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Rem action ?

Link

Silver $$ Contributor
Are there any articles on how to make a Remington action work as smooth as a custom ? If it can't be done how good can you make them and how to do it ? What do you think of the XR 100 action, I have one.

thanks Link
 
Quite simply...True & Time to work in unison.
A tighter fitting bolt body w/a lighter firing pin & heavier mainspring presents a profitable marketing scam.

A Louisville Slugger Baseball Bat bolt knob isn't required to cycle the bolt.....either.
 
I have a 40x action that works like glass. As good as any custom made action I've looked at. I have two other Remington actions; one is pretty good, the other was a bit ragged in the beginning but is smoothing out with use. This may be your answer:
 
Yep, trued and timed, ignition and extraction timing. They can be made to run better than most out of the box customs.
 
....how to make a Remington action work as smooth as a custom ?

How do you mean "smooth"?

Are you talking full blown machining like others are suggesting, or do you just want to clean up the way the bolt feels when sliding in the action body?
 
What I would like is a smooth cam over so that when reloading it doesn't upset the rifle in the bags.
thanks for your time
 
You will accomplish a great deal of that when you properly size your brass.
My Remington rifles don't cam over smoothly with no brass in the chamber. I wonder if I should buy another Panda or can my smith get the factory Rem satisfactory for a lot less?.

Link
 
Buy a Panda.
Pretty good advice ....from an accomplished short range BR record holder who did it the "old fashioned way"- by using non-custom actions (REM 722) even AFTER customs were made legal. Eddie, however, was able to do his own "smith" work which factors big into the equation.
 
My Remington rifles don't cam over smoothly with no brass in the chamber. I wonder if I should buy another Panda or can my smith get the factory Rem satisfactory for a lot less?.

Link
As an experiment, I slightly changed the angle of the ramp and removed a slight amount of the small hump on top of the ramp on the tail of the bolt body. Then polished the ramp and cocking piece. This made a lot of difference in the cocking friction in my case. Just one caveat, if you do too much, you'll need a new bolt.
 
From one who has paid considerable $$ in the past in attempts to make Remington 700's run with customs, the biggest problem with this method is that all that truing was for naught because on a standard factory bolt it has to be bushed (at least in the rear) for the axial alignment of the bolt body to receiver bore to be optimum.(i.e. the back of the bolt will cant vertically when in battery). Many other instances where I disagree with his techniques/ theories....too numerous to mention. FWIW I did not get into part 2 of the vid.
 
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LHSmith, I'm not trying to be a smart ass with this question. If he squared the lugs what would make the bolt cant? I would think that as long as the lugs were squared up to the action s axis what would that matter? Thanks, Alan
 

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