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Replacing firing pin spring in match guns

memilanuk

Gold $$ Contributor
So... recently someone was having some issues with wonky ES numbers from one of their match guns with a known-good load. The ES would consistently start out single digit for a few shots, then jump to ~20, then to ~30+. The problem was isolated to that specific gun - i.e. consistent across different range sessions, different chronographs, other guns across same chronographs did *not* exhibit the errant behavior, etc. The ES would consistently start out single digit for a few shots, then jump to ~20, then to ~30+.

After discussing things back and forth a bit, I was at a loss. Knowing that this shooter uses a custom action, I tossed out the only thing I had left - that once upon a time, a very experienced and renowned shooter had told me that he changed out the firing pin springs in his rifles (custom actions) every year whether they needed it or not, to avoid ignition issues leading to erratic ES. At the time it was relayed to me, I viewed with a healthy dose of skepticism - I'd never heard such a thing anywhere before or since, and had at the time probably 6 years and 10k+ rounds on one particular factory action, and plenty of rounds through many others with no observed erratic behavior. With that qualifier, I passed along the suggestion.

Lo and behold... it worked. He swapped out the firing pin spring for an original, and the ES dropped dramatically, and stayed there for the whole string. Afterwards, he talked with another top-level shooter who uses similar custom actions who said yes, they changed the firing pin springs every couple barrels, or X number of rounds (few thousand). But in talking with another good shooter who runs factory actions, the response was the same as mine - nope, never done it, haven't noticed any problems indicating that I should.

Which kind of begs the question... for those of you shooting serious competition with a bolt gun, regardless of venue (conventional HP, F-class, long or short range BR, whatever) - do you routinely replace the firing ping spring in your rifle? What kind of action are you using - custom (i.e. Panda, BAT, Borden, etc.), factory (e.g. Savage, Remington, etc.) or semi-custom (i.e. Rem700 clone w/ OEM style bolt e.g. Stiller TAC30)? If you use more than one of the above in competition, have you noticed any difference (with regards to the longevity of the firing pin spring; lets keep it on topic!)?

I for one am kind of curious as to why it sounds like (at least some of) the custom actions may have springs that are perhaps more consistent up front, but appear to have a much shorter life span. Or am I drawing entirely the wrong conclusion from the observations above?

Monte
 
Dusty Stevens said:
Br shooters may change their springs 4x in one season

Is that particular to any specific brand of action - Kelbly, Stiller, BAT? If you used to shoot BR with an old 700 or 40X, did you do the same with it?
 
Any idea where a factory action such a Remington 700 or Savage short action falls in terms of those numbers?

Another observation, not sure if its related: one of my Savage target actions has a somewhat annoying tendency for the BAS (bolt assembly screw, the big allen bolt at the back) to come loose from time to time during a string - to the point that it backs out a couple turns, to where I start noticing the bolt 'click' a little as it opens. I've tightened it down pretty snug, but short of loc-titing the dang thing it keeps coming loose. Anywho, the relevant bit is this: while I've never intentionally 'tested' it per se, I've noticed over time that it shoots really well at distance when its that loose - fairly tight vertical on a 1k F-class target. Enough to where I've thought a bit about looking into a bit more seriously in practice and with a chrono.
 
memilanuk said:
Another observation, not sure if its related: one of my Savage target actions has a somewhat annoying tendency for the BAS (bolt assembly screw, the big allen bolt at the back) to come loose from time to time during a string - to the point that it backs out a couple turns, to where I start noticing the bolt 'click' a little as it opens. I've tightened it down pretty snug, but short of loc-titing the dang thing it keeps coming loose. Anywho, the relevant bit is this: while I've never intentionally 'tested' it per se, I've noticed over time that it shoots really well at distance when its that loose - fairly tight vertical on a 1k F-class target. Enough to where I've thought a bit about looking into a bit more seriously in practice and with a chrono.
I had one that would come loose quite often, and I mostly noticed it in the middle of a match. I always wondered if it could cause any issues, but I sure never noticed it on the target.
 
jdne5b said:
memilanuk said:
Another observation, not sure if its related: one of my Savage target actions has a somewhat annoying tendency for the BAS (bolt assembly screw, the big allen bolt at the back) to come loose from time to time during a string - to the point that it backs out a couple turns, to where I start noticing the bolt 'click' a little as it opens. I've tightened it down pretty snug, but short of loc-titing the dang thing it keeps coming loose. Anywho, the relevant bit is this: while I've never intentionally 'tested' it per se, I've noticed over time that it shoots really well at distance when its that loose - fairly tight vertical on a 1k F-class target. Enough to where I've thought a bit about looking into a bit more seriously in practice and with a chrono.
I had one that would come loose quite often, and I mostly noticed it in the middle of a match. I always wondered if it could cause any issues, but I sure never noticed it on the target.

For certain, this is a known issue on the Barnard actions and will definitely induce vertical if the bolt cap comes loose, causing inconsistent primer strikes.
 
the other half of the equation is the primer, hard primers (BR, magnum and Russian) are more sensitive to weak firing pin springs
 
Jay Christopherson said:
For certain, this is a known issue on the Barnard actions and will definitely induce vertical if the bolt cap comes loose, causing inconsistent primer strikes.

I can second this. Had a frustrating time before I discovered this little quirk of the Barnard. I found that keeping the threads dry and cranking it tight seemed to help keep it from loosening. Seems like a design flaw - a minor one if you know about it, but still a little annoying. But I do love that you can take the bolt apart without tools or gymnastics.
 
Once upon a time, I used a pair of Quadlocks, an RPA Paramount and a QuadLight action for my Palma shooting. Never had the slightest bit of ignition problem as long as the firing pin protrusion was .060". 50 pounds of firing pin spring strength will do that.

Once I switched to the Stolle action (Rem bolt pattern), the 32# Wolf had to be replaced annually. At the end of a season, you could see that the Wolf had fatigued and lost some length. The Tubb spring helped alleviate that issue (believe it is 26-28#) and loses very little length over the first season. None thereafter.

Will a weak or fatigued factory Rem spring cause elevation at 1000yds? You bet.
 
I have a Rem 700 factory spring in my 6 Dasher, with about 5,000 rounds on the spring. Shooting hot loads, cratering pretty good now. Primer pockets open up about 4 loadings. Thinking about installing 28 lb. Wolff spring. Any contra indications on doing this?
 
I use Wolff 32# springs with lightened firing pins in my Pandas. Wolff and other high performance springs tend to get a set and lose strength being compressed over a period of time. I'm concerned with energy and lock time. I replace my springs at least once a year and/or before a big match like Nationals or International matches. 6-8 bucks for a new spring is cheap insurance.
Tom Whitaker
 
Monte M are you using a Nate L lift kit in your savages ? You can back them out for light primer strikes and adjust them forward to where you want.For hot loads the bolt also lifts alot better.
 

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