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Reloading Room Lighting

foxguy

Gold $$ Contributor
Reloading Room Lighting

Florescent or Conventional ?

I will be using a RCBS Charge Master to dispense/measure my powder drops.

Thanks
 
In my limited opinion I would go conventional pocket lamps. If you do use fluorescent then you have to install a filter inline and get the fluorescents away from the scale and any registers that might stir the air.
 
jonbearman said:
In my limited opinion I would go conventional pocket lamps. If you do use fluorescent then you have to install a filter inline and get the fluorescents away from the scale and any registers that might stir the air.
Can you tell me more about fluorescent lighting, how does it effect the scales?
 
+1 on the all LED thing. I use 4' strips of LED's that a young guy had who was starting his own electrical company. Put 5 of the 6 ft strips in the ceiling of my garage. Three under cabinets at 4ft each and have enough light to do anything I want. NO heat build up at all. No flickering, no bulb replacement for about 40,000 hours of use and very low power consumption.
 
The ballast or electric from fluorescence lights interfere with electric scales. I put a power filter on my scale to help from interference and power surges. Matt
 
Ha. I was just looking for some more lighting for my benches yesterday, Funny this should pop up right now. To add light to the incadesant lights I use in the man Cave I have two halogen work/shop lights pointed at the area I am working on. They use ALOT of power and create alot of heat. Added two new presses on my benches this springmand looks like Ill need more light in those areas so im looking for the LED track lighting to span the whole bench this time out and keep the Halegen lights for the shop.
Doing what we do, its best to spend a little money on good lighting. Dont get me wrong Ill shop around but I dont mind spending some change on good lighting.
 
Fox Guy

Read this from the Main Page.
http://www.accurateshooter.com/technical-articles/reloading/line-noise-filter-helps-reduce-scale-drift/

Lots of great info here if you do a search and look around a little. There are some tips on how to make your chargemaster more user friendly as well.

RussT
 
As for lighting, I have small cheap led lamps on bench, point to what I'm doing. Great for sorting and inspecting brass. Got the Inline Fabrications (website) led light that drops in center of Dillon toolhead for my 550B. Awesome light, about size of a 20 ga shotgun shell. Lights up the press well.

As for chargemaster, loving mine and will be doing the famous McDonald's straw trick soon. Too easy not to give a try. Helps prevent the occasional over weight charge, especially with stick powders like Varget. Lots of videos and post online, if it's not in the link above me. I'm pretty sure the owner manual says not to have the unit too close to fluorescent lighting. Or perhaps I read it online. Can adversely affect accuracy as I understand it.


Dan
 
everyone thanks for your responses, I will investigate some LED lighting as well.


RussT

Thanks for the link. I will read thru that information.
I believe I have a RF filtered power strip that was once used to protect a
computer. I will have to locate it and check it.

Foxguy
 
It is good to hear that the LED's don't appear to be interfering with electronic scales. I was afraid with all the electronics involved with them, that they would generate some type of interference.
 
There really are no "electronics"involved in LED lighting.They are just a diode and when electricity flows thru in one direction they light up.Diodes are just a switch or flow control used in electronics.
 
Waska beat me to what I was going to say. AC power does not work with LEDs, and most of them require much less than 120V. So the power has to be converted to DC and stepped down.
 
Rtheurer said:
To add light to the incadesant lights I use in the man Cave I have two halogen work/shop lights pointed at the area I am working on. They use ALOT of power and create alot of heat.

Ah yes. Halogens and heat. I have a series of scars on the back of my left hand that are the result of a halogen light, a full priming tool tray of primers, and my hand, all coming into close proximity to each other at the same time.

6 stitches for the big shrapnel wounds and a few "butterfly bandages" for the ones that were more "don't worry, the scars won't be noticable" sized "leaks". Went from "WTF was that" to "I think I need to visit the ER" in about 5 seconds all because of a nice hot halogen lamp.

LED's are all I use now. My power meter doesn't spin as fast either which leaves more $$ for powder when I can find it. 8)
 
rain164845 said:
Waska beat me to what I was going to say. AC power does not work with LEDs, and most of them require much less than 120V. So the power has to be converted to DC and stepped down.

Diodes (or bridge rectifiers) do quite nicely with a resistor in line. My LED porch lite even has a filter capacitor on it that takes a moment to charge before the LED will "fire".
 
I must be the only one not having any trouble with my fluorescent lights above my Satorious Scale....I never worry about the Chargemaster as it only throws a rough charge for me.
 
Idont think your the only one. I believe ( And some one can Please correct me on this) if your Lighting system is on another cricuit AND the ballist and such in the Light Fixture is OK you may be good to go. But as time goes by the Ballister goes south it could effect the scale. I may be out in left field on this however but I remember someone Smart telling this to me quite awhile ago.

I like the Bright LED lights however for working onthe bench.

RT
 
I think distance helps keep the Interference down. All of my lights are 7' above the table. I run 5 lights over my reloading bench and 2 are fluorescent units , with no problems on the scales. 5 lights minimizes the shadow's on the work.
 

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