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Replace firing pin spring for Mauser 98?

gambleone

Silver $$ Contributor
Thinking of replacing the firing pin spring in my Mauser 98. Curious if anyone has used these in a 98 & if
there worth changing. Mine is the original spring & it's curled up a bit & I feel friction when removing it from the bolt.
I have buffed the cocking ramp & greased it. I'm wondering if this new spring will lighten the bolt lift. It's supposed to help with lock time also.

Will a replacement Tubb chrome silicon firing pin spring help?
 
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Thinking of replacing the firing pin spring in my Mauser 98. Curious if anyone has used these in a 98 & if
there worth changing. Mine is the original spring & it's curled up a bit & I feel friction when removing it from the bolt.
I have buffed the cocking ramp & greased it. I'm wondering if this new spring will lighten the bolt lift. It's supposed to help with lock time also.
put a 26 # wolff spring in it.
 
I've done a bunch of Mausers and everyone of them has a 26# wolff spring, If you have heavy bolt lift the issue most likely is the cocking piece or an incorrect cocking piece.
 
With some rifles you have to decide if you want a good shooting rifle or an easy holy lift.
I have cured more than one bad shooting Benchrest Rifle with nothing more than getting the static spring pressure where it should be.
Appreciate the info Jackie. Will replace spring.
 
If your Mauser has a heavier spring and a modern style trigger, you can usually reduce striker fall by a good bit. I think the original fall is 11mm(7/16"ish), I have had great success reducing that below 8mm(5/16"ish). Still works in -30C, which is more than I can say of myself...

Edit to add: I also did lower the cocking cam at the same time, but that might not be necessary.
 
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I highly recommend a Speedlock firing pin or equivalent - Tubb no longer sells them, but there may be others available on the market. The firing pin in my pre-WWII Oberndorf Mauser '98 was very heavy, which made the lock time glacial. A lighter spring with the much lighter firing pin will give good ignition; it's firing pin speed more than energy (within limits) that produces reproducible and reliable ignition. The spring that came with my Speedlock pin is substantially lighter than the factory version.
 
I highly recommend a Speedlock firing pin or equivalent - Tubb no longer sells them, but there may be others available on the market. The firing pin in my pre-WWII Oberndorf Mauser '98 was very heavy, which made the lock time glacial. A lighter spring with the much lighter firing pin will give good ignition; it's firing pin speed more than energy (within limits) that produces reproducible and reliable ignition. The spring that came with my Speedlock pin is substantially lighter than the factory version.
ive searched some but havent been able to find a speedlock pin available for m98. ill keep looking. i just put a std wolfe spring in a 98 i have but mabie i should have got a heavier spring.
 
Back in the good ol' days it was common practice to cut grooves in the body of the pin to lighten it up. Roy Dunlap talked about doing it, but I can't remember how much mass was being removed.
 
Back in the good ol' days it was common practice to cut grooves in the body of the pin to lighten it up. Roy Dunlap talked about doing it, but I can't remember how much mass was being removed.
i was thinking of that but id like to get a second pin to hack on. shouldntb 2 difficult. i have dunlaps book to- ill see if anything in there. thanks
 

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