Pressure points on 6PPC barrel?

[gene pool]

I ended up with a used 6ppc bench rifle that has a built in pressue point at the end of the forearm. The rest of the 1 in 14 heavy barrel is floated. The action is Shilen, barrel looks to be a Sinclair or Hart, and Jewell trigger. The action is glued in so removing it from the stock would be a task.

My question: is pressure pointing at the end of the forearm customary for 6ppc's?

Thank you,
Gene

 

[gene pool]

This thread is a result of occasional fliers I am experiencing with the rifle. The original owner passed away and his loading notes were lost during the settling of his estate. The "word" is that the rifle performed exceedingly well for him--he shot matches with it. But I am having to start from scratch working up loads. (I will use the rifle for prairie dogs and other varmints). I am getting acceptable groups of .250 but I know the rifle will do much better than that. And I have been getting fliers every once in a while that are 3/4" or so out.

I am hoping the issue with fliers is the result of my tight fitting brass. I am turning the brass and will do some more testing as soon as the weather clears.

But I am still puzzled why someone would pressure point a barrel on a custom bench rifle. I thought they were all floated.

Gene Pool

 

[fdshuster]

Gene: I think you'll find that most of us are free floating the barrels.

If you're getting an occassional, unexplained flyer, that could also be a sign of a barrel nearing the end of life. Unexplained flyers, with an increase in copper fouling has been the first indication for me with numerous barrels & cartridges.

If you can get the bore 'scoped you could easily see the condition of the throat. You might also check the condition of the crown.

I run .002" of neck clearance on my 4 6ppc chamberings. .272" chamber necks= .270". .262" chamber necks= .260" loaded round.

If the barrel looks good at the throat, there's also the chance the previous owner experimented with free float versus pressure point, and found the rifle to shoot better/smaller groups with the pressure pad.

Since it's a glue-in ( I have one), the barrel should still be removable and if so, the pad could be removed.

My glue-in barrels are easily removable, I switch them anytime I feel the need. You would of course need a barrel vise & action wrench to fit your receiver. My barrels are all set at 65 ft. #'s.

 

[gene pool]

I just cleaned with JB and got all the carbon out--there was not that much, but now it's squeeky clean. Then cleaned with Shooters Choice copper remover solvent. The patches from the Shooters Choice came out clean, so there was no copper buildup.

If the rifle still does not perform, I have a local gunsmith who has a scope. I will take it to him to determine the condition of the bore.

Thank you for your comments and suggesions.

Gene Pool

 

[dan06]

My grandfather had a 722 in .257 roberts that totally liked an adjustable pressure point device it had built into the stock. It was a sporter weight factory barrel but it srunk the groups from about 1.25 inches down under .75 inches over what it would do with a free floated barrel.

This is the only time I have seen a pressure point give better groups than free floating.

 

[Catfish]

My first centerfire rifle was a 270 that was tuned with a presure point, made of match book, when I bought it. At 100 yrds you could shoot it all day and then cover the hole with a nickel, the presure point sure worked on that gun. As for the fliers, if the are pretty much high or low it very easily could be bullet hold. The first thing I would do would be to turn the necks, especially if the gun is tight necked.

 

[artbosco]

I just cleaned with JB and got all the carbon out--there was not that much, but now it's squeeky clean. Then cleaned with Shooters Choice copper remover solvent. The patches from the Shooters Choice came out clean, so there was no copper buildup.

JB removes lead, metal, and powder fouling. When you used the JB [assuming you didn't clean before because you didn't mention it] you removed both the copper and the carbon. The Shooters Choice removed the remaining JB residue, which is something you want to do anyway.

 

[skeetlee]

I kinda agree with FD on this one. I think if the pressure points in the stock were a factor you would have far more unexplained shots, and probably no .250 groups. A .250 group by all measures is dam good. There are far more rifles out there that wont shoot .250 groups than there are those that will. I would have to about bet there is something else going on. probably the barrel but perhaps the brass?? Maybe a scope? Hard to say. Heck maybe even the beading. With all this said i would start by removing the pressure points on the stock as that isnt a standard practice among benchrest shooters. report back. Shouldnt be all that hard to do and you wont have to remove the action, just the barrel. Good luck. Lee

 

[gene pool]

Here is the conclusion to this thread. I took the rifle to a local gunsmith--one who appreciates ultra-accurate rifles. I took a new barrel blank along with me and was planning on asking him to open up the bolt face and chamber the rifle to 6BR with the new barrel. After examination, he concluded the only problems were (1) a touchup on the crown and (2) trim the barrel channel to where the barrel would float. He did both while I waited.

Yesterday and today I shot about two dozen 5-shot groups at 100 yards. Every one of the groups were ragged holes in the .2’s, .3’s, and .4’s. There was not a single flier! So it appears the rifle is fixed with a minimum of work and expense.

Thanks to all for your suggestions.

Gene

P.S. My load is for prairie dogs and other varmints...28.5 gr. Varget, 60 gr. Sierra HP #1500, Federal small rifle primer, Norma brass.