Reloading issue

[onelastshot]

I'm reloading 9mm Luger. I resized the brass and primed them as well. I've got the expander rod in the press and I'm opening up the mouth slightly so it will accept the bullet. When I expand the mouth opening the side of the piece of brass ends up with a slight crease on the wall of the brass. I'd describe it as a slight bulge on the sidewall of the brass. It's happening to two out of three pieces of brass. I have no idea as to why the side wall of the brass is getting creased. Any help appreciated.

 

[JMayo]

Expander die ? I've not used an expander rod.
I found that if I didn't stick the bullet in pretty straight it would drive one side of the case out as it straightened itself.

 

[spclark]

When I expand the mouth opening the side of the piece of brass ends up with a slight crease on the wall of the brass. I'd describe it as a slight bulge on the sidewall of the brass.

Using a Lyman Type M expander?

That bulge happens when the expander is screwed down too far, it’s being forced into your case necks too much.

The ‘working’ part of that die is the radiused end, not anything up farther.

Try backing the die off a turn (maybe more!) from where it’s set now, see how that affects your case mouths when seating. You want to strive for a very slight ‘belling’ of case mouths, not stretching cases to a larger ID beyond maybe the first 0.030” or so.

Having cases all the same length after sizing will help too. (I gave up sizing 9’s soon after I bought my first one. Darn cases are too small for fat fingers & old eyes to mess with for long. Factory ammo’s cheap enough if you don’t spray’n’pray.)

 

[Pwc]

Is the brass "seated" in the back of the shell holder? Is there a piece of junk in the way?
If it is only happening on one side, is the xpander straight with the mouth of the brass? Is it belled or just opened up? Over belled; back out the xpander.

 

[onelastshot]

Thanks for the replies. I think the expander is screwed down too far which is causing it to be over belled. I'll try backing it off a couple of turns and see if that corrects it. Thanks.

 

[AJC]

Thanks for the replies. I think the expander is screwed down too far which is causing it to be over belled. I'll try backing it off a couple of turns and see if that corrects it. Thanks.

Are you starting full out and working in a 1/4 turn until you can get the bullet in the case. I do batch and I only bell it just enough. I have had to rebell them from contracting over night with a temperature change. Less is more.

 

[cw308]

I switched to the M die as spclark posted , I reload 45ACP the Lyman expander M die allows the bullet to sit straight on the case by adding more like a level step rather than a bell without over expanding . Works perfect , check it out .

 

[Rsadams]

Yup , as stated , you only want enough bell so the bullet can enter the case without shaving it.... Then you only want to add enough crimp to remove that belling.... If useing plated bullets such as Berry's bullets they recommend a very very light crimp , but to much and you will have accuracy issues.... If your useing the Lee factory crimp die I use about a quarter turn and that's it... It's easy to WAY over bell or over crimp.... If your useing a normal FMJ all you need is to remove the belling....

I use very little belling , so little that with some bullets or even some cases especially if work hardened I have to adjust the belling. As long as the bullet sits in the bell that's enough....And yes you need to try and get it as straight as possible so it doesn't bulge the brass on one side , although unless it's real bad I haven't seen a big decrease in accuracy , especially in range ammo....

 

[ebb]

If you are talking about belling the mouth to allow a bullet to be seated, I do it so little I have to feel it to know it has been done (all most invisible).

 

[spclark]

If you are talking about belling the mouth to allow a bullet to be seated, I do it so little I have to feel it to know it has been done (all most invisible).

Exactly.

You can measure it with calipers, or see it when you roll a case against a known-flat surface. The goal is to enlarge case mouth ID just enough to ease base of chosen projectile in as seating begins, not to stretch case mouth brass beyond that.

And paying attention to how projectile is sitting - straight up is best, not canted - as seater approaches makes a big difference in how much ID enlargement is needed too.

 

[ebb]

Lay a little steel ruler up against the case to see if it is flared at the case mouth.

 

[T-shooter]

Just like Rsadams said. Just enough crimp to remove the bell. It's not actually crimping the bullet, just straightening the case.