Reloading bench. What's your one upgrade?
- Thread starter Kevin1990
- Start date
Lots of good advice on equipment so I won't repeat.
Instead, I'll take a different path. You didn't mention your current precision level of both bench and practical performance (F Class positions) shooting but in addition to equipment, you may want to concentrate on marksmanship skills especially for the practical shooting positions.
At least for me, once I got to where I wanted to be equipment / load wise off the bench, the most significant improvements I achieved in my practical shooting was mastering the fundamentals including the mental shooting aspects in that position. Lots of structured range practices and keeping a comprehensive range book greatly helped me shoot better.
Instead, I'll take a different path. You didn't mention your current precision level of both bench and practical performance (F Class positions) shooting but in addition to equipment, you may want to concentrate on marksmanship skills especially for the practical shooting positions.
At least for me, once I got to where I wanted to be equipment / load wise off the bench, the most significant improvements I achieved in my practical shooting was mastering the fundamentals including the mental shooting aspects in that position. Lots of structured range practices and keeping a comprehensive range book greatly helped me shoot better.
SEM
Gold $$ Contributor
check with LEE they did may still make undersized mandrels I have several I bought for 22cal
Emmett Dibble
Gold $$ Contributor
Flat mount or strong mount with changeable plates for different presses, vise, barrel vise…. Your welcome. 
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I think Labradar would be my next purchase if I didn't have it already.
Excellent advice & opinions in this thread. I agree with K22 & his conclusion, which is the same approach I finally came to. I took a close look at improving my bench equipment, set-up & shooting technique. A better rest with the proper bags were a big improvement for me. You have all the reloading equipment to produce good ammo, it seems like most additions to your reloading kit would be for convenience. Since you enjoy reloading (like I do) my suggestion is to look at the chores you least like about your process & look at ways to improve those.
What the man said. ^^^
centershot
Silver $$ Contributor
Bought a Forster Co-Ax press, reluctantly, and it was one of the best moves I have made. The only pain with it is I shoot .223 size ammo and changing the shell plate is a pain.
I still use a beam scale. Getting it to eye level is a must. Also super glued a fine wire to the arm from a brush and it makes reading it a lot easier!
I still use a beam scale. Getting it to eye level is a must. Also super glued a fine wire to the arm from a brush and it makes reading it a lot easier!
I think the most important reloading tool you can have is between your ears. Read every thing you can on the subject, learn what works and what doesn't from people who are winning. I am convinced most of the tools we buy are up to the task. A lot of the stuff we do is urban legend and internet myth. Do you think Bart would let me sit in front of his bench while he loads?
Yep, get a motor home.
dcali
Bullet Maker
It's a bit of the wrong question. What you want is the most efficient and effective loading process. Often, buying gear does nothing to achieve that.
With that said, the most useful/impactful pieces of loading gear I've bought have been an autotrickler and gear to load at the range (a partner press for me). Somewhat related - good, benchrest style wind flags. The autotrickler is for speed and not having to think about charge weight being correct. It's a major quality of life improvement. Loading at the range, or at the very least seating bullets at the range, is a tremendous time and money saver. Developing accurate loads without wind flags is a fools errand. You need them if you want to dial in the highest levels of accuracy. If you're aiming for reliable sub 0.3 MOA loads, you're wasting your time and ammo without them. At the very least get some surveyors tape and posts to tie it to.
Equally important is what *not* to do and buy. Consider these as potentially in that category:
-Neck turning (Consider if you need to. Why? It's likely you don't).
-Cleaning brass (this is totally unnecessary for precision rifles.)
-Annealing (like neck turning, do you *really* need to? Why?)
-Pointing bullets (See above - do you need to? Are you at a level to appreciate it? Can you get by sorting by OAL or doing nothing at all?).
-Using pseudoscientific methods like OBT or Saterlee. These don't work, and are a waste of ammunition. Learn the fundamentals of load development - seating depth, charge weight, and ladders.
-Not appreciating statistical variation. You don't need a phd and a spreadsheet. But expecting different results from the same test is *not* the definition of insanity. It's the definition of reality.
With that said, the most useful/impactful pieces of loading gear I've bought have been an autotrickler and gear to load at the range (a partner press for me). Somewhat related - good, benchrest style wind flags. The autotrickler is for speed and not having to think about charge weight being correct. It's a major quality of life improvement. Loading at the range, or at the very least seating bullets at the range, is a tremendous time and money saver. Developing accurate loads without wind flags is a fools errand. You need them if you want to dial in the highest levels of accuracy. If you're aiming for reliable sub 0.3 MOA loads, you're wasting your time and ammo without them. At the very least get some surveyors tape and posts to tie it to.
Equally important is what *not* to do and buy. Consider these as potentially in that category:
-Neck turning (Consider if you need to. Why? It's likely you don't).
-Cleaning brass (this is totally unnecessary for precision rifles.)
-Annealing (like neck turning, do you *really* need to? Why?)
-Pointing bullets (See above - do you need to? Are you at a level to appreciate it? Can you get by sorting by OAL or doing nothing at all?).
-Using pseudoscientific methods like OBT or Saterlee. These don't work, and are a waste of ammunition. Learn the fundamentals of load development - seating depth, charge weight, and ladders.
-Not appreciating statistical variation. You don't need a phd and a spreadsheet. But expecting different results from the same test is *not* the definition of insanity. It's the definition of reality.
hpshooter
Gold $$ Contributor
Like the Royal lube also. 25-30 6.5x47 cases in a gallon zip lock bag, quick shot of the lube into the bag, seal the bag and knead the bag like dough and start sizing. Cases are de-primed prior to sizing and I use bushing dies and don't expand the necks.
Lots of good advice here (Particularly the between the ears comment).
I saw only two mentions of a chronograph.
I consider a chronograph essential in load development/consistency.
But that, and everything else, is a distant second to holes on the paper.
I saw only two mentions of a chronograph.
I consider a chronograph essential in load development/consistency.
But that, and everything else, is a distant second to holes on the paper.
sqrlgtr
Gold $$ Contributor
Concentricity gauge so you can tell how you and your dies are doing. I hear a lot of people on here say they aren't necessary, but I like to keep an eye on everything. I use the Century 21 myself and it has helped identify problems with my setup before. Added the V4 Auto Trickler to the FnD 120 scale and really like it, wasn't necessary but sure is faster and convenient. Was throwing light and trickling up with the Little Dandy Trickler before this.
Remember with every one buying high dollar scales, custom bullets, custom rifles and rests and tuners along with other stuff the playing field is getting level. Which means it’s coming back to the shooter
just my $0.02
just my $0.02
If I may suggest getting a small press like the RCBS Partner. The reason is the smaller press has less compound leverage so when seating the bullet into the cartridge case neck, any variation in neck tension is a more tactile feel than with a larger press. That's been my MO for the last twenty five years. It helps me segregate any cartridge that could be a potential flyer. I also use the Partner press for applying a factory type crimp with Lee crimp die for 223 Rem..
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