Reloading pistol

[itchyTF]

I suppose this is a real basic question. Don't reload pistol much, hence the question. If a taper crimp is required, do you trim all the brass so you don't end up with over or under crimping? Seems like that would be the case if they are not trimmed. Sure would be a royal pita and time consumer.

 

[nettle]

Straight walled pistol brass typically grows shorter the more you shoot it.

 

[GLShooter]

I've never trimmed pistol cases and never had an issue with taper crimping. On straight walled revolver brass roll crimps have never been an issue either without yromming.

 

[tominboise]

I never trim pistol brass anymore. Whether roll or taper crimping. I did trim back in the 1980's, according to some of my notes, but I quit doing it long ago.
Maybe if I was shooting in a match, like long range silhouette or something, I would on a limited basis.

 

[cmysix]

taper crimp those that head space on the case mouth, roll crimp for revolver and wadcutters such as you would use in a S&W Model 52, taper crimp such as a .45 acp no need to trim, too much smoke try a little more crimp. much safer to drop powder and seat and crimp bullet and then on to the next, very easy to double charge something like .45 acp and not catch it.

 

[itchyTF]

Guess I was concerned about the "gentle" taper crimp necessary for copper plated lead bullets. Or so I read.

 

[MisterHelix]

Handloading pistol is kinda nice. You can use carbide dies so you don’t have to lube cases, and I’ve never had to trim pistol brass either.

 

[CJ6]

Guess I was concerned about the "gentle" taper crimp necessary for copper plated lead bullets. Or so I read.

I like a firm crimp whether taper or roll. I believe it helps with combustion

 

[pilediver]

I have measured my 44 mag and 45 colt brass and separated them into groups with similar OA lengths.
This saves me from having to trim and I can adjust the crimp die for the different lots, if I feel its needed.
This is a lot faster than trimming

 

[BigBolt]

To crimp and trim or not to crimp and trim has been pondered in many ways. I have been loading for 40+ years and this is what I do. In hand loading large caliber straight wall cartridges like the 44 mag 444, 45/70, 50AE, and the .500 S&W just to name a few I do crimp. How much of a crimp depends on what caliber I am loading. Typically, I also trim the large caliber cases depending on what caliber I am loading. I do not crimp or trim any of the small caliber cased. I resize all cases with a resizing die to bring them to SAAMI standards. Small calibers such as 380, 9mm and 40 S&W are the most prevalent cases to resize. What I have found if you do not resize the cased the round fits loose in the case when reloading. If the cases are resized the round when pressed fits tightly with the appropriate fit.

 

[GuitarmanNick]

I trim my once fired brass before the initial loading to insure all cases are the same length. I have not had to trim any straight walled brass on subsequent loadings and get very good consistency in my handloads. They all get the same crimp which results in accurate rounds for use in all of my toys.

There is sometimes quite a difference in cartridge length before trimming. Not enough to worry about for most, but accuracy can be affected when variances are allowed in any part of the process.

Since my rounds will be fired in a revolver or semi-auto with only one exception, they all get crimped lightly.

 

[Rwfish]

Really, it depends on what your ammo is used for. In many if not most cases your not trying to place 10rnds in 1 ragged hole so going to that kind of effort is not necessary. Crimp however is still very critical which depending on bullet type (Lead, coated, plated, jacketed) can be finicky depending on die and set up. Too tight and you can see accuracy, tumbling issues as well as pressure/velocity deviation. Similar if too loose but you also run he risk on an auto of having the bullet set back into the case when it chambers and cause a kaboom due to big overpressure spikes. On a revolver you can get the opposite effect, whereas the bullet pulls out from case slightly from recoil for each round fired. If it pulled far enough (doesn’t take much) it can contact the barrel breech causing the cylinder to lock up rotation and is also difficult to open cylinder. Had it happen on an 8 shot 9mm S&W 929 in competition, Not an enjoyable experience!!

 

[K22]

I like a firm crimp whether taper or roll. I believe it helps with combustion

You are correct according to an article published by Speer years ago proving that crimping does affect velocity, i.e., combustion.

 

[K22]

For revolvers, it depends.

I trim all virgin 38 special and 357 magnum cases initially to a uniform length then never trim them again since I am shooting modest loads. I roll crimp both and the crimp remains consistent in the cannelure for over 30 plus reloads.

However, when I shot full powder 44 magnum and 357 magnum loads, I had to trim periodically to maintain a consistent roll crimp position in the cannelures. It wasn't a lot of trimming needed, but I did have to trim every so often, the frequency I can't recall.

When I shot target 38 special loads with hollow base wadcutters, I used a taper crimp. After trimming virgin cases to a uniform length, I never had to trim them again.

I strongly believe a crimp is necessary for revolvers to provide consistent ignition and to prevent bullet movement in adjacent chambers of the cylinder especially under heavy loads.

 

[Eagle Six]

When I was pistol loading, for serious stuff I would trim to length all cases. If you don't you cannot get a consistent crimp, roll or taper. For training ammunition for classes or for my personal training I run fired cases through a Dillon 650 at a thousand an hour, drop each in a gauge before boxing them and the few that didn't pass the gauge test went in a bucket. These were 40 S&W to be fired in a Glock 22, but mostly 45 ACP to be fired in a 1911 or Glock 21. They were both taper crimp.

Is trimming required? No. If you want more precision, trimming may help.

 

[SeabeeKen]

Using a Lee factory crimp die, case length isnt an issue. The only straight wall cases I've ever seen stretch is 30 carbine

 

[Eagle Six]

I have never used the Lee Carbide Factory Crimp Die, but did read the operations manual. I don't see where it will adjust for various length cases. I also don't see where it is superior to other crimping dies other than the carbide sizing part.

 

[Rsadams]

I only load 100-200 or so at a time... You can either trim your brass all to one length or you can simply sort your cases for desired length and done... You won't need to do any of f this but once for the life of the brass which is either till it won't hold a primer or the neck splits.... You would want them all the same length for max accuracy but for just shooting it doesn't matter that much really... Just make sure the brass is the correct length according to the manual....

I have trimmed brass but now just sort it and only trim the brass that's to long after resizing of course.... What I have found is after doing everything you can think of , it is the correct bullet that the pistol actually likes is way more important... For instance you will get about 1 out 10 that's a flyer if you use plated lead bullets in Glock barrels... Their cheap but expect it to happen I have loaded tens of thousands of 9mm Berry's bullets over the years and even with the gen 5 barrels it happens... Keep in mind some of the big manufacturers use plated bullets...

Finding a good bullet at a decent price is easily possible... Hornady HAP , RMR bullets etc are both not terrible price wise but I am speaking of 9mm.... A little experimenting will find what your looking for and like rifle write down your results and once you find that load start buying and stock up on them for the next stupid thing to happen... I load cheap for practice and normally buy my duty ammo... 10mm is my exception to that rule...

 

[GuitarmanNick]

The Lee Factory Crimp dies will not adjust automatically for case length. If you want a consistent crimp, the brass needs to be the same length which is why my once fires brass gets trimmed before the initial loading.

Crimping brass that varies in length results in inconsistent crimps when using the Lee FCD.

 

[cmysix]

Guess I was concerned about the "gentle" taper crimp necessary for copper plated lead bullets. Or so I read.

crimp till you wrinkle/flake the plating, then back off a little.