Remington 700 LSS stock with two pressure points on barrel

[Yamess191]

I just acquired a Remington LSS in 221 fireball. I love 221’s and all of its offspring. While going over the rifle cleaning it I notice the barrel isn’t fully free floated. I removed the stock and found Remington molded two nubs in the stock almost at the end of the fore end that put a slight amount of upward pressure on the barrel. My question is should I grind off those pressure points before I start load development? Will those pressure points affect accuracy?

 

[Ramblerman]

I just acquired a Remington LSS in 221 fireball. I love 221’s and all of its offspring. While going over the rifle cleaning it I notice the barrel isn’t fully free floated. I removed the stock and found Remington molded two nubs in the stock almost at the end of the fore end that put a slight amount of upward pressure on the barrel. My question is should I grind off those pressure points before I start load development? Will those pressure points affect accuracy?

I would certainly grind them out before I got invested in shooting it, but I would bed it too, but that just me.

 

[Mark W]

I agree with @Ramblerman. I would pillar bed and remove the pressure points. If not bedding, I would probably leave them.

 

[Rdlningcltchdmpr]

Yes, dremel them out. Freefloat the barrel. It can shoot good without piller bedding but i always piller bed my wood stock's. It can and does make better accuracy. And one more thing. Talley lightweight rings are awesome. And it's always the type of powder that makes tiny groups. If one powder isn't great just move on to the next powder, one or two powder's will outshine everything else.

 

[Oso]

If it is the crappy tuperware factory stock then you should replace it. It isn't rigid enough to stay free float when shooting off a bag or bipod. For $150-$300 you can replace with a veneer stock or something like a Bell & Calson kevlar stock.

 

[Yamess191]

Yes, dremel them out. Freefloat the barrel. It can shoot good without piller bedding but i always piller bed my wood stock's. It can and does make better accuracy. And one more thing. Talley lightweight rings are awesome. And it's always the type of powder that makes tiny groups. If one powder isn't great just move on to the next powder, one or two powder's will outshine everything else.

It is a factory Remington Tupperware stock, and it is pillar bedded from the factory. I think I will free float it and start load development. If I can’t get it to group with a few different powders I will purchase a new stock for it as OSO suggested, though I have had good luck in the past with a cheesy plastic stock on my 17 fireball. it is the stock SPS Remington stock and I am getting under 1/2” groups with it after I hand loaded for it.
I have had good luck with H4895 in my 17 fireball and in my 223 so I hope it works well in the 221 fireball as well, I don’t want to stock too many different powders.

 

[Rdlningcltchdmpr]

It is a factory Remington Tupperware stock, and it is pillar bedded from the factory. I think I will free float it and start load development.
I have had good luck with H4895 in my 17 fireball and in my 223 so I hope it works well in the 221 fireball as well, I don’t want to stock too many different powders.

4895 Will most certainly be too slow. Even a full case crushing won't be enough. H4198 would be the better choice I'm sure. Just look at load data to confirm. Let us know how it does. It sounds like a great gun for sure.

 

[Oso]

Pillar bedding will help keep the action secure. The issue with Remington's over-molded stock, aka Tuperware, is that the material is not rigid. It is a common issue that the forearm begins to flex when under pressure, such as shooting off a front bag or bipod, and the forearm bends upward making contact with the barrel. It is not obvious and you may not realize the issue if you simply check the rifle with a dollar bill in your living room. Also, it might not be an issue at the moment, but over time the rubber/plastic softens. Just keep an eye out for it when you are putting downward pressure loading up the bipod or bag. If you start noticing inconsistencies with grouping then check for this interference while you have the gun under downward pressure.

 

[Bangs OH]

I'm not familiar with the LSS in .221 Fireball. I have the LVSF (stainless 22" fluted barrel, synthetic B&C stock w/pillars) in that chambering; also a .204R. Both, like most rifles in that model, shoot well. IMO those nubs were designed to be in that stock for a reason - barrel harmonics or whatever - and I can recall reading of at least one owner who regretted removing them. Before doing so, I'd look at going to a different aftermarket stock; something of decent quality that free-floats the barrel and with a bedding block.

 

[VaniB]

An LSS is supposed to be a Remington 700 with a laminated stock, and not a plasrtic stock. Anyway, I put my 22" LVSF barreled action into an H&S stock that is free-floated and it commonly shoots 5 shot 1/2" to 5/8" groups with 40gr Vmax seated 15thou off the lands, using 18.5gr of RL7 with Rem7.5 primers. (Also does well with Lil'Gun.) It's not uncommon for me to get 1/4" to 3/8" 3-shot groups. This is a factory fluted 22" barrel with a 1-14 twist. (it's not the more common 1-12 twist on most other factory Rem 221's ). I bought this barreled action used without a stock, and I did my own fixing the crown with a drill and lapping compound. So, hopefully you should be able to get decent groups too when you get it into a more solid stock.

(Yes, I know cheaped out by not having the crown professionally redone. But I had intended to make a 20Vartarg with the action anyway).

 

[284winner]

I just acquired a Remington LSS in 221 fireball. I love 221’s and all of its offspring. While going over the rifle cleaning it I notice the barrel isn’t fully free floated. I removed the stock and found Remington molded two nubs in the stock almost at the end of the fore end that put a slight amount of upward pressure on the barrel. My question is should I grind off those pressure points before I start load development? Will those pressure points affect accuracy?

Sounds like the cheap SPS stock they make. It may not start off shooting poorly until it heats up but it will undoubtedly shoot poorly eventually with any barrel contact beyond the breech portion. Typically the Remington Tupperware type stocks are really not worth even using especially when trying to aquire ultimate accuracy. Not really worth putting the time into even bedding it. If cost is an issue, bedding it may be the only option. Definitely remove any barrel contact of the stock beyond the breech/action area like others have recommended.

 

[Yamess191]

It must be the LVSF then, it has the original Remington plastic stock, which seems to be made slightly better than the SPS plastic stock I have on another 700 I have. I think the seller called it a LSS and I didn’t really know the difference.
Eventually will put a decent stock on it but with many other projects might be a while. Would like to put one of those Hogue stocks on it to keep it light for a walking Varminter, for rock chucks, and Praire dogs out to 300 yards. Do any of you have any experience with those stocks? They offer it with aluminum action bedding. Don’t seem to here much about them.

 

[NorCalMikie]

4895 produces bug holes for me. YMMV.
As far as the pressure points? If it ain't broke, don't fix it. They were put there for a reason.
Start load work and see how it comes out. If you find that you can't hit the broad side of the barn, only then would I remove the pressure points. AND, be ready to put them back if needed.

 

[1holeaddict]

I own 3 Remington LSS rifles and they are all Pepper Laminate stocks with stainless.
My 7mm 08 was free floated and bedded = 1/2" groups
My 7mm Mag and 7MM Ultra Mag I did not touch the pressure points and they shoot 1/2" groups. These two also have the dreaded J Lock. Dad always said Don't Fix Something That Isn't Broken.

 

[biggun2869]

4895 produces bug holes for me. YMMV.
As far as the pressure points? If it ain't broke, don't fix it. They were put there for a reason.
Start load work and see how it comes out. If you find that you can't hit the broad side of the barn, only then would I remove the pressure points. AND, be ready to put them back if needed.

I agree! Over the years I have traded for many Remingtons and I have a few times gotten better groups before than after. This was when they all had wooden stocks though, Gary

 

[davidjoe]

I have always been perplexed that nearly everyone is fine with the two premises that barrels resonate, but at the same time, free floating is ideal. My arms aren’t weak at all, but if I fully extended them with my palms half an inch apart, both hands could be moved easily. See how less flexible both arms get pressing palms together.

And it really doesn’t matter whether you press your palms together, or weave your fingers and hold firm against separating pressure, because either way both arms became a more rigid unit.

Remington has known this since the early 40-X’s. These adjustable screws unitize the forearm and barrel by pushing the two apart. A barrel band unitizes the two by pulling them together.

 

[Yamess191]

I own 3 Remington LSS rifles and they are all Pepper Laminate stocks with stainless.
My 7mm 08 was free floated and bedded = 1/2" groups
My 7mm Mag and 7MM Ultra Mag I did not touch the pressure points and they shoot 1/2" groups. These two also have the dreaded J Lock. Dad always said Don't Fix Something That Isn't Broken.

What’s the dreaded J lock?

 

[1holeaddict]

What’s the dreaded J lock?

Just google Remington J lock. You will find all you need to know about them.

 

[epc308]

I have a Remington Mountain rifle with the pencil thin barrel that shot dinner plate groups when mounted and free floated in a B&C stock years ago. I duplicated the factory pressure point placement and amount at the end of the forend and group size dropped back to 5/8-3/4" that it shot when in the factory wood stock. Gee, maybe those boys at Big Green knew a thing or two after all.