Remmy 700/HS Precision Stock- Bedding Job

[NETim]

I am planning on bedding my old 700VS in an HS precision stock. I've had both for a number of years. I've finally decided to bed it. This will be my first ever bedding job.

I going to use Ernie The Gunsmith's Accu-riser kit as that appears to be a good way to go on this project.

Following his instructions on his web page, he suggests taping off only the bottom side of the recoil lug. This leaves me a bit nervous. Every other tutorial/instruction set I've read suggests taping off the bottom, sides and muzzle end of the recoil lug. I'm not too wild about a big fight getting the action back out of the stock. Sure, I can see a better fit delivered by just taping the bottom side but you have to be practical about this too.

 

[Dusty Stevens]

Dont buy nothing but epoxy and a drink from chick fil a for your bedding job. You may have to buy plastic knives and electrical tape if you dont have any.

A “quick bedding” tutorial

This is what i call a quick bed job. This would be used on a hunting rifle with a very loose inlet and the customer doesnt know he wants a full bed job. This is the bare minimum you need to do on any stock really. They say some stocks are drop in but ive never seen one that was, so this is easy...

forum.accurateshooter.com

 

[NETim]

I've got plenty o' tape on hand of various kinds. I plan to tape up all surfaces on the recoil lug save for the action end.

I've been watching various youtube vids and picking up tips. One guy was using dental floss to cut putty off flush with the action. I thought that was a slick little trick. He didn't apply tape to the lug at all though. He just lathered on a sticky red grease on all the metal surfaces.

 

[RussellJ]

I am planning on bedding my old 700VS in an HS precision stock. I've had both for a number of years. I've finally decided to bed it. This will be my first ever bedding job.

I going to use Ernie The Gunsmith's Accu-riser kit as that appears to be a good way to go on this project.

Following his instructions on his web page, he suggests taping off only the bottom side of the recoil lug. This leaves me a bit nervous. Every other tutorial/instruction set I've read suggests taping off the bottom, sides and muzzle end of the recoil lug. I'm not too wild about a big fight getting the action back out of the stock. Sure, I can see a better fit delivered by just taping the bottom side but you have to be practical about this too.

I purchased a DVD on Stress Free Bedding by Richards Custom Rifles about a month ago. I just watched it today, Richard makes stock bedding look easy.

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richardscustomrifles.com

 

[jepp2]

I purchased a DVD on Stress Free Bedding by Richards Custom Rifles about a month. I just watched it today, Richard makes stock bedding look easy.

Highly recommended!

This is a shortened version of the video. Learn from the best (IMO).
https://www.6mmbr.com/pillarbedding.html

Your rifle, your choice. But in my experience very little to be gained by bedding an H S Precision stock.

 

[Edd]

I think the bottom and the front of the lug should always get taped. Based on the shape of the lug, one or both sides may or may not need taped.

 

[NETim]

Highly recommended!

This is a shortened version of the video. Learn from the best (IMO).
https://www.6mmbr.com/pillarbedding.html

Your rifle, your choice. But in my experience very little to be gained by bedding an H S Precision stock.

What bothers me

 

[NETim]

I recently got this rig re-barreled. The 'smith recommended I bed it. When I torque the action screws to the recommended 65 in-lbs, the floorplate binds and won't open. If I loosen the action screws up, then floorplate is functional. So I'm thinking the action is being stressed.

 

[Edd]

I recently got this rig re-barreled. The 'smith recommended I bed it. When I torque the action screws to the recommended 65 in-lbs, the floorplate binds and won't open. If I loosen the action screws up, then floorplate is functional. So I'm thinking the action is being stressed.

Sounds like the floor plate needs to be bedded.

 

[Dusty Stevens]

I recently got this rig re-barreled. The 'smith recommended I bed it. When I torque the action screws to the recommended 65 in-lbs, the floorplate binds and won't open. If I loosen the action screws up, then floorplate is functional. So I'm thinking the action is being stressed.

The floorplate is stressed not the action. Pillar bed it to the right height to not bind

 

[NETim]

The floorplate is stressed not the action. Pillar bed it to the right height to not bind

Playing around with it this evening, I noticed that loosening/tightening the front action screw I could feel the barrel move significantly. No dial indicator needed to see it.

 

[SBS]

HS Precision stocks have an aluminum bedding block, but seldom does the receiver bottom out evenly at the action screw locations. First make sure the new barrel is not resting on the bedding block. Then ensure the recoil lug is not binding in the bedding block slot. Next tighten the front action screw and then start tightening back action screw. If it pulls the tang down and springs back up when loosening, it's not sitting on the bedding block on the rear. If the tang doesn't go up & down by tightening and loosening the rear action screw, then reverse the process by tightening the rear screw first. I usually find that one of the 2 does not bear on the bedding block when the other is tightened. So I rough up the bedding block and use Devcon for a skim bedding job where I tighten the end that makes contact first, letting the bedding fill the space between the bedding block and the other action screw hole location where the action is just floating with no action screw or even headless screw. I do put bedding on both ends and the excess is readily squeezed out at the area of the tightened screw. Occasionally, you'll find a good match where both ends bear evenly, but not often. You didn't say what recoil lug you are using, but if you are using a tapered lug, I'd only tape off the front and the bottom. If you're using the factory lug, I'd tape the sides also unless you can be absolutely sure that the lug does not ever get any wider as it gets closer to the bottom and that the sides are parallel. I think that if you will properly skim bed the action, the t/g should work as intended. If inletting is too shallow, you can always use some washers or place some bedding between the alum. block and the t/g. If the inletting is too tight, simply relieve it where necessary. Don't bed it tightly in the area inletted for it, as it is not designed to take recoil or act as a recoil lug. EDIT: Build up the diameter of the action screw that you are tightening with some turns of masking tape until it is a fairly close fit -- to make sure the screw is centered in the bedding block hole. Also see if this allows for the other screw to clear the sides of its bedding block hole when the bedding is complete and the hole is cleared for the action screw. It can be redrilled after bedding if necessary for clearance; usually a little larger drill size will be sufficient for the small amount needed.

 

[boltfluter]

Playing around with it this evening, I noticed that loosening/tightening the front action screw I could feel the barrel move significantly. No dial indicator needed to see it.

I bed all my stocks that have bedding blocks. I have yet to see a bedding block that fits correctly in any mass produced stock. Take a piece of 1.350 diameter aluminum and some 400 grit sand paper with dykem on the bedding block. A few passes and you will soon see how good or bad the fit is. Never see a perfect one yet!

Paul

 

[NETim]

It's got the OEM Remington recoil lug on it. I was all hot to replace it with a thicker aftermarket lug but the 'smith told me it wasn't necessary since it's a .223. The sides are parallel more or less according to my dial calipers. If anything, it's narrower at the bottom.

When the rifle is held vertically with the lug against the bedding block, the action screws appear to be centered within the holes. I'm not sure what centers them side to side though. Maybe when they're tightened, they pull into the center? I think that's safe to assume anyway.

The recoil lug inlet in the stock is deep and wide according to the calipers. Ample clearance for the lug IMHO. A piece of paper slips easily under the entire length of the barrel with the action screws tightened down.

I get some vertical barrel movement when tightening/loosening the front action screw. Movement is negligible with the rear action screw.

Thanks all!!!!

 

[FeMan]

FWIW, I have had the floor plate bind when the OEM mag box isnt installed just right and binds between the action and floor plate. If you can reach your hand in a feel the box move when its assembled, that might be your issue. I had that excat issue on a HS Precision assembly just last week.

 

[AlNyhus]

I get some vertical barrel movement when tightening/loosening the front action screw. Movement is negligible with the rear action screw.

With the BDL bottom metal, open the floor plate and swing the spring and follower out before chaecking for movement. If there's movement then at the barrel or tang when you loosen and tighten the action screws individually, you have bedding issues.

If you have a magnetic base dial indicator set the base on the barrel and the indicator on the side of the stock at the end, then crack the screws loose. Obviously, if you can feel or see the movement you already know it's excessive. The dial indicator method will give you a figure to reference to when you're done with the bedding to see how much it's improved. These setups are $30 at Harbor Freight and should be in anyones tool box if you're going to do any bedding.

The factory pot metal BDL stuff is usually warped or will warp when the action screws are tightened. After the action is properly bedded, the floor plate gets bedded as well.

On a 700 recoil lug, the only contact should be the rear surface of the lug. -Al

 

[NETim]

With the BDL bottom metal, open the floor plate and swing the spring and follower out before chaecking for movement. If there's movement then at the barrel or tang when you loosen and tighten the action screws individually, you have bedding issues.

The factory pot metal BDL stuff is usually warped or will warp when the action screws are tightened. After the action is properly bedded, the floor plate gets bedded as well.

On a 700 recoil lug, the only contact should be the rear surface of the lug. -Al

I've been testing it today with the follower, spring and mag box removed out of the rifle. Still get the barrel movement. I'm going to bed it once I get all the stuff together.

 

[AlNyhus]

I've been testing it today with the follower, spring and mag box removed out of the rifle. Still get the barrel movement. I'm going to bed it once I get all the stuff together.

As boltfluter mentioned above, very few of these bedding blocks/recievers make good contact. I use a method very similar to his to lap the block after checking the contact with Prussian Blue.

Also, 65 lbs/in. for the factory pot metal bottom metal is more than double what it will take before bending, warping and wallowing out the tapered seat for the action screws. That mystical/magical 65 lbs/in. is for steel bottom metal. -Al

 

[SBS]

I do not install the bottom metal when skim bedding a HS stock. I use a beveled action screw head that will center itself on the bedding block hole and has enough threads to tighten the end of the action that is determined to be the closest to the bedding block. With an even number of wraps of tape around this screw, it will be centered on this hole. Then I fit the bottom metal, whether it be ADL or BDL type.

 

[AlNyhus]

I've posted this before but here's what I use to center the action screws and provide adequate clearance around them.

These flanged sleeves are 5/16" O.D. and 1/4" I.D. Enlarge the screw holes in the pillars or bedding block to 5/16", then epoxy them into the holes. Then use long guide screws in the action to center the action screws in the I.D. of the sleeves. When the bedding is cured and the barrelled action removed, just drill the sleeves out. The screws will be perfectly centered and have adequate clearance around them to prevent any contact...which a big no-no. -Al