighten to a torque spec. Use a 3 foot pipe and give it a good snap. A "snap" it easy for him to say with years of experience and just a FEEL for it. I have a good idea what he means, just want to ensure the barrel does not spin, thus less torque with my "snap". FYI I will be using anti seize vs grease or Loctite.
Thanks
Troy
 
I have used a rosin from a bag designed for bowlers. Worked OK. Any bowling alley will sell them just make sure that you get the one that adds grip. They also make one that allows the ball to slip easier. They are cheap , usually under $5. Smaller version of what they use on pitchers mounds.
 
Larryh128 said:
I have used a rosin from a bag designed for bowlers. Worked OK. Any bowling alley will sell them just make sure that you get the one that adds grip. They also make one that allows the ball to slip easier. They are cheap , usually under $5. Smaller version of what they use on pitchers mounds.

We gethere powdered rpsin as used by weightlfters or climbers. A jar last a lifetime. I always interposed a piece pf leather rosin-coated between blocks and barrel.

As an adept of light barrel tightening torques, never encountered a problem in fitting barrels....Removing old ones was an other question.

R.G.C
 
Powdered sugar works just as well as rosin. A word on your wooden blocks, don't worry about deforming them. That is the benefit of using wood, it conforms perfectly to the shape of the barrel. They will crack and deform but they'll hold very well with a little rosin or sugar. Blocks are easy to come by and cost nearly nothing. Crank it down tight so it doesn't slip.
 
I have a full bag of resin - its more than I can use in a lifetime.
It works great and leaves no marks on a blued barrel.
I can throw some in a baggie in an envelope and mail to you.
I did use a piece of brown paper bag that I coated with the resin between the blocks and the barrel (like the leather suggestion).
I also crushed the resin fine between my fingers before applying.
I used a Surgeon internal action wrench (inside wrench) that works great with a torque wrench (700 action)
PM me your info and I'll send you some.

I am curious why the action wrench manufacturer said not to torque to a spec.
 
wnyhunter said:
I have a full bag of resin - its more than I can use in a lifetime.
It works great and leaves no marks on a blued barrel.
I can throw some in a baggie in an envelope and mail to you.
I did use a piece of brown paper bag that I coated with the resin between the blocks and the barrel (like the leather suggestion).
I also crushed the resin fine between my fingers before applying.
I used a Surgeon internal action wrench (inside wrench) that works great with a torque wrench (700 action)
PM me your info and I'll send you some.

I am curious why the action wrench manufacturer said not to torque to a spec.

Thanks a bunch for the offer. I will get back to you. I hope the recoil lug alignment tool is here tomorrow, if so I just need to try it with the leather trick, impatient. I will mark the barrel to see if ANY slipping happened.
Torque specs? I don't know. I specifically asked because I could weld a socket to the wrench and use a torque wrench to get a consistent result. "Hart & son?" said it does not make a diff, they tried tigher looser and in between. Just put a 3 foot pipe on it give it a good hard yank-spin....done.
 
No problem.
If you get a chance it would be great to see some pix of your final result.
I have seen a lot of guys on both sides of the 'torque' question.
For me it is a way to ensure repeatability.
 
Try this. Get a touch up paint bottle from a paint store or a place that sell auto painitng supplies. The kind with a brush in the cap. Dump powdered rosin from the bowlers bag in bottle and top off with iso alcohol 91%. 25-75 ratio works good. 1 ounce mixture will last a couple lifetimes. Shake into a slurry and brush on the barrel where the bushing will ride. Let alcohol evaporate and you will have a very thin, even coating of rosin. Wipes clean with a cloth dampened with alcohol.

MUCH less messy than fooling around with dry rosin. That stuff gets everywhere.

When putting on a polished barrel, a thin piece of paper between the bushing and barrel will prevent any marks.
Just put it on snap-tight like the Hart folks said. No need to get all wrapped around the axle with esoteric torque settings.
 
Great info! Thanks for the information. Just a thought..... It might cause more grief than it is worth to put a powdered substance in an unmarked bag and send it through the mail. Nothing probably would happen but if it was accidentally torn open... :-\
 
Thanks again for all the replies
I also was worried about sending that white powdery substance in the mail I didn't want to get anyone into trouble. Recoil log tool has not come yet so I'm still waiting on the assembly. I will try to post some pictures later
Thanks
Troy
 
Clean up with sugar or powdered sugar is easy.....you can just lick it off. You can't do that with rosin. ;D
 
I use plain white paper, one piece on each block of wood in vise. Then the other day we used regular vise with flat wood and a rag, held perfect installing barrel, but removing I used my blocks and white paper on smooth CBI barrel.
 

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