Remington 40x bore cleaner

[GLC]

Does anybody use this product?
I have just got some, seems to work very well with little effort, I have a few concerns regarding barrel damage as it appears mildly abrasive.

I shoot 7mm f open and powder fouling in a wsm is no fun to remove particularly after a 60 shot match.
This is a custom barrel.
Comments/experiences all welcome.
Regards
Gary

 

[fullersson]

I don't use abrasive cleaners anymore. I seen first hand that they can damage a barrel if used too much. Here's a link to what I found works for me. Good shooting, Brian.

http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/default.aspx?productNumber=784639

http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/default.aspx?productNumber=312649

 

[GLC]

Thanks Brian,

I have used both Products, I like the carb out but to get rid of the carbon fouling takes many sessions with a bronze brush and carb out, I have found the foam ok but i can still remove copper after a day or two in soak, I was trying to find a product that was quick and easy to use, the holy Grail of rifle cleaning!
The big 7mm's are a bugger to clean, I can get away with foam in my 6mm and 6.5 but not the 7's.

I value your comments and will consider how often I use the 40x.

Regards
Gary

 

[Bob3700]

Gary,

I shoot a couple of 6mms and a 6.5x284 in LR Prone competitions. No 7mms here but the following has worked for me and verified with a Hawkeye.

My bullets are coated and so I begin with several wet patches of Kriol and let that soak/penetrate. Dry patch. This will remove loose carbon and powder fouling.

Next is Slip 2000 Carbon Cutter. Two wet patches with this and then wet your bronze brush. Ten strokes up and down with the brush and let the bbl sit for 30 min. This carbon cutter needs some time to get under the carbon layer and help lift it out. The brushing disturbs the carbon to let the Slip get under it. If you have a caliber that really carbon fouls you can do this regime again. Dry patching should show a pretty dirty black patch.

Now we are after copper. I wrap a round patch around a work bore brush and apply your Rem Clean Bore cleaner. Work that particularly in the throat area and then down the bore working the muzzle area as well. Muzzle will be a major area for copper fouling as you know.

Dry patch out. For my smaller bores it usually takes two patches.

Let's go after that copper again and check how good the Rem Cleaner worked. Apply Bore Tech Eliminator to your patch and wet the bore real good. Eliminator will identify any copper that is left in your bore. It also attacks the copper as well. If you think you have all the copper removed, this will verify it. You can give the bore a second treatment or go back in with the Rem Clean and scrub some more if your patches come out really medium to dark blue. Small traces of blue I ignore as my bronze jag will color the patch just a bit.

Once I am satisfied that the patches are coming out pretty clean, check with a bore scope and see what the results are.

I believe that without direct observation, you really don't know how well your bore is responding to your cleaning materials and methods.

The above works for me and keeps the carbon and copper down. With naked bullets, the first shot zero is right there. With coated bullets you need at least two rounds to settle the bore. After that you are good to go.

I have used Rem Clean for years and bbl life in my calibers is normal compared to other shooters that I associate with.

Bob

 

[JabaliHunter]

I used to swear by it (or the old version Gold Medallion). Montana Extreme Copper Cream is a similar but slightly less abrasive cleaner which works nicely too.

Now I mostly just use Patch Out which is fantastic; and KG-1 if I specifically want to work on carbon (or Mercury Power Tune) and they work just fine with no brushing...

 

[Shootinstick]

I have found the Rem 40X or old Gold Medalion to be better used for rimfires or other lead firing guns such as pistols.

 

[The_Alpha_Dog2017]

We just tested about a dozen different cleaners over the past few months (you can read about it here), and we've found the combination of Hoppes No. 9 for cleaning & Break Free CLP for lubrication to work the best.

 

[boltfluter]

This has been my favorite bore cleaner for years. Works great and keeps the carbon in check to boot. Non toxic and no offensive odors. Can be used indoors.

Paul

 

[hunter243sgk]

I use it only when i need to on a factory barrel. It is very abrasive so i would not use it a lot. I read somewhere that at one time it was big in the br crowd until they seen it was so wearing out there barrels to fast!!

 

[6fatrat]

I started using it when it first came out as Gold Medallion back in the 80's.
Start with a good bore guide and cleaning rod. Use an undersized nylon brush, wet your patch with Hoppies and push out at the muzzle repeat until the loose fouling has been removed. With the bore still wet clean with 40X wiping your cleaning rod off every time you remove it from the barrel. Finnish with wet patches of Hoppies to remove any remaining 40X then dry patches.
Steve Bair

 

[jamesdmock]

Does anybody use this product?
I have just got some, seems to work very well with little effort, I have a few concerns regarding barrel damage as it appears mildly abrasive.

I shoot 7mm f open and powder fouling in a wsm is no fun to remove particularly after a 60 shot match.
This is a custom barrel.
Comments/experiences all welcome.
Regards
Gary

I used it about 25 years ago, but had the privilege of meeting Mr. P.J. Hart (Hart Rifle Barrels) at a Benchrest match in Lafayette, LA and he advised against its use. He said that this product was very aggressive and he had seen as much as .001 inch removed from the lands of a rifle barrel by continued use of the product. I have not used any since.

 

[SG4247]

I call BS ! on wearing out a barrel or removing .001" with this 40X product.

Your barrel will be long shot out (land wear from bullet jackets) before you can lap by hand, any significant material with 40X and its ultra fine compound. It would take millions of strokes, and your arm aint that big!

Used it for years, works perfectly. Use it with Hoppes #9.. and pretty much dont use anything else.

Comments made based on cleaning dozens of SS lapped bore barrels, all cleaned and inspected with a Hawkeye borescope.

 

[Nobody]

I've tried just about everything, but I've found that a quart of Kerosene, a quart of ATF, 8oz Acetone, and a quart of Kroil cuts right through it if you let it set 5min. A couple of strokes with a brush, and the bore scope don't lie.

I make a gallon at a time and it costs me about $40, with the Kroil being the most expensive component ($90/gal). I then funnel it into old Butches bottles with eye dropper caps for ease of use. Seems like a make a new gallon about every three years.

Maybe I'm old school, but I use pure anhydrous ammonia to cut copper (dissolves before your eyes). I used to use Sweets, but the ammonia works even better. It has water in it (will cause rust), so you can't let it sit long, but a patch of pure ammonia followed by some long stroke brushing, followed by dry, kroil, and finish with a dry keeps it gleaming.

I've cleaned up quite a few barrels from used rifles I've bought and friends rifles that looked like they had never been cleaned. I'm not a BR shooter, but I am just as fanatic about it, and have pretty much given up on cleaning products and devolved to just using the active ingredients in them.

 

[Dusty Stevens]

Lapping compound cant remove .001 from a barrel with a cleaning rod.

 

[jamesdmock]

I call BS ! on wearing out a barrel or removing .001" with this 40X product.

Your barrel will be long shot out (land wear from bullet jackets) before you can lap by hand, any significant material with 40X and its ultra fine compound. It would take millions of strokes, and your arm aint that big!

Used it for years, works perfectly. Use it with Hoppes #9.. and pretty much dont use anything else.

Comments made based on cleaning dozens of SS lapped bore barrels, all cleaned and inspected with a Hawkeye borescope.

You can believe what you will, but I am quoting Mr. Hart .....who knows a thing or two about rifle barrels and about what abuse they have been subjected to. Clay Spencer was present when P.J. stated this. I thought that this amount of wear was not possible....but I am not confused by what Mr. Hart stated. Good shooting, James

 

[jamesdmock]

Lapping compound cant remove .001 from a barrel with a cleaning rod.

He said that the lands were worn that much...not the grooves. However, he could have been referring to the sharp corners...dunno, but I do know what he said. Remember, the Gold Medalion was made from soil suspended in an oil and therefore contains silicates which are very abrasive. Maybe Jack Sutton can ask P.J. about this and tell us his response.

I didn't ask and I don't know if he was talking about the .001 being the amount the bore was increased or not. If so, that would mean that .0005 was removed from each side. He has air gauges that could easily determine this. Good shooting....James

 

[Bigguy1951]

The 40x bore cleaner works great to get rid of stubborn carbon that patch out or most any other cleaner might not get rid of. Use it first in your cleaning procedure and repeat for a total of 3 cycles. Some powders leave more difficult residue than others. I use patch out and have found carbon even after the patches were "clean". Use a nylon brush, wrapped in a patch, and scrub the barrel for 10 full strokes (20 half strokes). Your barrel will clean quicker than it ever has. As a side note, the stuff works better on carbon than copper. Don't over clean your barrel, it doesn't need to be cleaned every 20-50 shots. Monitor your accuracy and clean on an interval that fits your barrel. I have one gun that doesn't want to be cleaned for 200+ shots and then takes 10 or more shots to get back on track. Every barrel is different. I have never seen a decrease in barrel life due to the 40x, barrel life is what it is and the 40x makes no difference.

 

[LHSmith]

We just tested about a dozen different cleaners over the past few months (you can read about it here), and we've found the combination of Hoppes No. 9 for cleaning & Break Free CLP for lubrication to work the best.

There are more than 100 marketed bore cleaners. I believe if you test some more, your choice of "best" will change. I will agree that No. 9 rates favorable in the smell test, but like many cleaners it is not the bore solvent it once was thanks to the EPA.

 

[STS]

I call BS ! on wearing out a barrel or removing .001" with this 40X product.

Your barrel will be long shot out (land wear from bullet jackets) before you can lap by hand, any significant material with 40X and its ultra fine compound. It would take millions of strokes, and your arm aint that big!

Used it for years, works perfectly. Use it with Hoppes #9.. and pretty much dont use anything else.

Comments made based on cleaning dozens of SS lapped bore barrels, all cleaned and inspected with a Hawkeye borescope.

I use it when I chamber rimfire barrels to lap the leade before I remove the barrel from the lathe. I can take the circumferential reamer marks off the lands in 20 to 30 strokes. The bore scope doesn't lie. Seems Mr. Hart was a wise gentleman when he cautioned against excessive use, it's pretty quick cutting stuff. I don't clean barrels with it.

 

[fyrewall]

That 40X stuff appears to be real gritty and aggressive, I might use it with a toothbrush to clean rust and crud off die threads. I also think most commercial gun cleaning/maintenance stuff is grossly over priced - like $.50 worth of product in a $.25 container selling for $12.50. Should the gun stuff people make toothpaste a tube of tooth paste would cost $20. The abrasive in the 40X stuff also is quite dense needing some type of pellet agitator to be shaken to distribute the abrasive. I would guess the abrasive is some type of cheap aluminum oxide compound vs. some type of carbonate. Not in my barrels!