Removing Lube After Resizing

[centershot]

I read the article on this web site regarding the Army using spray lube to size a large number of cases. Other than using a paper towel to do one case at a time, what is the best method to remove the lube after resizing? I roll mine on a pad with RCBS lube, which is water soluable. The article did not mention how the Army did this.

 

[tuttlefarm]

I read the article on this web site regarding the Army using spray lube to size a large number of cases. Other than using a paper towel to do one case at a time, what is the best method to remove the lube after resizing? I roll mine on a pad with RCBS lube, which is water soluable. The article did not mention how the Army did this.

#1 the army does not reload used brass. No quick way other than a tumbler of ultasonic cleaner

 

[eric32]

He is referring to the Army Marksmanship Unit and the article link is below

http://bulletin.accurateshooter.com/2016/06/high-volume-case-lubrication-tips-from-the-usamu/

But removal of lube after sizing can be done with about 30min in the tumbler with some dryer sheet cut up into smaller squares to soak up some of the residue.

 

[watercam]

Take the opportunity to inspect your cases by wiping them. It is an important step where one can check for cracked necks, beginnings of case head separation, bulges and dents, etc..

 

[dantiff2]

I will chime in and say that with the use of a spray lube such as the Hornady One Shot. You never have to remove anything after the sizing operation. I have cases that were sized several months ago and there is no sticky, greasy or slimy residue. There is zero negative impact on the cases when running a bolt gun and if anything at all, It aids in the cycling of semi's. I have compared the spray side by side with my old method which was Imperial wax on the body and dry graphite on the neck and I will never go back to that mess again. One shot from here on out. I direct it into the mouth and down on the body and your done. It is every bit as lubricating as the wax with out the damn greasy fingers and black graphite mess

It gives me the identical bullet seating force that I had with the dry graphite if that is of any concern to you. Also, there is no galling on the necks of new cases like there is if you use the graphite powder on fresh brass. I don't know if anyone has ever noticed but when you try neck sizing new brass with the graphite it doesn't stick to the necks very well and you get very little lubrication in a bushing. With the spray, you don't get that.

Dan

 

[zipollini]

I use One Shot spray lube to FL size my brass and expand the necks. I remove the One Shot before bullet seating by just soaking them for a minute in 99% isopropyl alcohol and running a nylon brush inside the neck once up and down and then dry them.

 

[dantiff2]

I use One Shot spray lube to FL size my brass and expand the necks. I remove the One Shot before bullet seating by just soaking them for a minute in 99% isopropyl alcohol and running a nylon brush inside the neck once up and down and then dry them.

I don't have a gauge to measure the bullet seating force but I can feel by hand (so it has to be measurable) that it is significantly more effort to seat a bullet into a "clean" un-lubricated neck. All of my better accuracy has been developed with the smoother, easier bullet seating so I choose not to remove the lube from either the inside or the outside. There is zero powder contamination or powder clumping in the neck. My way is by no means better than anyone else's, I just wanted to add my findings to this conversation.

Dan

 

[Mozella]

I hate handling brass individually more than necessary. No neck brushing or individual wiping for me. I shoot single shot rifles with out ejectors so my bras s is always placed on a clean towel. Therefore, I lube and deprime/resize immediately when I come home from the range. Then I do wet SS cleaning. But since I use a non water soluble lube, I prefer to first put the cases in a bucket and swirl them around with a strong cleaner like Simple Green. Then I rinse with a kettle full of boiling water and a few changes of fresh tap water. Then they go into the wet SS tumbler, but they are lube free enough to dry and use as is if desired.

As far as bullet seating force, I moly coat my bullets using the "wet" method; not so much for what it does (if anything) for my barrel, but for the lubrication it provides when seating the bullet and (in theory) the neck release consistency it provides when firing.

I avoid getting moly dust or graphite dust all over the place. Any moly is in a liquid slurry and spillage/excess washes down my laundry room utility sink drain. No dust and the only individual handling I experience is when I weigh and load the powder charge. While I'm waiting for my RCBS Chargemaster, I have just enough time to make a detailed inspection of each case.

 

[M-61]

I put all the brass from the days shooting in my vibratory tumbler that has a mix of corn cob and rouge. (don't know the mix%). Remove them and then roll them on the lube pad (RCBS #2 lube) deprime and size. Don't like the dirty brass going in my die. Back in the tumbler. Brass comes out clean with no lube on it. Then knock the kernel out the flash hole and clean the pocket. Never had the tumbler clean anything out of the primer pocket anyway.
Been doing it that way since the 60's. I like to look the brass over a couple of times and this gives the opportunity to do so. I'm not in a rush, don't believe in having spotless inside necks, and don't think my way is one bit better than anyone else's.

 

[jsthntn247]

Pour rubbing alcohol on a towel in a wide line. Lay 15-20 pieces of brass on the line and roll them back and forth with the other end of the towel. Can do hundreds in no time. I lube the inside of my necks before sizing and don't wan't it coming out before seating bullets.

 

[TheOtherZilla]

I use imperial sizing wax. It takes very little. I wipe mine off with a paper towel when priming

 

[rardoin]

I use lanolin lube...it is non soluble in water. It is very soluble in mineral spirits. I give them 100 cases a quick swirl in a 2qt plastic container with about 1/2 quart of quick drying thinner (I use VM&P Naptha) and dump them into a small wire fry basket to shake off excess naptha...then let them dry for about 15-30 minutes. Sometimes I just put them right into the annealer. They dry real quick then. Actually, a few will produce a very light blue flame for a few seconds after annealing but not enough to change the heat in the brass significantly. It will get any non water soluble lube off quickly and thoroughly.

 

[majohnson]

I will wet tumble my brass prior to sizing and removing primers using the SS pins, dish soap, and Lemi Shine. Then once they are sized and primers removed, I will rerun the case In the wet trembler. Running them that second time allows the primer pockets to clean up, along with the flash hole plus it removes the case lube.

 

[Baddog0302]

I use imperial sizing lube for 308's and a generic "Pam"cooking spray for 223's. The Imperial is the hardest to remove. I usually size 200+ at a time, and after FL sizing I put them in a 5 Gal. bucket. dd a cup of "Simply Green" followed with enough water to fill the bucket about 1/4 full. Then I dump the contents from one bucket to another, repeating about 6 times. The cases are then removed and dumped into a full bucket of water and stirred, cases are then removed , placed on a towel, and allowed to dry in the 90+* sun.

 

[Liven The Dream]

No matter what lube I use after sizing and trimming I wash them in Acetone . I have a bowl and small fryer basket.
as been working for 30 + years.

 

[jds holler]

Submerge cases in water in stainless pan. Bring to boil, and add a couple table spoons of Auto-dishwash powder. Stir around with plastic spoon or brush for a minute, and dump into a strainer. Rinse with clean water, and after straining again, stick em in the oven on 200 for a half hour. jd

 

[5spd]

I'm usually loading a thousand cases or more at a time, so I toss them into the tumbler for 30 min or so.

 

[DennisH]

I use imperial sizing wax. It takes very little. I wipe mine off with a paper towel when priming

My favorite is imperial wax, I think it's the best I have used.

I DON'T RECOMMEND THIS, but after sizing, I soak mine in a gallon bucket of lacquer thinner (1/3 full) and stir a few times. I usually let them soak about 2 hours. I remove them, I dry them with a towel inspecting all for any pressure signs. I then put them in a brass holder and let them sit in front of a fan for a few hours.

Works great for me. My 2nd go to is Hornady spray lube. It works great when you need to resize quickly.

Dennis

 

[Sheldon N]

I sit on the couch and talk to my wife while wiping brass off by hand. RCBS water soluble case lube, she gives it a quick wipe with a wet rag and passes it to me and I polish/inspect with a dry rag. She chats up a storm and I smile and nod.

Clean brass + husband points for the win!


You can take my man card now.

 

[gaboon]

I just throw them in the tumbler for a bit takes it right off.