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Rem 700 bolt issues ???

I picked up a new Rem 700 AAC-SD in 308 to play with. Doing my inspections have revealed some bolt issues I want to address but have questions.

First, what I found:

About .040" cock on close, .019" play between front of bolt handle and reciever bolt handle cutout and ZERO extraction at the bolt handle..all on primary lugs!

My question revolves around extraction timing. If I resoldered the handle to go from .019 to ..010" clearance this brings me closer to the extractor ramps on handle/receiver but not enough. To get any extraction, the handle would need to be rotated on the bolt body...??

I am afraid this would then rotate the bolt to far on close and misalign the cocking piece in the bolt body cam area groove... I need to rotate the handle up towards the exteaction ramp.....but on close it would now rotate the bolt more.

Machine a few thou off the leading edge of the handle so I can move it further forward making the ramps closer...therefore engaging sooner?

The factory extraction timing is way off. It has allready cleared the primary lugs and bolt can come straight back and it is still pretty far from engaging the extraction ramps on handle!
 
Before you make any bolt adjustments make first make sure that you have the locking lug contact that you want, since any recutting of the back of the lugs to square them, or their abutments will set the bolt back a little. If you are going to have to take the bolt handle off and do extensive work, another option might be to sell the bolt on Ebay, and order a custom one from Pacific Precision, in a better fitting diameter, along with your handle of choice. There is a fellow in Alaska that does bolt handles and he has a very good reputation for his work, tig welding them on.
 
The main reason I bought this rifle was to "play" with. I enjoy working on them as much as shooting. Just getting started on Remmy stuff so I bought this one to go through my self. Allready made a few jigs to work on the bolt and got a few more to make. Just trying to fully understand the action working/timing first.

My plans are to eventually do all the accurizing myself , including sleeving the bolt, threading and chambering my own barrel etc. I can tig it up myself if I decide to go that route.

A new handle may be the answer. I have watched a ton of videos but still have questions.

Is there a 700 bible kinda like Kunhausens books on the 1911?
 
The bolt handle will need to be moved straight forward until it just engage's the ramp.
DO NOT rotate it at all..
Removing a little metal from the leading edge of the handle is not a problem...
 
Depending on OEM Remington handle vintage-

The current production handles have a "SHORT" extraction cam surface that is a steeper angle than the receiver drafted angle.JUNK!!

Early handles finger straps need to be shortened approximately.060" to allow counter clock wise rotation to time for primary extraction.

Timing into battery should be a "no brainer".

There's more to the equation than just attaching the handle!!
 
Dans40X said:
There's more to the equation than just attaching the handle!!

Exactly! Hence the reason for the question!

It is a new style handle and has to way over rotate to even reach the extraction cam, by which time the bolt is completely out of battery.
 
On current production OEM Rem handles-
Matching the extraction cam surface to the receiver will require the drafted angle to be laid back(less of an angle) & the finger strap to be shortened approximately .080" allowing the handle to be "TIMED" for primary extraction.
In turn the step in the handle will hit the receiver hood to LH side of the receiver extraction cam surface unless the step portion of the handle is machined also.

How much time do you want to spend on an OEM current production handle?

To finish the task-TIMING the bolt/handle into BATTERY is not rocket science.

If you attempt to TIG weld the handle to the bolt body-
Get ON & Get OFF w/ a purge!!!!
Pulling carbon w/too much heat will render yourself-JUNK!!
 
Thanks Dan for all the info. Can you explain what you are calling the draft angle? Not familliar with the terminolgy.
 
I have come up with a one step method for dealing with bolt timing and primary extraction problems. It really is simple as dirt and has worked perfectly every time. I go to the post office and put the bolt in a small fixed rate box and send it to Dan in Fairbanks. A week or so later I have it back. Problem solved. ;D
 

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