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Rem. bolt handles

I'am thinking about changing the bolt handle on my Rem.700 to a different style. Is this something a person can do in the shop at home? What are the steps in removing & replacing a bolt handle. Would I need any kind of special tools or jigs?
 
gunsrme,
Yes,it could be done at home with an oxy-acetylene outfit,if you are experienced in cadmium type silver soldering.
Manual silver soldering induces TOO much heat,1400degF),bright red color) into the bolt body & handle.
The handle has to be timed correctly-or-try try again.
After the first try throw the bolt & handle away as the temper in it is far less than as designed.

Have it professionaly installed.
I've TIG welded hundreds & hundreds of bolt handles in the past 20 or so years for customers & custom builders.
Bolt/Handle timed off lugs & extraction cam.
Actions used as jigs
TIG Pulse/Purge process
Lifetime Guarantee
2 day turn around
The best $40.00 you'll ever spend!!!!!
 
Like this? Dan is "the" man! Beautiful work!:thumb:
The only thing is I can't remember where I got the handle. I think Dan can get them.
 
Having it TIGed on is the best way, absolutly strong very clean look,when done correctly)

I have a PTG bolt here for a M-7 that had the bolt handel welded on and the job was less than decient I may end up cutting the thing off and having it done over. Who even did the job apparently got it way to hot as the threadeds for the firing pin unit are disstorted.

$40 sound like a heck of a deal

Dan,have you ever used one of the ECT bolt handels from Midway, they come pre threaded 5/16-24 for several knobs they offer?
The handel in the pic looks like the "tactical" handel from Hollands.
 
Correct in both aspect.
The pic'd handle is a Holland's TAC handle TIG welded by myself.
PT&G staright threaded handles avail from Midway USA are very popular today.
Thousands of satified customers to date.
 
Dan what rod are you using? I've used 70s-2 a couple times but they blue off color. And are you purging straight argon?
 
rednek,

70S-2%,nickel) will give you better crack resistence,yield),but the 2% nickel in the filler metal will not color match if re-blued.

I'm running 4130 CR-Mo .035" wire.
A blued bolt & handle with the TIG Pulse-Purge process that I'm running will not discolor the OEM blueing on either part of the weldment.

If a TIG welded part is to blued,what needs to be done to the filler rod/wire prior to welding?????
Any Guesses!?!?!?!


I'm running UHP Argon - Ultra High Purity Argon - 2-1/2 times the cost of standard Argon - but any & all of my weldments are Guaranteed for Life.
 
Dan

I've welded a couple handles the same way as you, but have not found any rod or process that eliminates the discolor after blueing. I guess the next bet would be to talk to my weld supplier and or a heat treater. I really think filler needs to match the base metal exactly, but there has to be a rod out there that comes close enough not to have discoloratrion after blueing.
 
Dan:

I use standard Tri mix on steel and Argon/Helium mix on Stainless Steel. Make slight undercut on handle edge, use pulse push pull with 3/16 tungsten rod sharpened to a fine point, .30" 4140 or 415 filler. I use a 5x magnafier to see with and keep the puddle small, smooth and linked with no persoity.
Rustystud
 
rednek,
TIG PULSE/PURGE process.
Re-Heat treat is not required if executed in a timely manner.
During my process the bolt/handle temperature does not exceed 150 deg F.
NO,I do not use any heat sink "putty" to contaminate/discolor my customers parts.

Heat Sinks & Purge Process to keep the atmosphere from each side of the welded part are a must for a certifiable TIG weld.

If you induce enough heat into either part to raise carbon-
reevaluate the process as you are getting it WAY TOO HOT.

Approximately how many amps DCSP are you running to TIG a bolt handle to a bolt???


Rustystud,
You are over complicating the process.
TRI MIX gas-the parts aren't 3/8" to 1/2" thick nuclear sureity weldments.
Argon/Helium mix gas for S/S & you still have raised carbon on the back side of your weldments-right!!
Non certifiable S/S TIG weld if that is the case.
PURGE BOTH SIDES to keep atmosphere away.
TIG push-pull with 3/16" tungsten???
You must have outragious arc wander using 3/16" tungsten with almost impossable restart capabilities.
You should be running DCSP to TIG weld steel/SS/Ti not AC.

I'm running .040" rare earth ground tungsten,grey) ground lengthwise w/.020" flat on tip to keep from spitting @ approximately 60 Amp Inverter DCSP Hi Freq start to TIG/PULSE/PURGE a Rem/Clone bolt handle.
Action jigged & timed-2 fillet beads & i fusion bead takes-
well,professionally,accurately get on & get off.

Color Match- no guesses??
it is quite simple.
Hint-copper is the culprit.
e-mail me for answers
 
If you just need one handle replaced get Dan to do it, for more than one get Dan to do them. Within the last five years I've had him to do at least ten for me, friends and family members. Even told a couple of high dollar-custom gunsmiths about him and they use him. I use the Holland stainless handle and get them from Brownells. Shipping and Dans work usually is about 7-8 days turn around, considering his location thats great,I live in Va.). Don't know what other type work he does but his tig welding is excellent!!!
Mackr-in Va.
 
Mal,
Thanks for the praise!!!
Been at it for 30yrs.

Don't be terrorizing those 'chucks & p'dogs too harshly-leave a few for another day.

I wish marmots were as plentiful & accessable up here in Alaska as your ground rats are IN THE LOWER 48.

Grizzlies take more than their fair share!!!!!!
That's fun to watch a grizz "excavate earth" for a small mouthfull.
 

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