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Rem 700 308 bolt face down to 222

My beloved 222 Sako Varmint was liberated by some burglars And now I have to replace it. Unlucky for them they did not get the bolt!

I have a donor Rem 700 22-250 varmint which I need to convert to a 222. The throat is pretty shot out but I think the barrel can be re-chambered as the Knox is pretty generous.

But that is not the main issue. How easy is it to change the bolt face down to 222 diameter for a competent smith? I have a new Sako extractor.

I am thinking remove old extractor
Mount in a 4 jaw on the lathe and indicate
Turn off the old rebated face
Drill a recess in the bolt face
Silver solder in a tight fitting bush that is slightly proud of the existing metal
Re-drill the firing pin hole
Re-drill the ejector pin hole
Re-establish the correct bolt face dimensions
Install the new Sako extractor (milling cutting etc) and ejector Assy

Or is it easier to just turn off the recess and silver solder in a ring. I like the first option because you are essentially bushing the FP at the same time.

Sound about right?
 
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You are making this way too difficult! You will have a tough time setting it up in the 4-jaw, the bolt handle gets in the way. You need to turn in a 1/2-14 bolt, chuck it up with that and run it in a steady, bore out the c'bore and solder in a bushing a bit undersize, then bore it out and machine it (in the mill) for the extractor. I have done literally a hundred or more.
 
XKv

Sorry to hear about your Sako getting ripped off. There is nothing worse than a thief.

I would sell your Remington and find another Sako to buy.
The .222 and the Sako is such a well balanced combo.
The Remington 700 can shoot as well or better but its just not the same as a Sako vixen.

Hal
 
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How much did the NRA give you on the old rifle. Assuming you are a member. Perhaps just buy a new one.
 
A simpler alternative is to cut off the old bolt head and replace it with a Savage head/bolt shroud complete with extractor and ejector. The Rem. firing pin flange will require a little bit of alteration to establish correct firing pin protrusion. Machine the barrel face flat and set it back to within 1/8" of the bolt face. Chamber as usual. The bolt shroud plugs both lug raceways for safety and the sliding plate extractor is easily replaced if damaged. If you want to go back to a different case head in the future, the bolt head is easily replaced with the correct size with no other changes required.

RWO
 
Buying a new bolt is not an option. Being in South Africa all sorts of permits and ITAR stuff is required.

It's impossible to find an AI Sako Vixen Varminter. Mine was a 1984 vintage, and it was the very first rifle I possessed. The rifle was being used for the 222/223 class in our Hunting Rifle discipline, so I need a replacement real quick.

Don't know what the NRA has to do with it....? Not a member anyway.

Thanks for the advice, I just like to research stuff before I start something like this.
 
A simpler alternative is to cut off the old bolt head and replace it with a Savage head/bolt shroud complete with extractor and ejector. The Rem. firing pin flange will require a little bit of alteration to establish correct firing pin protrusion. Machine the barrel face flat and set it back to within 1/8" of the bolt face. Chamber as usual. The bolt shroud plugs both lug raceways for safety and the sliding plate extractor is easily replaced if damaged. If you want to go back to a different case head in the future, the bolt head is easily replaced with the correct size with no other changes required.

RWO
Simpler you say????
 
find a bolt...........as to the thief......You guys have a term called" floppies" it might be time to make a few floppies as a payback!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
Soft solder not silver solder, you don't want to draw the hardness back. Go easy with the heat, just enough to to get it flow.
 
You are making this way too difficult! You will have a tough time setting it up in the 4-jaw, the bolt handle gets in the way. You need to turn in a 1/2-14 bolt, chuck it up with that and run it in a steady, bore out the c'bore and solder in a bushing a bit undersize, then bore it out and machine it (in the mill) for the extractor. I have done literally a hundred or more.

This is the way to do it. Google "remington false center" to see what he is describing here. Unless I'm missing something, then he meant to say 1/2-13. I've heard of 1/2-12 used in europe and asia but not 1/2-14. rem 700s are 1/2-13.

I think SAKO is your proper solution. your description of how to install the sako is a bit cryptic to get my endorsement, too many things can go wrong. google it as suggested above. Don't overheat the bolt.

With a sako extractor, the clearance bore in the barrel should be kept tight. .705".

--Jerry
 
This is the way to do it. Google "remington false center" to see what he is describing here. Unless I'm missing something, then he meant to say 1/2-13. I've heard of 1/2-12 used in europe and asia but not 1/2-14. rem 700s are 1/2-13.

I think SAKO is your proper solution. your description of how to install the sako is a bit cryptic to get my endorsement, too many things can go wrong. google it as suggested above. Don't overheat the bolt.

With a sako extractor, the clearance bore in the barrel should be kept tight. .705".

--Jerry

You're right, simple brain fart here.
 

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