Remington 700 Action ?

[PAshooter20BR]

Can someone tell me on a stainless Remington 700 action, is the entire bolt body stainless also? I see that lots of custoM actions are made of a stainless receiver and a chromoly bolt. Just curious if all of the 700 is stainless.
Thanks

 

[ridgeway]

Not sure any bolt is made out stainless? Stainless on stainless is not good...

 

[ab_bentley]

Not sure any bolt is made out stainless? Stainless on stainless is not good...

Cm head brazed to a SS body.

Adam

 

[swd]

Cm head brazed to a SS body.

Adam

This^^^^

 

[Dans40X]

Cm head brazed to a SS body.

Negative to the above 2 posts-

Cm Head pinned & induction silver brazed to a ChromeMoly body.

The ONLY piece of a Rem bolt that is stainless is the HANDLE.

 

[Eddie Harren]

Cm head brazed to a SS body.

Negative to the above 2 posts-

Cm Head pinned & induction silver brazed to a ChromeMoly body.

The ONLY piece of a Rem bolt that is stainless is the HANDLE.

+ 1 on this.

 

[PAshooter20BR]

Thanks for the replies. This leads to my next question, why is there minimal concern about stainless receivers, recoil lugs, and barrels being put together. Any issues that this can cause?
Thanks

 

[Roeder]

Thanks for the replies. This leads to my next question, why is there minimal concern about stainless receivers, recoil lugs, and barrels being put together. Any issues that this can cause?
Thanks

There is minimal concern because barrels are screwed into action and left that way as opposed to bolt lugs that must bear against the receiver mating surface to load and unload each round. After a relatively hot load is fired, there can be quite a lot of pressure on the bolt lugs making bolt lift "sticky" or just plain hard and frequently contributing to galling on the surface of the bolt lugs.

There is actually some concern when fitting stainless barrels to stainless receivers. To prevent galling of the threads it is best to not fit them very tight, be sure to thoroughly de-burr the freshly cut barrel threads, and use an anti seize grease on the threads.
Be especially careful if removing a barrel with the front scope base still attached. If the scope base screw holes are open through to the barrel threads as on a Remington, and the end of the screws touch the barrel threads even slightly, it can start a bad case of galling and even seizure and open a big can of worms.

Incidentally, there is zero benefit from using very closely fitted threads.

 

[ireload2]

Here is a pretty good education in the galling of stainless steels.
Read this and you might appreciate the pitfalls of using stainless steel willy nilly in small arms manufacture.
Stainless does not easily corrode but it can cause a lot of galling problems.

https://www.nickelinstitute.org/~/M...lingCharacteristicsofStainlessSteel_9006_.pdf

 

[carlsbad]

Simple version: Galling generally occurs when pressures get to about 10,000 psi at stainless to stainless joints. So in low stress applications, use of stainless is not a problem. However, in high load applications such screws stressed near yield, barrel joints etc you can get galling.

Theoretically, you shouldn't get galling on bolt lugs since it shouldn't move under load. but it does move at the microstructure level and I'm sure experience has shown that it is not a good idea to use stainless lugs.

A more real-life source of galling is the barrel threads. Use a very good high temperature nickel based anti seize and as pointed out above, watch those scope base screws carefully. Once you get a burr, that burr has to deform to move through the threads. Now you have initiated galling and it spreads rather than arrests.

If you ding a barrel thread (or any thread) in stainless, clean it up with a die nut or thread file before reassembly. The best way to deal with galling is to prevent it.

--Jerry

 

[swd]

Cm head brazed to a SS body.

Negative to the above 2 posts-

Cm Head pinned & induction silver brazed to a ChromeMoly body.

The ONLY piece of a Rem bolt that is stainless is the HANDLE.

Negative to this. I just finished working on NIB stainless 700 action and the bolt body IS STAINLESS. The bolt head itself is the only cm part.

 

[ab_bentley]

Incidentally, there is zero benefit from using very closely fitted threads.

While this might be true, it's akin to saying Leonardo didn't have to match his color schemes on the Mona Lisa. There are times to use lose tolerances and threads aren't one of them. Make them just lose enough to use hand strength to thread the action on.


Btw, I have a SS bolt on my desk from a R700 that's true stainless in the body.

Adam

 

[carlsbad]

How are we in this thread identifying what is stainless and what is crMo?

 

[Dans40X]

Apparently by appearance alone ..... for some!
(hint)
The silver color is a plated process!

TIG weld a few hundred & get back w/ me on your findings.

 

[ireload2]

You can gall Rem 700 chrome moly lugs simply by closing a dry clean bolt in a dry clean receiver with no lube. Just use a case that is too long for the chamber.
You only need pressure on the high points of a surface to start the cold welding. You don't not need a gross 10,000 psi. Just pressure concentrated in a small area. I have seen it hundreds of times in the joint of plier type surgical instruments. The main cause was the extreme cleanliness of autoclaved stainless. And 17-4 on 17-4 is about worst possible offender. 17-4 stainless against 17-4 may find a way to gall in almost every set of conditions unless the two parts in contact are heat treated to very different hardness.

Simple version: Galling generally occurs when pressures get to about 10,000 psi at stainless to stainless joints. So in low stress applications, use of stainless is not a problem. However, in high load applications such screws stressed near yield, barrel joints etc you can get galling.

Theoretically, you shouldn't get galling on bolt lugs since it shouldn't move under load. but it does move at the microstructure level and I'm sure experience has shown that it is not a good idea to use stainless lugs.

A more real-life source of galling is the barrel threads. Use a very good high temperature nickel based anti seize and as pointed out above, watch those scope base screws carefully. Once you get a burr, that burr has to deform to move through the threads. Now you have initiated galling and it spreads rather than arrests.

If you ding a barrel thread (or any thread) in stainless, clean it up with a die nut or thread file before reassembly. The best way to deal with galling is to prevent it.

--Jerry

 

[swd]

Apparently by appearance alone ..... for some!
(hint)
The silver color is a plated process!

TIG weld a few hundred & get back w/ me on your findings.

Dan, I know your the the man when it come to Remington bolt handles, and I respect your experience. I have no doubt the many hundreds if not thousands you've welded have all been CM in the past. After your last post I thought I had better take a harder look at this bolt. I took a file to it under the handle area. I took it down probably .010"+ to be sure and get under any plating. It appears the latest batch of SS 700's really do use a SS bolt body. I'd send it up to you to see except this one actually has really good pre extraction for a change. It seems Remington has made more than just tooling changes on the newest 700's.

 

[ridgeway]

If anyone has access to a metal tester...simply test and you'll know for sure.

 

[kendog]

If anyone has access to a metal tester...simply test and you'll know for sure.

Hit it with some cold blue. If it is SS it will not blue.