removing tempilaq

[guidom]

how do you remove tempilaq after the annealing process in finished? i know it is extremely hard to remove. that is why i do not put in inside the neck.

 

[michaelnel]

After testing with it to determine timing, I don't use it at all.

 

[Jdne5b]

A rag with mineral spirits or a trip through the tumbler works for me

 

[jcampbellsmith]

how do you remove tempilaq after the annealing process in finished? i know it is extremely hard to remove. that is why i do not put in inside the neck.

A very good question. To date I have manually cleaned the test cases with plastic steel wool. In future I plan to anneal, then steel pins tumble.

Regards

JCS

 

[nosualc]

How many are you putting tempilaq on?

For every cartridge (e.g. .308 win) I anneal, I just have 3-4 cull cases that I re-use during set up. After a few times, I toss 'em into a case cleaner to get em clean again, but the cases themselves are dedicated to annealing set up.

I use a machine, so after set up, the next 200 or so cases don't need tempilaq.

-nosualc

 

[Sniper338]

I anneal my brass then drop it strait into my ultrasonic cleaner, when I am done annealing I just turn on the sonic cleaner... I havent found a better way. one step right to the next.

 

[sparky123321]

As long as you don't allow the flame to actually contact the tempilaq it normally cleans up easily. It's actually not supposed be in the flame from what I've been told. I used to have the same problem until I read a post by another member on this forum on this same topic.

 

[Scott Harris]

I have a handful of spent cases that are used (over and over) with tempilaq to set up the annealing machine. I don't put tempilaq on any cases I plan on using to shoot with....

 

[jcampbellsmith]

how do you remove tempilaq after the annealing process in finished? i know it is extremely hard to remove. that is why i do not put in inside the neck.

A very good question. To date I have manually cleaned the test cases with plastic steel wool. In future I plan to anneal, then steel pins tumble.

Regards

JCS

Update. I annealed some brass last night and then wet tumbled it with steel pins. Brass looks good for resizing. Regards JCS

 

[xdeano]

Acetone or fingernail polish remover work well
Xdeano

 

[Barlow]

I put it on the lower shoulder and remove it using my Sinclair case spinner and metal polishing cloth. Barlow

 

[amlevin]

I prefer to set my annealing time using a Tempilstik heat crayon. Since I don't use a machine I just see how much time it takes to make the shoulder hot enough to start melting the crayon when I touch it to a case. Out of the flame and a quick touch will tell me instantly. Only a slight smear is left on the case. and it can be removed with a scrape of a thumbnail.

Once I have the correct time for the torches current flame setting the crayon goes back in the drawer. I use the 750 degree crayon and my annealed cases seem to be lasting forever (or at least until the primer pockets finally give out).

 

[Nalgi]

After 40 years of reloading, I have the timing down. It takes 5 sec for a 223 case and 8 seconds for medium case.

 

[snakepit]

After 40 years of reloading, I have the timing down. It takes 5 sec for a 223 case and 8 seconds for medium case.

You did not say but I assume you are using a single torch setup.

 

[Road_Clam]

I chuck my casings in my benchtop drill press and give the necks a quick polish with med 3M Scotchbrite pads. This allows for easily spotting small cracks and also quick removal of Tempilstik residue.