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Remington 788 w/Timney function

Just received a response email from Timney saying that the trigger allows for the bolt to opened with the safety on or off, so now I have conflicting answers from members here and from Timney.. Anyone else with a pre-1975 rifle and a timney installed able to verify one way or the other?
 
Just received a response email from Timney saying that the trigger allows for the bolt to opened with the safety on or off, so now I have conflicting answers from members here and from Timney.. Anyone else with a pre-1975 rifle and a timney installed able to verify one way or the other?
No the bolt can't be removed on safe. I just recently replaced the trigger on my Rem 581 with the Timney 788 trigger. The safety lever needs to be pushed forward which depresses the plunger allowing the bolt to slide rearward for removal. (from a 24 hour campfire thread I made on 5/2022) Pre 1975.
 
Just received a response email from Timney saying that the trigger allows for the bolt to opened with the safety on or off, so now I have conflicting answers from members here and from Timney.. Anyone else with a pre-1975 rifle and a timney installed able to verify one way or the other?
FYI Timney may or may not actually know. When they started making the 788 trigger they advertised it as 3-way adjustable. I immediately bought one. It isn’t 3-way. I called them and was assured the trigger is a 3-way unit. After asking for someone who doesn’t read the script on the phone I was then advised that the trigger is so crisp it doesn’t need overtravel adjustment.
 
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The trigger has already been adjusted/modified now. I haven't taken it out of the stock since getting it back, but at this point I may just want to go with a timney for less headache/safety. What do you charge for a trigger job? 2lbs might be a tad light for me, I like 2.5-3lb crisp.
It's typically $80 for a trigger job, unless I have to replace parts
The poundage on a 788 can be changed with a spring change, 3 lbs is fine too
Just saying, I can get a 788 as light as 2 pounds if wanted
some people want them lighter than that
I wont do a 788 lighter than 2 lbs
a Rem 700 yes, but not a 788
 
yes, you can place the screw on one side of the pivot point for take up engagement vs the other side for a limit or stop screw, and it is angled slightly to accomplish this.
The trigger doesn't really care where the screw is as long as it accomplishes the goal ya know.
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I would have to relook at my trigger again to remember why i put it in front instead of the rear but without it in front of me to see if that was simply the most open area without anything in the way
off the top of my head another reason would be:
1 Maybe there was more meat up front than the rear
2 if the screw sticks out the back a guy might have to dremel out to relieve his stock just to fit for a screw
3 when if it's in the front, there is already room and clearance to not have to worry about an extra step just to reinstall his trigger
There is always a method to the madness, so there was a reason I skinned the cat a different way there
4 Edit: Thanks Boyd Allen for posting the 788 mod PDF
I now remember why I did mine differently, 1 operation to accomplish the same thing
vs. 2 operations and extra parts needed would accomplish
The Sear spring is in the way to come in from the back, and if doing that, requires an extra drilling and tapping operation from the front plus an extra spring, which works fine too but I often find the simplest quickest method of doing something if it can be.
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Looks like even Rifle Basix used my idea of coming in from the front/low below the fulcrum point
vs coming in from the rear for the takeup screw
 

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It's typically $80 for a trigger job, unless I have to replace parts
The poundage on a 788 can be changed with a spring change, 3 lbs is fine too
Just saying, I can get a 788 as light as 2 pounds if wanted
some people want them lighter than that
I wont do a 788 lighter than 2 lbs
a Rem 700 yes, but not a 788
There you go!
 
Hmm, not sure but I think not, SN starts with a “B” so I think late ‘70s, early ‘80s?
To the left of the serial number on the barrel there should be a 2 letter code that will date the gun. The first letter will be the month and second letter will be the year. Month is designated by B-L-A-C-K-P-O-W-D-E-R-X with B being Jan, L being Feb, and so on.. If you give me the 2 letter code I can let you know the month and year of manufacture(assuming it is the original barrel).
 

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