Removing a sporter weight barrel off a Rem 700?

[HTSmith]

I have a Davidson aluminum vise and rear entry action wrench that I use to swap barrels on a varmint rifle that was made up as a switch barrel. It works real well. Now I'm wanting to remove a barrel that is sporter contour where the barrel begins to taper right at the recoil lug, unlike my varmint barrels that are full diameter for a couple of inches in front of the recoil lug. My vice can't really get a solid grip. It is a custom barrel so hopefully it isn't glued in like some factory barrels I've heard of. I want to avoid marring the barrel. I'd appreciate any advice on how to deal with this. Thanks in advance.

 

[Dusty Stevens]

Youre gonna be lucky if you dont mark the barrel. Wrap it with thick paper like target paper a few wraps and get it tight- if it slips it marks. Then soak the joint inside and out even thru that one base hole in the front with kroil for a day then heat the action til the kroil boils out that base hole and try it. I get em off like that every day but i dont try to not mark em up. Some you need the brownells action wrench with the recoil lug recess in it to break it loose. Good luck. Some heat is your friend to soften the sealant but not so much as to anneal the action.

 

[shortgrass]

I custom make a bushing for my barrel vise that fits the taper of the barrel. Make it oversize, so you can wrap some target paper or brown paper around it. Inline wrench probably won't work for this, but you might get lucky.

 

[Keith Kilby]

If it's a custom barrel there shouldn't be any glue/sealant in the threads. You can also make a set of barrel blocks that fit further out the barrel where the taper isn't so severe. You have to be careful clamping out there but if it's only torqued to 40-60 ft-lbs max it should come off with your rear entry wrench. If it doesn't break loose don't continue with the forward barrel clamps and rear entry wrench....you should then go back to the wrap around wrench and a custom bushing to fit your barrel.

 

[Dans40X]

Ditch the rear entry or a port entry wrench for removing a factory installed Remington barrel, unless you want a twisted action.

I turn oversize bushings to shim/wrap the barrel with 3x5 card stock to protect the finish.

V Block action/barrel blocks, weather steel/aluminum/wood work for switch barrel set-ups....ONLY.

 

[HTSmith]

It is a custom barrel but in a Remington Factory sporter contour. It shouldn't be too tight. I don't have a lathe. Where could one get a bushing to fit he countour--or close anyway? Thanks for all the help.

 

[Ggmac]

If all the suggestions fail , and you want the barrel , sacrifice the recoil lug .grind it as smooth s possible ( remove the flag ) and part as you would the barrel . If it has a std width lug , and you don't mind using a lug that's thicker ,set up in a lathe and cut a thin as possible parting line , just deep enough to relieve pressure and turn off , usually by hand . Then to reuse the barrel use a thicker recoil lug .

 

[Dusty Stevens]

If its a custom barrel just get it tight on card stock and break it loose. Shouldnt be an issue at all

 

[Hollerpoint]

Use a surgeon port entry wrench. Paint brush multiple layers of a rosin and rubbing alcohol slurry where the vice will grip. Also paint the vice on top and bottom slots. Tighten tightly the Davidson vice. Begin to put pressure like you were trying to loosen the action. Firmly hit the recoil lug flag in the loosening direction. Barrel comes off.

 

[Rustystud]

Brownells steel bushing for Remington sporter Contour, put liberal cost of powdered resin on the bushings. Soak the action, inside and outside. Use a Brownells action wrench fitted only snugly, insert .250 x 28 tpi screw in lower wrench insert. Use a rubber hammer and a cheater bar. If it does not come off. Put barrel in lathe and cut relief cut in front of lug. It will come off easily.

 

[LarryDScott]

Get you a Great Scott shooters barrel vise, and you wont
have a problem. It will take off a sporter as well as a Varmint taper, W/O damage. Larry

 

[Alex Wheeler]

I have a plain aluminum vise I got from Pbike on this forum. No paper, no rosin just tighten it down, Brownells action wrench, smack it with a dead blow. Never even a hint of a problem, remingtons, new old, win 70s, weatherbys what ever. Do not tighten the wrench, it will only squeeze the action to the threads and make it worse. Finger tight, the bolt that threads into the bottom of the action should be tight. You have to shock it, smach the wrench with a dead blow. Its why mechanics use impact wrenches...