Removing Scope Bases

[Sly One]

I recently purchased a very nice, custom, lightweight rifle built on a Remington 700 action in 6mm Remington. It was built in the mid-70’s and has 2-piece Redfield bases. I want to use Talley mounts.

The problem is the Allen screws holding the bases will not budge with moderate force. I think that the builder may have used a Loctite product.

Any suggestions as to how to remove the bases?

 

[muleystalker]

Heat is your friend... Pull action out of the stock and hit it with a heat gun. I have also put a long screw diver on screws and heat the screw driver so the heat travels to the screw.

 

[jds holler]

AND -- don't sabotage your efforts by using poor fitting cheesy, limber allen wrenches that are gonna slip, bend or break. jd

 

[jwv2001]

AND -- don't sabotage your efforts by using poor fitting cheesy, limber allen wrenches that are gonna slip, bend or break. jd

I second this. They make wrenches that are hardened and machined. They are sized right with sharp corners so they will not slip. Way better that the forged or extruded. like most other allen wrenches.

 

[ShtrRdy]

I second this. They make wrenches that are hardened and machined. They are sized right with sharp corners so they will not slip. Way better that the forged or extruded. like most other allen wrenches.

Where do you buy Allen wrenches like you've described?

 

[ELR LVR]

I recently purchased a very nice, custom, lightweight rifle built on a Remington 700 action in 6mm Remington. It was built in the mid-70’s and has 2-piece Redfield bases. I want to use Talley mounts.

The problem is the Allen screws holding the bases will not budge with moderate force. I think that the builder may have used a Loctite product.

Any suggestions as to how to remove the bases?

Propane Torch man
It wont hurt the blueing
Drop a little drop of Red ATF on top of the screws first then heat until it bubbles
Put a small amount of force on immediately after heating to see if it budges
(Dont heat your allen wrench!!!)
If no budge...
Remove bolt, and apply ATF from bottom in the thread hole then do the same.
---
In such cases usually the heat expands the bolt screw enough to where it is tight in the threads and may need to cool down first before unscrewing
Which is why I suggest applying a "small" amount of pressure, not full loosening pressure....
..... when still hot just to see if you broke the loctite
I do know many people have used loctite and use the wrong type
There is a small screw Purple Loctite that is specific for this type of stuff, and does not need heat
Use that only for small screws if you like Loctite
------------------------
However, using grease I believe is a better method as the tightness of a fastener is limited to the friction in the threads,
When tightening something that is not lubed or greased - thread friction will give the illusion something is getting tighter when actually the bolt/screw is now only twisting due to the torque applied
When using grease, you can actually get something tighter than if dry and not lubed at all
The bonus of greasing threads is also later being able to remove the screws if need be. since the grease will protect from rusting and ease any friction in the threads when reversing as well.

 

[nettle]

Heat will break Loctite down. Easiest is holding a soldering iron tip to the top of the screw. Or heating the tip of the tool you are using to remove the fastener. It doesn't take much.

 

[LuvDog]

Not to be a negative Nelly, but I’ve unfortunately found that sometimes the screws used are also cheap and just give way when heated because the head softens enough too where the torx in the head strips away with pressure if you try the solder iron method.

If you don’t plan to use the 2 piece base then maybe just drill off the heads and use some vise grips to remove the the rest of the screws

 

[CJ6]

I use a pencil style soldering iron because I do use loctite. Hasn't failed me yet.

 

[whatsupdoc]

One of the best tools for applying heat to small areas is my Blue Point Yak10
butane soldering kit.

While this model is discontinued there are similar products available.
There is a micro torch tip that I have used but the hot air blower is perfect
for applying high temperature heat to a very small area.

 

[jwv2001]

Where do you buy Allen wrenches like you've described?

I used to fly RC, and it was critical that all the hex head screws in the control system were tightened to a spec that you were confident with. I bought mine at a hobby shop that deals with RC cars and airplanes. I mostly use them now for adjusting triggers.
I think I bought them at Hobbytown.

 

[hoz53]

Not to be a negative Nelly, but I’ve unfortunately found that sometimes the screws used are also cheap and just give way when heated because the head softens enough too where the torx in the head strips away with pressure if you try the solder iron method.

If you don’t plan to use the 2 piece base then maybe just drill off the heads and use some vise grips to remove the the rest of the screws

ive had to do this when i broke a torx bit off in a base screw.— i try to replace all size 10 torx screws with 15 torx if i can. the 15s are much stronger and ive never stripped one out or broken a bit off in one like i have 10s

 

[jwv2001]

Sometime you will find that the screws are in a bind by the torque of the companion screw. Worse comes to worst, you might have to drill off the screw head. This is the reason I never use any product on the threads of these mounting screws.

 

[jwv2001]

Where do you buy Allen wrenches like you've described?

You maybe SOL buying this anymore except on EBAY. I think they may have gone belly up.
The brand name was Bolink torker. I'll include a photo so you will know what to look for if you are interested. Someone may make something similar.

.

 

[Richard Jones]

I recently purchased a very nice, custom, lightweight rifle built on a Remington 700 action in 6mm Remington. It was built in the mid-70’s and has 2-piece Redfield bases. I want to use Talley mounts.

The problem is the Allen screws holding the bases will not budge with moderate force. I think that the builder may have used a Loctite product.

Any suggestions as to how to remove the bases?

Have used the torch/screwdriver method and it works well, as does the soldering iron, but I like the heat gun better. Had this same situation just the other day, scope base screw would not budge. Just a few seconds with a heat gun warmed it up enough to release. As stated above, it doesn't take much.

 

[chester999]

Heat and candle wax. Worked as a last resort for friends CZ.

 

[AlNyhus]

After you warm it up, get a good 1/4" drive bit and chuck it up in a mill or drill press. With the receiver held securely, and some downward force on the bit, rotate the chuck counter clockwise by hand.

Good shootin' -Al

 

[D Coots]

Some guys have all the cool stuff Al

 

[AlNyhus]

Some guys have all the cool stuff Al

Tools save me when I'm too dumb to stay out of trouble in the first place. -Al