• This Forum is for adults 18 years of age or over. By continuing to use this Forum you are confirming that you are 18 or older. No content shall be viewed by any person under 18 in California.

Reloading for Accurate Rifle

baddarryl said:
I just read

https://www.accurateshooter.com/technical-articles/reloading/complete-precision-case-prep/

Wow that sure is a mouthful. Seeing all those precision instruments however exciting made me a little nervous. How do I get started in this endeavor? I do have a Lee Turret press and few things for pistol, but this is a whole other animal. I can't bite it all off at once. Thank you.
Click to expand...

Welcome for the forum!

The question is what kind of accuracy are you trying to achieve? A double rifle or lever gun with iron sights that shoots 2" groups at 100 yds would be considered accurate. However, a long range yd BR gun that won't shoot 3" groups at 1000 yds would be considered just so so.

On this forum you will find shooters who reload for all levels of precision and accuracy. There are different methods to get to each level. And although BR rifles needs the highest level of precision and accuracy, much of what we do for BR won't help a typical big rifle too much.

So what what level of accuracy and precision are you looking for?
 
I am currently a not very active Instructor in Training at Project Appleseed and shoot service rifle and Garand with slings. I want to get into CMP/NRA High Power more locally and to the 600 yard events to start with. I will start by developing loads for a Rock River National Match A2 that I just got. Thank you.
 
so just start collecting bits and pcs, a little at a time.
do not buy thinking you will upgrade later, buy right the first time.
Hornady case and bullet seating measurement tools.
I would save for a charge master lite for high power...fast and accurate enough for high power.
full length neck bushing dies
which lee turret, some are too light weight for consistency.
a nice mittutoyo 6" digital caliper
 
Like Mr Smith, said start getting a little at a time. I would use your Lee Turret Press and:

Redding or Forster Competition seater and a small base full length sizer die.

Frankford Arsenal or RCBS primer seater

The Hornady COL case and inserts

A good set of calipers. I now prefer Mitituyo digital calipers but used dial calipers for years

A Chargemaster Lite would work for a while, but eventually you would like the speed and precision of an AutoThrow/AutoTricker on an A&D FXI scale.

Disregard anything I have said that a Highpower competitor disagrees with.
 
For the NRA/CMP matches you don't need to have bench rest rifle accuracy. The x-ring is big enough so the average joe with the average rifle can compete just fine. Get some Sierra 69 or 77 Match Kings and Varget powder and find your load and go have fun. Learning how to read the wind and shoot consistent from positions is where you need to spend most of your time. This comes only from being on the range in all conditions. I used to shoot this discipline with M1 Garands and M1A1 rifles. At my age now it I could get into the "doughnut" sitting position it would be "Hello Life Alert, Help I have gotten into position and I can't get up".
 
Couple of additional tools* that won't break the bank but will help you develop precision reloads:

1. A quality caliber - I like digital but many prefer electronic - both work. Buy it on line at Amazon - much cheaper and a large selection.

2. Bump gauge - Several options, I like the Widden Gun Work caliber specific gauges, about $16 each but the other brands work too.

Items 1 and 2 above will help you size your cases properly with the appropriate amount of shoulder bump.

3. COL measurement tool - I like the Frankfort Arsenal tool - it's easy to use, cheap and reliable. This will help you experiment with different seating depths. Other brands work well too.

4. Depending on your knowledge of rifle reloading, the Lyman Reloading Handbook is one of the best resources I ever saw for the beginner. Read it - study it.

5. If have questions don't hesitate to post on this site.


* Assume you have the basics, i.e press, dies, powder scale, priming tool, case trimmer, loading block to hold cases, case prep tools, case lube.
 
Best is to get a reloading manual like the Lyman 50th edition or even the Speer or Hornady manuals are good at explaining the basics.

It might be a lot to swallow but doesn't have to be if you keep things simple at the beginning and add more tools as you progress.

Get RCBS dies and set them up as per instructions that come with them.

Whatever you wanna load, first search what are the most popular powders for that cartridge and bullet combo.
Load the stuff to book spec till you get more comfortable and have a better feel for things.

Press.

Shell holder

Dies

Digital or Dial Caliper

Scale (digital or beam is OK for the beginner... upgrade later)

Brass

Primers

Powder

Bullets

Usually you shouldn't have to trim the brass for the first handful of loadings so no need to spend any money on trimming tool yet.

Once you can load to book spec, then you can venture into more advanced handloading procedures.

Fired brass can be hand cleaned with a rag if you don't have a brass tumbler to clean the brass. Just squirt a cleaning solution on the rag and wipe the neck, shoulders and body of the brass.
Inside the brass being clean is irrelevant.
 
F1 or MotoGP pilots did not start racing in the top class with priceless machines. It's ALWAYS BEST to start simple, small and basic. Then work your way up.

There is not one MotoGP or F1 racer that didn't start with tiny machines and only progressed incrementally when they outgrew them by being able to squeeze every last bit out of the machine.

Just like we don't take Advanced math University courses before doing all the lower grades first.

Same thing applies to everything we do in life, including handloading match grade ammunition.
 
Spend a little time at the matches you intend to shoot. Get to know a few of the shooters. You will find most of the people you meet will bend over backwards to help you out. You will find a mentor who will give valuable advice as you start out on this new adventure.
The brass prep article is a tsunami of info. It is far beyond what you need to start. The best reloads are not as important as the experience shooting you will acquire with time investment on the range. As you get the shooting experience under your belt the improvement in knowing how to develop your reloads will come.
 
jvw2008 said:
Spend a little time at the matches you intend to shoot. Get to know a few of the shooters. You will find most of the people you meet will bend over backwards to help you out. You will find a mentor who will give valuable advice as you start out on this new adventure.
The brass prep article is a tsunami of info. It is far beyond what you need to start. The best reloads are not as important as the experience shooting you will acquire with time investment on the range. As you get the shooting experience under your belt the improvement in knowing how to develop your reloads will come.
Click to expand...

I had been in touch with someone and planned to do that until the Covid19 mess.
 
baddarryl said:
I have a cheap dial caliper from Harbor Freight. It feels solid but something I should up grade?
Click to expand...
If it's good and repeatable within .001, then no.

If you don't mind spending $110, get the Mitutoyo 6" digital.

Of course there are options anywhere in between, but the Mitu is truly amazing quality for just $100.
 
@baddarryl, like @INTJ said, precision loading is all relative to your expectation and the type of shooting you do. I shoot F-Open competitively and some of the article (written in 2003) is outdated and does not produce tighter groups for my discipline.

like @jvw2008 said, go hang out at a few matches and be curious.

Regardless of discipline, there are a few cardinal rules. Consistency in reloading equipment and components, neck tension (interference fit, neck hardness, bullet/brass neck surface consistency), and seating depth.

Over time you will find tools that aid you in addressing each area of your reloading and/or save you time. IMO, focus on producing consistent ES/SD numbers first, as that will be the telltale sign that 1. You have dialed in your reloading process and 2. That you have dialed in that particular barrel.

Welcome to the rabbit hole!
 
rsmithsr50 said:
NEVER DO THAT PERIOD
it is a lawyer cop out setting that provides very poor brass life.
just ask here when ready, well not from that guy.
Click to expand...

This fella is a beginner and needs to learn how to load ammo first before doing anything else. One step at a time.
Advanced reloading might be easy for us, but the less he has to think about the less likely he will make a mistake.

Once he knows the basics, the other stuff will be easy to learn. But having to learn everything all at once makes it harder.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Upgrades & Donations

This Forum's expenses are primarily paid by member contributions. You can upgrade your Forum membership in seconds. Gold and Silver members get unlimited FREE classifieds for one year. Gold members can upload custom avatars.


Click Upgrade Membership Button ABOVE to get Gold or Silver Status.

You can also donate any amount, large or small, with the button below. Include your Forum Name in the PayPal Notes field.


To DONATE by CHECK, or make a recurring donation, CLICK HERE to learn how.

Classified Ads

Forum statistics

Threads
165,920
Messages
2,206,279
Members
79,217
Latest member
NF1E

Share This Page

Back
Top