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Removing a T-10 torque screw

If you can sacrifice the screw cut a slot in it with an abrasive cutting disk then use a flat blade screwdriver. Easy enough to get a replacement screw.
 
I was loosening them, try to get the bridge off the barrel. I broke 2 other T-10 bits. but they broke with a jagged edge so I could get ahold of them with needle nosed pliers. The last one broke flat. They don't look like they were loctited, so I hesitated to use heat.
Use a soldering iron on anything that gives resistance. I also have used a handheld engraver like you would use for engraving your name on your craftsman wrench and it could chip away at the broken piece. Let us know what worked.
 
I am removing the sight bridge on a Ruger #1 and twisted off a T-10 bit. It broke flush with the hole in cap screw, I can't get ahold of it to pull it out. Anybody got a sure fire method of removing the broken piece?

Bill
drill out the center and use a easy out.
 
Blow on it with a rubber tipped blowgun with your saftey glasses on!! The compressed air should get right under it and lift er right outta there.
 
I altered a dremel bit and am carefully grinding the head and the broken bit down to the screw shank. There should be enough screw left to get ahold of and turn it out. I am hopeful I will not ruin the bridge.

Thanks to everybody.

Bill
 
I had the exact problem with a torx screw on a dirt bike clutch. Racked my brain for a while till I got a left hand twist drill and drilled into the center of the screw body. The left hand torque plus the heat of the drilling backed the screw out slick as can be!
 
A buddy of mine gave me a suggestion that works pretty good if you have access to both sides of the screw ( like a scope ring ). Heat the area and screw with a hair dryer and melt candle wax into the threads. Works good
 
Probably the best advice was the guy that said "take it to somebody"...once upon a time I worked for 16 years as an automotive machinist. By the time we got these kinds of jobs somebody drilled it off center and of course broke an easy out in it. Then they would usually beat on it some more to really mess it up. This is when they would give up and call their buddy who invariably told them that we had a magic "device" to just remove it and it shouldn't cost but about $5.00. For every idiot there are at least 5 or 6 wrung off bolts in an engine.
There is no magic device....but I will tell you one tip that sounds crazy and sometimes works like a dream. Heat the part and melt a candle on it. Paraffin wax gets really incredibly thin with some heat and will run into areas that no other "penetrating" chemical can. Don't get it so hot that the wax melts and flashes into flames...it just needs to be hot enough to cause the wax to run into the part.
The trick is to let the part get completely cooled off before you try an extraction. With what you have I would do the wax trick and then with a small but hardened center punch just beat on it numerous times to try and loosen and get it to move. You should be able to get it to loosen enough to fall out. The good thing for you in this case is that, as far as the broken tool is concerned, you are not fighting a locked up thread. The candle trick works even better on threads, not always but it's fantastic when it does.
 
I am removing the sight bridge on a Ruger #1 and twisted off a T-10 bit. It broke flush with the hole in cap screw, I can't get ahold of it to pull it out. Anybody got a sure fire method of removing the broken piece?

Bill
Try a henway.
 
I am removing the sight bridge on a Ruger #1 and twisted off a T-10 bit. It broke flush with the hole in cap screw, I can't get ahold of it to pull it out. Anybody got a sure fire method of removing the broken piece?

Bill
High pressure liquid ie: pressure washer might work
 
With the Torque bit broken off in the hole, how do I drill it..... they are hard. I am back to my custom grinder and grinding off the screw head.

Now, I have tried a dohickey and the thingamagig, didn't think of a matterbaby, the henway is much too small.

Bill
 
I keep a set of left hand drills for such occasions. Most of the time, you never get all the way down the broken thread portion before it just backs out from the torque of the drill.

You can find left hand drills at most suppliers of drills and bits, such as machine shop suppliers.

If you have a small amount of screw remaining above the action, you can slot it with a dremel and use a screwdriver.
 

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