Remove extractor and ejector from RPR bolt when checking headspace?

[fatelvis]

I'm used to removing both the ejector and extractor from my Rem 700 bolts to check chambering (I believe we are calling this the Wheeler method now?). The RPR's bolt is much different, and I was wondering if anyone had a good instructional or video, or tips on stripping/reassembly of the ejector and extractor. My internet searching turned up very little. Thanks!

 

[Raythemanroe]

Remove firing pin assembly and ejector.

Research Ruger American Rifle bolt handle replacement. It's actually very easy, ejector I don't remember but like every other it's not hard .

Ray

 

[fatelvis]

Unlike the Rem 700, Removing the firing pin assembly allows the bolt handle to fall out. I need the bolt handle to cycle the bolt.

 

[Raythemanroe]

Unlike the Rem 700, Removing the firing pin assembly allows the bolt handle to fall out. I need the bolt handle to cycle the bolt.

Improvise, hold the bolt in place while you cycle it.. This method is pointless and a no go if you don't remove the firing pin assembly..

You can put a wooden dowel or anything into the bolt to hold the handle.. Again no biggy

Ray

 

[Lone Hunter]

I'm used to removing both the ejector and extractor from my Rem 700 bolts to check chambering (I believe we are calling this the Wheeler method now?). The RPR's bolt is much different, and I was wondering if anyone had a good instructional or video, or tips on stripping/reassembly of the ejector and extractor. My internet searching turned up very little. Thanks!

Fatelvis, you said you removed the Ejector and Extractor on the Remington 700. I know how to remove the Ejector but how do you remove the Extractor without breaking it? Isn't it riveted in?

 

[NorCalMikie]

Why bother? The extractor snaps over the case head rim and holds the case on the bolt. If the ejector rod pushes on the case head and moves it THAT MUCH in the chamber, you've got chamber problems!! The firing pin is held in the cocked position (till you pull the trigger so that's a non issue) and doesn't touch the primer/case head.

 

[Raythemanroe]

Why bother? The extractor snaps over the case head rim and holds the case on the bolt. If the ejector rod pushes on the case head and moves it THAT MUCH in the chamber, you've got chamber problems!! The firing pin is held in the cocked position (till you pull the trigger so that's a non issue) and doesn't touch the primer/case head.

Makes zero sense to leave the firing pin assembly in


Ray

 

[cw308]

I removed the firing pin assembly and changed the spring on the ejector plunger to lay flush with the bolt face , I only load one round at a time , I don't have to chase my brass , it just lays on the follower . I didn't remove the riveted extractor . When using the stripped bolt method , when first measuring for case headspace it on the bolt downward close . When measuring for ogive measurement is it's on the bolt rise , feeling the resistance coming off the locking lugs . .even though my bolt isn't completely stripped the measurements are accurate and repeatable .

 

[Lone Hunter]

CW, that is the way I do this. That’s the reason I was asking FE about removing the extractor. Never known anybody to do this. I use mine as a SS and take the ejector and spring out. I also run a single shot follower and pick my brass off of the extractor.

 

[cw308]

Lone Hunter
I do the same , I also changed to a single shot follower . I use a lighter spring from the Bic lighters to replace the plunger spring , lays flush with the bolt face . My 700 is a 308 originally a LTR , after 4000+ through the barrel I changed to a Rock Creek M24 5R 11:27 twist completely blueprinted , dropped in a Jewell trigger set at 10 ounces . I have been shooting this rifle for over 10+ years . My one and only , juct love shooting it . Only shoot benchrest , .001 to .002 case headspace no more or less with a .002 jump . Using the RCBS Precision Mic for my measurement . I feel the stripped bolt method is the best way to make very accurate repeatable adjustments . Be Well .

Chris

 

[oldduc]

 

[fatelvis]

Fatelvis, you said you removed the Ejector and Extractor on the Remington 700. I know how to remove the Ejector but how do you remove the Extractor without breaking it? Isn't it riveted in?

Please forgive me, I spoke before thinking, I never removed the extractor from the 700 bolt. Only the firing pin assembly and ejector.

 

[carlsbad]

First put it in a secure soft vice with the boltface up.

To remove the extractor you just push it toward the firing pin with your thumb. Your thumb will catch the ball bearing and spring as they try to escape. to reinstall it you hold the ball bearing and spring down with a screwdriver and push it back in the opposite way, pushing the screwdriver out of the way. --jerry

 

[Joel Dubose]

I remove the firing pin and the ejector pin from the bolt. You will have to hold the handle in the bolt as you put it in and out but no biggie. It will close on its own without any resistance. Then you can size the brass until it just closes without resistance. Once thats done you can do the same with the bullet to determine where exactly the lands are.
Start long on seating depth and move the bullet into the case until you feel slight resistance then slow down how far you push the case in going less as you get closer. In the end you will feel very slight resistance so I move and measure each seating depth to .001 or less. Finally it will just close without any felt resistance. Thats where the bullet is just on the lands.

 

[rardoin]

First put it in a secure soft vice with the boltface up.

To remove the extractor you just push it toward the firing pin with your thumb. Your thumb will catch the ball bearing and spring as they try to escape. to reinstall it you hold the ball bearing and spring down with a screwdriver and push it back in the opposite way, pushing the screwdriver out of the way. --jerry

^^^^^

...but...don't point it at your face while doing this as the ball and spring have a nasty habit of escaping their hide and flying to the most obscure location in the room in which you are working; you don't want your eye to be a waypoint in their journey. I have put my bolt in a plastic freezer bag to remove the ejector/capture the ball and spring (after spending time on my hands and knees and then ordering a bag of 1/8" balls...). However, as pointed out, you don't need to remove the extractor...in fact it is an aid in the process of measuring 'touch length' using the stripped bolt method.

Robin

 

[Raythemanroe]

^^^^^

...but...don't point it at your face while doing this as the ball and spring have a nasty habit of escaping their hide and flying to the most obscure location in the room in which you are working; you don't want your eye to be a waypoint in their journey. I have put my bolt in a plastic freezer bag to remove the ejector/capture the ball and spring (after spending time on my hands and knees and then ordering a bag of 1/8" balls...). However, as pointed out, you don't need to remove the extractor...in fact it is an aid in the process of measuring 'touch length' using the stripped bolt method.

Robin

If it's too tricky put it inside s clear baggy when you work on it


Ray

 

[carlsbad]

BTW, I always return these to the customer as I receive them but if it was mine, I would cut a couple of coils off of each spring. The RPR ejector spring especially is very stiff. --Jerry