Remington 700 Extractor

[agr516]

I broke the extractor on my older model bdl which has the riveted style extractor. The extractor broke cleanly just beside the rivet. Is it possible to replace this extractor with one of the newer models that does not include the rivet fastener? If so, could the existing rivet be left in the bolt?

 

[alf]

The rivetless ones have a rim (overhang) that holds the rivet under, on the end of the bolt. So no, you're stuck with the riveted style.

 

[fdshuster]

Suggestion: replace it with a Sako type.

 

[Gundoktr]

Unless you can find a replacement extractor, the only options you have are a different bolt or a Sako extractor conversion. I have short action bolts in 308 size with extractors but no ejector or firing pin assy. I also do the Sako conversions. Email me if you are interested.

Jim
Jkob60@msn.com

 

[agr516]

Thank you for the replies. Brownells sells an extractor kit with rivets for $23.99 i believe. I will go ahead and give that a try. I was just trying to get around the hassle of replacing the rivet and having to either buy or fabricate the anvil tool that is necessary for the rivet installation.

Thanks,
agr516

 

[kendog]

Pacific Tool And Gauge sells a cutter for Remington type bolts for the late type extractor recess. Not sure it would be worth the cost or setup time for one bolt. Not sure if old bolts can be retro fitted either. Worth a look.

 

[STS]

All this talk about Sako extractors and PTG bolts for a broken extractor? It's a 20 minute job to replace a riveted extractor. Get the one from Brownells and make yourself an anvil the can be held in a vise and put it in there. A little tip for you....slightly round the edges of the rivet and it will be a much slicker installation and not catch on the brass rim. Peen the rivet on the outside of the bolt, smooth it up a bit and go shoot it. DONE.

 

[agr516]

Thanks STS. Do you mean round the outer edges of the rivet or the rivet head to keep it from catching on brass?

 

[STS]

The rivets that come with the extractors are tapered on the under side of the head to fit the hole in the extractor. The top of the rivet head is flat. If you don't round over the edges you will often have a situation where that sharp corner will catch the rim of the brass and hang up or shave a small piece of brass. It eventually makes a mess. I take the rivet and hold it in a pin vise and spin it in the lathe and slightly round over the edge of the flat top. Go slow and test fit into the extractor and it is pretty obvious when you should stop. You don't need a lathe to do the job just a little common sense and a few tools.

 

[agr516]

Will do, thanks a lot.

 

[STS]

A short add on piece of current information. I just got and installed a riveted extractor a couple of days ago. The rivets that came with the extractor were considerably longer than ones I have gotten with the extractors in the past. I my opinion they are too long and should be shortened prior to use. If they are too long they are very difficult to do a nice job peening. There is simply too much rivet. I shortened it by about 1/4th of its length. A good gauge to go by it how high the rivet stands proud over the bolt nose. Just a little above flush allows a nice clean install.

 

[agr516]

Thanks,

I will check the rivet length before installing. I got the kit in the mail from Brownells last week and will probably install it one night this week. Refuse to buy the $75 bolt anvil so will be coming up with some sort of homemade replacement.

 

[butchlambert]

STS is correct. If I did have to do something else, it would be a M16 extractor. I would never use the Sako. PT&G has the M16 and Dave encourages using them and not the Sako.

Butch